Dealership doesn't want to change CO until I uncork?

Those of you in California should know that if the bike is unmodified, it is actually illegal for the dealer to adjust CO outside of California Air Resource Board (CARB) standards, which is likely to be necessary to correct the problem.  Once an outside party has modified the bike, it's out of compliance, and then the dealer's activity is not what made it like that, so they're off the hook.

I actually have the knob turned all the way up. Still no good.

Don't get me started on the government and the EPA. I wonder how many trail bikes riding a year equate to the emissions that result from the Presidents trips to Martha's Vineyard and his frequent golfing getaways.

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

 

What you have the idle knob all the way up?  No way, you would be at 3000+ RPM's. If you have the programer plug it in and set the RPM's to 2000.

You are turning the knob counter-clockwise to increase the idle, correct?

I know I am long winded but yes I stated with the stock ECU the knob had to be turned all they way up until it stopped in order for it to idle. And even then it would just die at a stoplight.

When I installed the Race ECU the issue went away and I was able to turn down the idle by ear. I have the tuner so I will set it properly when I get home.

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

Something is wrong here. With the stock ECU and screw and muffler the only mod it should idle just fine. There are some people here that, that was all they used while waiting for the comp ECU's to get in stock.

Something is wrong here. With the stock ECU and screw and muffler the only mod it should idle just fine. There are some people here that, that was all they used while waiting for the comp ECU's to get in stock.

I don't get it either. I had another 2012 a few months ago that ran OK with stock ECU and peashooter and snorkel removed. It just had a hard time starting when it got hot.

But the new 2012 I have would NOT idle at all with my stock ECU. I still have the previous bikes stock ECU so I might try swapping them in to see if it was defective.

Weird.

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

Strange. Mine lights pretty reliably if you take up the slack in the throttle cable then twist just a fuzz more then hit the button. It's hard to start off throttle. Will start in gear, hot stalled, 1-2 tries using this method. I let the pump stop before hitting the button again.

Exactly. One of the mechanics at Yamaha told me to do this, you just blip the throttle about 1/8 of a turn before you start it. My bike usually won't start the first time cold, but always the second and almost always the first when hot, when I follow this procedure. I have found that without blipping the throttle before turning it over, the bike is much harder to start. I also make sure I don't hear the pump anymore before starting, too.

Okay well didn't mean to kill the damn thread.. Has anyone tried this throttle blip strategy? Only one person here that I know of uses it, anyone else tried it? If so, did it help at all? Very curious to know if this is the solution to y'alls problems, it sure makes a difference in my bike.

 I cannot see why a 1/8 turn blip would do a thing. This is a fuel injected bike there is no accelerator pump. Maybe it helps reset the throttle position sensor? There are a bunch of tried methods. I think each one changes the conditions a little that may or may not help the bike start better. But of all them #6 works the best. I have my CO bumped to 13. 

 

1. use the choke.

 

2. just barely open the throttle.

 

3. open the throttle fully and crank the motor over once or twice first.

 

4. use a quick bump of the start button.

 

5. put the bike in neutral.

 

6. bump the CEO level.

I cannot see why a 1/8 turn blip would do a thing. This is a fuel injected bike there is no accelerator pump. Maybe it helps reset the throttle position sensor? There are a bunch of tried methods. I think each one changes the conditions a little that may or may not help the bike start better. But of all them #6 works the best. I have my CO bumped to 13.

1. use the choke.

2. just barely open the throttle.

3. open the throttle fully and crank the motor over once or twice first.

4. use a quick bump of the start button.

5. put the bike in neutral.

6. bump the CEO level.

Still haven't bumped up CO but bike has not stalled since I installed Race ECU. It is harder to start after it gets warmed up though.

I crank two revolutions WOT. Release throttle.

Then it fires up first hit.

Even works in gear with clutch pulled in.

I still don't like having to do it. I want to be able to light it up the first bump.

It can get you killed or injured if you stall in traffic and can't restart it quickly.

Also changed countershaft sprocket to 14/50 for a drop in RPM's on the road. Still pulls the front tire up in 5th here's another wheelie video

with new gearing.

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

Edited by revelc

5th gear wheelie is impressive

Long 5th gear wheelie....how to sieze your cam....... :naughty:

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