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Dune Ready

Rekluse - Core EXP 3.0 or EXP?

25 posts in this topic

Hello,

 

I have a 2013 450 and I am looking at getting a rekluse for it.  I ride the woods, mostly tight single track, and sand dunes only.  I was wondering what you guys would suggest I buy, the Core EXP or just the EXP.  I do like the that the EXP is cheaper, but I just want to get what will work best for me.  If the Core is the way to go, I don't mind spending the extra money.  

 

Also, the engine is stock.  

 

Thanks for the input

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Z start pro is the way to go. That what I have in my 13' yz450. I do hare scrambles and a lot of single track in the mountains. The best mod I've ever bought for a bike. And it's only 600

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Personally I felt the z start was the same thing as the $900 clutch only it doesn't come with a clutch cover and you have to adjust you lever feel once in a blue moon. Now the exp 2.0 burns the shit out of friction plates because it uses ball bearing or something to activate the clutch. But I do know that they fixed it with the exp 3.0 by adding springs with the bearings. It all boils down to what you can afford now. They all do the same thing. I just couldn't afford 900 and just went with the z and I love every bit of it!

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 I know why I like it.  The EXP 3.0 reduces the holding power of the clutch by removing one pair of plates, and also tends to increase lever effort.  It requires more fiddling with free play adjustment during use, as well.

 

The Core EXP is a complete "real" racing clutch assembly with auto-clutch functionality, but kind of pricey.  It does provide pretty normal feeling lever effort, however, and the adjustments are much more stable than with the 3.0.  Both of the EXP types can be temporarily setup to allow bump starts, and then can then be returned their auto-clutch ability on the fly.

 

The Z-Start Pro cannot be used to bump start the bike under any circumstance.  As far as I can tell, that is the only downside to the thing.  I find that the Z-Start Pro is more "tunable", more easily tuned, and overall has a smoother and more predictable engagement action than the EXP's, whch IMO makes it more suitable for serious off-road stuff like rocky single track.  The lever pull is very light, and if fact, can be almost disturbingly light until you finally figure out that you just don't really need it for very much of anything anymore.  The OEM Yamaha friction plates are used, and hold up very well in the clutch on my desert raced '06.

 

They take some getting used to, and really, they aren't for everyone, but if you like it, you'll love it once you make friends with it.

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 I know why I like it.  The EXP 3.0 reduces the holding power of the clutch by removing one pair of plates, and also tends to increase lever effort.  It requires more fiddling with free play adjustment during use, as well.

 

The Core EXP is a complete "real" racing clutch assembly with auto-clutch functionality, but kind of pricey.  It does provide pretty normal feeling lever effort, however, and the adjustments are much more stable than with the 3.0.  Both of the EXP types can be temporarily setup to allow bump starts, and then can then be returned their auto-clutch ability on the fly.

 

The Z-Start Pro cannot be used to bump start the bike under any circumstance.  As far as I can tell, that is the only downside to the thing.  I find that the Z-Start Pro is more "tunable", more easily tuned, and overall has a smoother and more predictable engagement action than the EXP's, whch IMO makes it more suitable for serious off-road stuff like rocky single track.  The lever pull is very light, and if fact, can be almost disturbingly light until you finally figure out that you just don't really need it for very much of anything anymore.  The OEM Yamaha friction plates are used, and hold up very well in the clutch on my desert raced '06.

 

They take some getting used to, and really, they aren't for everyone, but if you like it, you'll love it once you make friends with it.

 

I have only run the Core EXP 3.0. I have to agree that there is no increase in clutch lever force whatsoever. In fact, if you don't tell someone you installed it they probably won't realize it until they drop the bike and it doesn't stall. Also no change in lockup of the clutch once it's beyond the auto-clutch lockup, which is at fairly low RPM on my KX250F. Once in motion, I can crank up the revs with the clutch in and drop it without noticing the clutch is auto. In the 20 or so hours I have on mine I have never needed to adjust the free play since I set it the first time. I think it's a fantastic add-on, especially when I stall essentially never on tough trails or drop the bike and don't need to restart it in 104 degree weather and 90% humidity. Your mileage may vary.

 

Those are some of the pros. A definite con is not only not being able to bump the bike, which I don't mind since I don't stall it, but also you can't kill the bike by locking the engine if your kill switch goes bad. Ask me how I know. :lol:

 

As for cost, buy once, cry once. Totally worth the extra $$$ if you can afford it IMO.

Edited by LSHD

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I don't want to sound stupid. But I was reading that the z start is harder to get adjusted right compared to the Core?

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I don't want to sound stupid. But I was reading that the z start is harder to get adjusted right compared to the Core?

 

My buddy and I both installed Z-Start Pros on WR450F's (non fuel injected).  Followed the instructions to a T (which were very easy) for the recommended settings and no further adjustment has been required.  I dont have experience with CORE EXP 3.0, but the Z-start was an easy install/no adjustment.

 

Regarding cost.....I looked at the EXP for $399 new (and read about some of the shortcomings on a big bore 4 strokes) and decided it was better to buy a used Z-Start Pro off CL for $280.  Seller said he had installed for 3 rides....and it honestly looked like it had no visible wear.   Like other accessories, it makes better sense for a seller of a used bike to remove and sell the autoclutch separately since most buyers wont chip in any thing extra in the purchase price to get an autoclutch.

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Hello,

I have a 2013 450 and I am looking at getting a rekluse for it. I ride the woods, mostly tight single track, and sand dunes only. I was wondering what you guys would suggest I buy, the Core EXP or just the EXP. I do like the that the EXP is cheaper, but I just want to get what will work best for me. If the Core is the way to go, I don't mind spending the extra money.

Also, the engine is stock.

Thanks for the input

The core is the hot setup you will love it it's the best thing you'll do for your bike besides suspension.

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I don't want to sound stupid. But I was reading that the z start is harder to get adjusted right compared to the Core?

 

Well, it's not.  It's a different process, but not harder.  I started with the recommended setup, made one change to it, and haven't messed with it since.

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Don't get the cheapest version.  Clutch pull is stiffer.  Auto clutch may help you from stalling but aside from that I found that it didn't help my cornering technique at all.  In fact, it slowed me down in the corners.  Real nice in technical terrain, esp. when you're tired and fighting arm pump.  Get the most expensive one if you are a serious rider.

Edited by Navaho6

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 Auto clutch may help you from stalling but aside from that I found that it didn't help my cornering technique at all.  In fact, it slowed me down in the corners. 

 

I don't understand how that would be the case. Explain?

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I was worried the super light pull at low rpms on the z start would be too hard to control. I bought the core exp because I heard it was most like stock, and it is. I have let people ride my bike and asked what they thought of the rekluse , and they had no idea it was in there. That being said, I don't see how it could make you slower in the corners unless you are doing it wrong.

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I was worried the super light pull at low rpms on the z start would be too hard to control.

 

 

And it actually is.  The problem becomes you, the rider, trying to do one thing while the auto clutch is doing something else.  But, it turns out there's a very simple solution to that problem: leave the lever alone.  Once you've set up a ZSP to work as it really should, the lever is only really necessary for starting in gear, revving the engine in gear at a standstill, and on the starting line.  You can't modulate the clutch better than the clutch modulates itself, no matter who you are. 

 

What you have to do is retrain yourself to control the bike with only the throttle, like in a truck with an automatic trans, and let the clutch do the clutch work.

 

Tip: The base recommended setup is the mid engagement rpm (set with springs) and "quick" engagement (set by using a full set of 27 weight balls).  I found it engaged to abruptly to be able to start a gear high, or accelerate up an uphill turn one gear up, so I reset the engagement rate to "slow" by taking it down to 24 balls.  Works brilliantly.

 

The Rekluse has no effect on my cornering one way or other except that I can screw up and fail to downshift far enough for the exit and get away with it clean.  I should point out that because I've spent so many years riding bigger bikes and four strokes, I never fan the clutch leaving turns as do those who were brought up on smaller pingers.  The engine simply doesn't need the help if you're in the right gear.  Besides, there isn't anything about the way the Rekluse works that would keep you from using that technique, anyway.

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Clutch disengagement  when running down steep switchbacks can be disconcerting until you get use to it, or minimize it by using firstgear.

 

The plus is you can easily brake slide tight corners without killing the engine. :thumbsup:

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I was in a similar situation when I was trying to figure out which model to go with. After doing some research and talking to Rekluse , I went with the the full core EXP setup and never looked back. It was easy to set up the first time and hasn't needed any adjustment since, I love it. I chose not to go with the Z start as an option because the Z start is older technology that Rekluse is phasing out and going with the current wedge technology instead. The Z start is proven but it's essentially being discontinued so with a new bike I wanted to stay current. There has been some issues with the guys that just run the core as it places more load on fewer friction discs and you still have to use your stock clutch basket which can cause chattering issues. I just bit the bullet and did it right the first time.

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There has been some issues with the guys that just run the core as it places more load on fewer friction discs and you still have to use your stock clutch basket which can cause chattering issues.

 

To clarify, the setup you have described is not the Core (which is manual) or the Core EXP (the top of the line auto), but the EXP 3.0.  That is the low cost one that replaces a pair of plates in the otherwise original clutch.

 

Note that the ZSP uses the existing basket (any brand) as well, and is smooth as silk on the uptake. 

 

 

Here's another odd little safety tip: The fact that you can turn the engine over while staring DOES NOT MEAN IT'S IN NEUTRAL. :smirk:

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And it actually is.  The problem becomes you, the rider, trying to do one thing while the auto clutch is doing something else.  But, it turns out there's a very simple solution to that problem: leave the lever alone.  Once you've set up a ZSP to work as it really should, the lever is only really necessary for starting in gear, revving the engine in gear at a standstill, and on the starting line.  You can't modulate the clutch better than the clutch modulates itself, no matter who you are. 

 

The need for using the clutch still exists if you want to get a burst of power or need additional power at the bottom end of a gear. For a beginner rider, this technique is not usually needed. For a pro level rider, it is essential. For everyone in between, it is a useful technique that will help you go faster.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yCs-YOUnhg

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