front brake adjustment

I'm a bit frustrated with my front brake feel. I have to pull it all the way in for the front brake to really work and it has to be pulled in a good inch to inch and a half for it to start grabbing at all. 

 

I've went through all the norms of looking at the pads (they're new), bled the lines and adjusted the lever. Still, with going through everything it still has a "dead" zone of nearly an inch. I'd like it to have dang near immediate feel so i don't have to pull it so far in. I usually ride with a finger on the front brake lever so having to pull it all the way in for longer races gets pretty annoying. 

 

Has anyone else had issues with the front brake feel on the newer WR's? (2012+)

Don't know the pads in a 2012. Probably the same. I replaced my 2007 with Sintered brake pads and made a very noticeable difference. I don't have to apply nearly the pressure as stock pads and they were cheap. going to last me two years of riding. They heat up fast for better stopping, never had an issue with long downhills!

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/764/24487/Neutron-Brake-Pad-Sintered-Metal

300 reviews almost 5 star from riders, hard to beat for 10.00.

Edited by RMK800

Don't know the pads in a 2012. Probably the same. I replaced my 2007 with Sintered brake pads and made a very noticeable difference. I don't have to apply nearly the pressure as stock pads and they were cheap. going to last me two years of riding. They heat up fast for better stopping, never had an issue with long downhills!

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/764/24487/Neutron-Brake-Pad-Sintered-Metal

300 reviews almost 5 star from riders, hard to beat for 10.00.

I'm currently using the EBC sintered as they've worked quite well on my past bikes. I still ordered the ones you linked. You can't beat 10 bucks and i have a bunch of Rocky Mountain ATV/MC gift cards from local races :)

If you have an 'empty' throw before feeling resistance, that is not a 'brake' issue that is a 'lever postion' issue, which you can solve by using an adstable lever, aka ACV, Sunline, etc., and then taking the slack out of the actuator on the lever that compresses the Master Cylinder.

When stationary, does the brake firm up sooner on the second pull?

Edited by Spiritwalker2222

When stationary, does the brake firm up sooner on the second pull?

Nope. It's the same feeling from the first pull to the last in any long race. 

 

 

If you have an 'empty' throw before feeling resistance, that is not a 'brake' issue that is a 'lever postion' issue, which you can solve by using an adstable lever, aka ACV, Sunline, etc., and then taking the slack out of the actuator on the lever that compresses the Master Cylinder.

I use a Sunline V1. I've adjusted it all the way to compress the master cylinder. When looking at the position of the master cylinder when pulling in the brake, there's a lot of free play as well. Maybe it's an issue with the master cylinder that i never noticed when i bought the bike. 

Nope. It's the same feeling from the first pull to the last in any long race. 

 

 

I use a Sunline V1. I've adjusted it all the way to compress the master cylinder. When looking at the position of the master cylinder when pulling in the brake, there's a lot of free play as well. Maybe it's an issue with the master cylinder that i never noticed when i bought the bike. 

 

I think you nailed it. The MC needs rebuilding. It should have zero play if you want it.

First, make sure the master piston is able to full retract (,eaning when the lever is out, the masters piston is fully extended). First check I'd do is remove the master cylinder cover. Slowly squeeze the lever. You should see a spurt of brake fluid from the bleed hole then immediately feel the system pressure. No squirt means the system is clogged of the master is not extending.

If you feel pressure but it does not increase until the very end, you need to confirm the caliper is sliding on its' sliders (and the caliper piston moves smoothly) and not hanging. You should not be able to move the brake pads with the master extended and there should be a slight drag on the rotor.

Next a good bleeding

Mext, if the brake line is more than a few years old, replace it.

my experience: after bleeding, rebleeding and bleeding again, rebuilt the master cyl. Little better but still not comfortable enough.... took out the caliper piston and found a damaged seal. Replaced and it runs almost perfect.

my experience: after bleeding, rebleeding and bleeding again, rebuilt the master cyl. Little better but still not comfortable enough.... took out the caliper piston and found a damaged seal. Replaced and it runs almost perfect.

First, make sure the master piston is able to full retract (,eaning when the lever is out, the masters piston is fully extended). First check I'd do is remove the master cylinder cover. Slowly squeeze the lever. You should see a spurt of brake fluid from the bleed hole then immediately feel the system pressure. No squirt means the system is clogged of the master is not extending.

If you feel pressure but it does not increase until the very end, you need to confirm the caliper is sliding on its' sliders (and the caliper piston moves smoothly) and not hanging. You should not be able to move the brake pads with the master extended and there should be a slight drag on the rotor.

Next a good bleeding

Mext, if the brake line is more than a few years old, replace it.

 

Thank you for the good info. Only two races left for the year so i'll probably just "deal" with it for now. This will definitely be the list for the winter tear down to re-grease all the bearings

 

On a side note, this is my first WR. In the past i've MX'd 250F's and i had to go in and adjust the valves every winter because they were noticeably out of spec. I'm fairly easy on the WR as i never ping it off the rev limiter as i often did on the 250F's screaming around an MX track. 

 

Bike runs flawlessly. Sounds/Runs great and starts hot/cold/whatever. Some people say you should go in and check the valve clearance once a year and others say that if the bike is running good then why risk messing it up by pulling it apart? What are your guys thoughts? To me, if i do go in and check the valves, i'll probably just replace the titanium ones with the steel ones. 

I do a valve clearance check every 2nd or 3rd oil change. Takes 30 minutes and it is not disruptive, esp. if you do not remove the rubber valve cover gasket (keeping the half moons sealed). If I am going to have valve issues, I want to know about it well before they become a real issue.

Once a year/every 100 run time hours, a leak down test at a minimum.

I used to do a few valve checks per season until I found 99% of the time they were still in spec. Now, it's part of my annual winter maintenance plan. 8 years on my 06, and have had 2 valve shims swapped. I am close to 10,000 miles now. starting to exhibit slight difficult starting, so I imagine I have ONE slightly tight.

I have had two (so far) get to where the brakes get like you describe. Most recent one was on an '03. They had the old six-eight inch longer front brake line so were even worse. Found the fix for them was a new Teflon lined stainless braid brake line. You can have them custom made at pressure hose shops for about ONE THIRD the price of a brand new dealer part, in most cases they make em up while you wait!, and they get you your good lever feel back.

Like mentioned above, the first sign you are going to need a valve adjustment is almost always a bike getting hard to start.

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