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Kennethyz450f

Fuel Mixture Question 06 450f

12 posts in this topic

Can someone tell me the stock 2006 yz450f Pilot screw number of turns out. what is the factory setting for the pilot screw? I don't have my manual at the moment. Installing Tusk fuel mixture screw. I've heard 2 turns is the stock setting?

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In that range will work.  The stock setting doesn't mean much because of minor changes in the shape of the end of the screw.  Start with two turns and trim it out til it's right.

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thanks


In that range will work.  The stock setting doesn't mean much because of minor changes in the shape of the end of the screw.  Start with two turns and trim it out til it's right.

What do you think about tusk? are they any good? thinking of getting a tusk clutch kit

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Tusk is a line of re-branded parts made by a variety of vendors at widely divergent quality levels.  Some say the clutches are OK, but I haven't found them to be satisfactory in terms of overall performance or longevity.  IMO. OEM Yamaha is your best bang for the buck.

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Tusk is a line of re-branded parts made by a variety of vendors at widely divergent quality levels.  Some say the clutches are OK, but I haven't found them to be satisfactory in terms of overall performance or longevity.  IMO. OEM Yamaha is your best bang for the buck.

 

GreyRacer: If I am going to install a high compression piston in my 450 do i need new valvesprings? Im looking at putting in gytr performance camshafts which require a high compression piston. 

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Valve spring upgrades are required as a function of the camshaft profile, not the compression ratio.  If the cams require upgraded springs, then you need them in order to use the cams.  Incidentally, the GYT-R camshafts do not require the use of higher than stock compression.

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Valve spring upgrades are required as a function of the camshaft profile, not the compression ratio.  If the cams require upgraded springs, then you need them in order to use the cams.  Incidentally, the GYT-R camshafts do not require the use of higher than stock compression.

 I pulled this off Motosport.com where they are advertising the gytr camshafts:

Maximize your top-end horsepower with this Performance Cam Kit.

  • Ground to exact specifications using special CNC cam-grinding machines.
  • Special billet-alloy construction provides consistent machined surfaces for increased durability.
  • Cams come with durable stock cam gears and de-comp installed, degreed-in, and ready to install.
  • No costly core changes or deposits, or exchange programs that can add to downtime.
  • Designed for use in modified engines equipped with a**** high compression piston.*****

Installation note: This accessory is restricted to closed-course use.

So your saying I could install the gytr camshafts directly without modifying any other parts on the bike? Im just wondering why motosport says it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-GYTR-Performance-Cams-for-YZ450F-2006-2009-2S2-E21F0-V0-00-/281395026627?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

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Also Greyracer another question for you i see you have an 06 as well. What did you find for weakness with the stock bike. Any parts i should swap already read that the chain is crap and ive already done steering bearing job. should i be pulling the rear suspension linkage to inspect? bike has aprox 100 hours

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It says:

Designed for use in modified engines equipped with a high compression piston.

 
"Designed for..."  Never says the high compression piston is a requirement.  All that means is that they were made with compatibility with high compression engines in mind.  The same things that benefit a 13.5:1 engine will benefit a 12:1 too.
 
 

What did you find for weakness with the stock bike. Any parts i should swap already read that the chain is crap and ive already done steering bearing job. should i be pulling the rear suspension linkage to inspect? bike has aprox 100 hours

The OEM chain was indeed a poor piece, but that's probably not an issue at one hundred hours. The rear linkage originally suffered the same marginality of lube that the steering head did.  The linkage doesn't have any of the sealing problems that the steering did (and does), but in muddy environments where the bike is apt to be washed frequently (or worse,  not washed), all kinds of crap can get up into the bearings.  Like any other maintenance item in a bike whose first 100 hours you really know nothing about, it should just be looked at, at least to know in what condition it currently is.

 

Intriguingly, the '06 had the same stopper arm wheel /bearing failures as the '14 is supposed to be having:

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/420313-shifting-problems-on-my-06-450f-index-lever/#entry4050685

 

Neither of the two I've owned have had this problem.  Certain '06's had the drive side bearing pockets loosen and/or fail. Again, that defect should show up in well under a hundred.

 

Beyond that, the '06 can only be faulted for its handling when used on MX tracks.  The suspension is as good as it gets, or easily can be, and it makes a great desert bike, but it takes its own sort of knack to be fast on an MX course with the bike.  "Sluggish" is a fair way to describe it, with a tendency to understeer unpredictably.  Fast guys on these ride them a lot like small bore two strokes, forcing them to steer with the rear wheel. Instead of trying to manage the front end push, they force the bike to oversteer and manage that.

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It says:

 

"Designed for..."  Never says the high compression piston is a requirement.  All that means is that they were made with compatibility with high compression engines in mind.  The same things that benefit a 13.5:1 engine will benefit a 12:1 too.

 

 

The OEM chain was indeed a poor piece, but that's probably not an issue at one hundred hours. The rear linkage originally suffered the same marginality of lube that the steering head did.  The linkage doesn't have any of the sealing problems that the steering did (and does), but in muddy environments where the bike is apt to be washed frequently (or worse,  not washed), all kinds of crap can get up into the bearings.  Like any other maintenance item in a bike whose first 100 hours you really know nothing about, it should just be looked at, at least to know in what condition it currently is.

 

Intriguingly, the '06 had the same stopper arm wheel /bearing failures as the '14 is supposed to be having:

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/420313-shifting-problems-on-my-06-450f-index-lever/#entry4050685

 

Neither of the two I've owned have had this problem.  Certain '06's had the drive side bearing pockets loosen and/or fail. Again, that defect should show up in well under a hundred.

 

Beyond that, the '06 can only be faulted for its handling when used on MX tracks.  The suspension is as good as it gets, or easily can be, and it makes a great desert bike, but it takes its own sort of knack to be fast on an MX course with the bike.  "Sluggish" is a fair way to describe it, with a tendency to understeer unpredictably.  Fast guys on these ride them a lot like small bore two strokes, forcing them to steer with the rear wheel. Instead of trying to manage the front end push, they force the bike to oversteer and manage that.

 

Thanks for the advice, I have had this bike since it had 2 hours on it. They guy I bought it from took it to the track once. I've put the 100 hours on it over the last year and a half. i traveled with my bike in the back in the rain for a couple hours and ever since then the steering started to bite and got worse and worse so i bought an all balls kit and re did the steering bearings. I have the stock chain on now and it is so badly beat that when i'm just starting out in first the chain slap is so bad it hits my tire. should i pull the linkage or do you think id be ok to ride another season? its not squeaking or anything

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thanks

What do you think about tusk? are they any good? thinking of getting a tusk clutch kit

Don't buy the Tusk clutch. I did it (against Gray's advice) and it swells and shrinks so much that it never feels right. There is no 'finesse' to it at all that you need on technical sections at low speed. Can't find neutral half the time.

 

I bought an OEM and will be replacing it tomorrow after two rides. I found it on eBay brand new for $97.00 plates, friction, springs and gasket all GENUINE Yamaha. I paid $50.00 for the Tusk! Trust me, go OEM or Hinson. If you insist on trying Tusk, you can have mine with 2 rides on it for $20 bucks SHIPPED!

Edited by writebrian

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Don't buy the Tusk clutch. I did it (against Gray's advice) and it swells and shrinks so much that it never feels right. There is no 'finesse' to it at all that you need on technical sections at low speed. Can't find neutral half the time.

 

I bought an OEM and will be replacing it tomorrow after two rides. I found it on eBay brand new for $87.00 plates, friction, springs and gasket all GENUINE Yamaha. I paid $50.00 for the Tusk! Trust me, go OEM or Hinson. If you insist on trying Tusk, you can have mine with 2 rides for $20 bucks SHIPPED!

thanks man

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