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I was riding in my local trails yesterday and decided to stop for lunch. I pulled up in my driveway and noticed a big wet spot under the bike. After some inspection I realized that a bolt was completely missing from the right side of my engine right behind what looks like a drain for the oil filter (also right in front of and under the brake pedal). I have no clue what this bolt was for or how it rattled itself out but it seems to have been a drain plug of some kind. I lost a ton of oil (my boot was covered in oil and the whole right side of the engine is covered). I'm planning on obviously draining the rest of the oil and replacing the oil filter and all since I was almost due for an oil change anyway. Should I be concerned about having run the bike with little oil and any damage that may have caused? I've seen a few threads on people who lost a bolt and seized their engines but none on this scenario. Can't believe how lucky I got but if anyone has any advice on checking for damage or if anyone knows what that bolt is or where to get another please let me know. Thanks!
Hi. I have a honda 2006 crf250r rolling frame with no engine. I want to purchase a reconditioned engine off ebay but i want to confirm first with year model engines will bolt streoght into a 2006 frame. I have searched the internet for answers but i always find different answers
I have looked all over and cannot find a good accurate resource out there. I recently decided that it was time to tear into my 1990 DR350S. (suzuki) it would not run reliably or really at all anymore and I found that the compression was only about 80PSI. After tearing into the motor I found that overall it was in pretty good shape.. the Oil ring was stuck inside the piston so that it was not sealing well and it appeared that the valves may not have been seating well. Really I figure I can re-grind or re-seat the valves, replace the top end gaskets and piston rings and it should be good.. what I am wanting to know is how do you know if you should replace more (valves, timing chain, ect..) I do have a strong Mechanical background but have never liked or done much engine internals.. any advice would be greatly appreciated. I do have pictures of the valves.. you can see them here https://goo.gl/NH76kw... let me know if that does not work and I can copy them to this post.
Okay so I have an Azusa Minibike Kit, and I got it all together with a Predator 212cc Engine from Harbor Freight.
Here is the problem, the chain will come off after about a minute of riding, its as tight as I could get it, its straight in line with the sprocket and clutch
Any ideas? Anyone have this problem before?
I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
Set of Allen wrenches
#3 Phillips screwdriver
small flat head screwdriver
8 & 10 mm sockets
13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate )
snap ring pliers
New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
Tube or can of RTV sealant
Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
2. Remove right side radiator cover.
3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).
4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.
8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:
10. Remove the plastic gear.
11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:
12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:
13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):
16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
27. You are done, go ride!
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