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he man

wr450 (2006) suspension questions

18 posts in this topic

Is there an appreciable increase in performance in going the race tech valve front and back?  i am planning to perform a shock rebuild and im debating if i should go with a shock revalve.

Edited by he man

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Your WR shock uses the same piston that all the Yamaha 46mm shocks do.  Its more than up to the task and does not need replacing.  There are other applications where replacing the pistons makes total sense.   This is not one of them.

 

Revalving the shock has benefits.   Replacing the piston has very limited benefits and is often an expensive proposition.  Likewise, the rest of the shock is almost identical to the latest 46mm/16mm shaft shocks that worked very well on even high performance motocross machines.  There is very little need to upgrade anything in the shock, although there are a few exceptions in certain applications.

 

There are numerous threads in the suspension section detailing valve stacks for Kyb shocks on various Yamaha (and other) bikes if you are looking for stack ideas.  If it were my bike and I wanted a better ride, I would do a straight revalve, leaving the stock pistons in place.   Valve shims are ~$1 each plus whatever the labor is to have the work done. 

 

If you are having the shock rebuilt, it shouldn't be a lot extra.

 

If you are industrious, this work can be done quite easily in a home shop.

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I've rebuilt a few shocks before, but ive never reshimmed them. But it seems like a racetech gold valve should be something worth installing while im in there then. Ill swing over the suspension thread and see what kind of stacks people have been using for various terrain.

 

What about the forks? Theres a few different threads floating around in regards to the type of fork being used in each year of the WR.

 

The rear is mushy and the bike rocks back and forward on pavement at almost any speed. Im going to et my buddy to come over and help me set the sag and see if the existing springs are even correct for my weight ( i have no idea if the PO swapped them out or not).

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Racetech isn't expensive especially if you DIY http://www.amazon.com/Race-Tech-Gold-Valve-Shock/dp/B001RZA1G0

 

You certainly can shuffle some shims in your stock valves. I would just be careful who your getting your shim shuffling information from there. There are some riders on here with 45+ years of experience and some with one year. 

 

You may also find yourself shuffling shims a few times with a couple of different peoples advise.

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I've rebuilt a few shocks before, but ive never reshimmed them. But it seems like a racetech gold valve should be something worth installing while im in there then. Ill swing over the suspension thread and see what kind of stacks people have been using for various terrain.

What about the forks? Theres a few different threads floating around in regards to the type of fork being used in each year of the WR.

The rear is mushy and the bike rocks back and forward on pavement at almost any speed. Im going to et my buddy to come over and help me set the sag and see if the existing springs are even correct for my weight ( i have no idea if the PO swapped them out or not).

If you get Racetech their computer will guide you through the shims to be used on the gold valves.

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If you get Racetech their computer will guide you through the shims to be used on the gold valves.

 

Hope its better than their spring selector. 

 

If you go through the RT instructions, they give you a suggested stack.  If you don't like it, you tear it apart and put in the next stack.  Wash, rinse, repeat.

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Hope its better than their spring selector. 

 

If you go through the RT instructions, they give you a suggested stack.  If you don't like it, you tear it apart and put in the next stack.  Wash, rinse, repeat.

 

Their spring selector is an absolute nightmare, it does not work for any bike ive ever tried it on.

 

Is the RT stack suggestions any good?

 

any comment on the forks? (is a revalve worth it, just FYI i only weigh 150lbs)

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very happy with my gold valve and revalving from RT. 2006 WR as well, very important to be as accurate as possible on the shim calculator on your weight before gear, oversize tank or not, riding style, etc. SIGNIFICANT improvement from stock valving for me.

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Their spring selector is an absolute nightmare, it does not work for any bike ive ever tried it on.

 

Is the RT stack suggestions any good?

 

any comment on the forks? (is a revalve worth it, just FYI i only weigh 150lbs)

 

Agreed.

 

I don't know.

 

I think I'd pick up a set of used SSS forks.  Ask Krannie about this, he has done it. 

 

They will need revalving, of course.  I've heard of people running emulators in the non SSS WR forks, but that is all I know.  Grayracer would know.

 

DIY revalving takes 3 hours to rebuild and reinstall the fork/shock and 3 weeks to figure out what change to make.  I've recently found out that Restackor is a huge help.

 

FWIW, I rode a stock 2010 WR450F on the weekend.  I'd revalve it if I was using it for serious riding, and that is putting it nicely.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

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Their spring selector is an absolute nightmare, it does not work for any bike ive ever tried it on.

Is the RT stack suggestions any good?

any comment on the forks? (is a revalve worth it, just FYI i only weigh 150lbs)

When you buy the kit you get access to their computer and you punch in your weight type of riding big tank and so forth.

It is very likely the spring weight could be different with revalved forks and shocks.

It was a night and day difference. There was no I didn't like it have to revalve it again. Sorry.

I don't weigh much more than you and I use stock springs.

By the way many suspension tuners have been to Racetechs $600. Seminars.

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FYI, that is for a 50mm shock. WRs have 46s with 16mm shafts. Different kit.

Sorry look up the right kit. I'm sure you can get a good deal on it.

It might be better to use a company that has forgot more about suspension than some people will ever know.

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WR's come pretty good out of the box for the east coast.

 

You may just need the suspension freshened up with oil and seals. 

 

Going over all the bearings would be smart too.

 

If you can do that yourself and can set the sag right I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

No need to spend money to fix what prolly isn't broken.

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WR's come pretty good out of the box for the east coast.

 

You may just need the suspension freshened up with oil and seals. 

 

Going over all the bearings would be smart too.

 

If you can do that yourself and can set the sag right I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

No need to spend money to fix what prolly isn't broken.

 

I think the adage "the best you know is the best you've ridden" applies here.

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WR's come pretty good out of the box for the east coast.

You may just need the suspension freshened up with oil and seals.

Going over all the bearings would be smart too.

If you can do that yourself and can set the sag right I'm sure you'll be fine.

No need to spend money to fix what prolly isn't broken.

Hum I call them defective front fork base valves.

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I owned a 2006 WR450 and it's suspension was pretty good stock.

 

150 pounds is light for the stock springs.

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