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Goforaride

Rekluse exp 3.0 Or flywheel weight?

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I Ride a 2014 yz450f. I just did my first xc race and I loved it. The issue I had was stalling. 9.5 mile lap and I averaged 5 stalls per lap. I ride sand, track and now I plan to ride a lot more Xc type terrain. I don't have a lot of spare cash so I'm seeking advice on which item to get first.

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The auto clutch is more effective against stalling than the flywheel weight is, but both will improve the matter.  Adding weight to the flywheel of the EFI bikes is not quite as dramatic as doing the same to the older models because the EFI flywheel is considerably larger and heavier than the tiny little things that came with a carb.

 

The EXP 3.0 is really more suited to recreational riders and occasional racers, and not so much for very heavy use.  I recommend the Z-Start Pro or the Core EXP for more serious stuff.

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Well I consider myself mostly a rec rider at this point. I will probably do 3 gp races and 2 or 3 xc per year. Would the 3.0 hold up to that?

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Probably.  The clutch unit itself is pretty durable.  The "problem" stems from the fact that it requires you to remove two pairs of plates from the clutch stack, which limits the capacity of the clutch a little.

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Probably. The clutch unit itself is pretty durable. The "problem" stems from the fact that it requires you to remove two pairs of plates from the clutch stack, which limits the capacity of the clutch a little.

So two questions. First, what do you mean by limits? Second, is it a limitation that a just ok rider would even notice?

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A clutch's holding power is the sum of its plates and the pressure applied.  Your clutch has 8 friction and 7 plain plates now. That gives it 16 surfaces that carry the drive load. The EXP removes 3 friction plates and two plain plates, but sits between two steels, so it replaces one of the frictions, removing a net of two.  That leaves your clutch with 12 load bearing friction surfaces to carry the same load.  That's a 25% reduction in load capacity.

 

This will show up in two ways, if not 3.  If you try, it might actually slip under a load on pavement in 5th, but even if it doesn't, the plate life will be lower than without it, and it will get hot faster. 

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A clutch's holding power is the sum of its plates and the pressure applied. Your clutch has 8 friction and 7 plain plates now. That gives it 16 surfaces that carry the drive load. The EXP removes 3 friction plates and two plain plates, but sits between two steels, so it replaces one of the frictions, removing a net of two. That leaves your clutch with 12 load bearing friction surfaces to carry the same load. That's a 25% reduction in load capacity.

This will show up in two ways, if not 3. If you try, it might actually slip under a load on pavement in 5th, but even if it doesn't, the plate life will be lower than without it, and it will get hot faster.

Thank you for the info. Another issue a ran into is the jerky throttle in the first 1/8-1/4 twist. What would be the most cost effective way to remedy that?

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You can get rid of some of that by mapping changes, and some guys use alternative throttle cams.  The most effective way to get rid of the effect is to have the throttle body modified by Injectioneering.

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You can get rid of some of that by mapping changes, and some guys use alternative throttle cams. The most effective way to get rid of the effect is to have the throttle body modified by Injectioneering.

Ok. I will check into the injectioneering mod. I bought this bike in June or July with the idea of ridding dunes and track. Do to a recent move and new group of ridding friends, I am mostly ridding xc type terian now. With less than 20 hours on a bike that I bought new, im kinda stuck with it. I have the suspension dialed in to my liking but I really need to get the power delivery to be more trail friendly. Is there any perticular order of mods that you would suggest?

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I had a tough time at first going from a WR to a YZ this year - stalling too much.  Changed the rear to a 51T and rarely stall any more.

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