Reduce engine braking on 2012 WR450

Is there a way to reduce the engine braking on the new FI WR450's?

 

I just picked up a 2012 WR450 to replace my old 2000 WR400. I like the new bike, except the engine braking is excessive. A lot worse than my old WR400.

 

Any advice?

Uh oh.

I was pretty shocked not ever riding a 4 stroke dirt bike (went from an 04 CR250R to the 12 WR450F).  I thought the engine breaking was extreme too, but now I'm just used to it and it doesn't bother me in the least bit.  I know this doesn't answer your question, but I'm pretty sure you won't even think it  a bother in a while.

Slipper clutch if you must

Ive found that on 4 stroke singles ,If you open up the exhaust some what, the brakes will get weaker, that's the first sign of reduced engine braking. Course you had zero engine braking with that CR, so its a jump, but you can learn to use it as a tool.

Edited by Spud786

Ride a gear high.

I've adjusted the idle "CO" setting from 0 to 7. I'm hoping it'll help. At the very least I hope it helps the bike start when it's hot. Currently when the bike is really hot it has trouble restarting. usually I'll give it a little throttle to start it up when hot, but I'm hoping the "CO" adjustment will fix this and maybe reduce engine braking.

You can always raise the idle a little bit... or, clutch when you back off the throttle... or don't back off the throttle and use the clutch to reduce speed like you'd do on a two stroke.

 

I guess I'm saying that you should ride differently.

Adjust the CO level and idle to spec (1900-2100rpm) is a must. You can tune the FI mapping to reduce it from there.

Ride a gear high.

 

Get the mapping/jetting very crisp at off-idle, use the most agressive ignition map, and ride one or two gear higher.

 

I do this on my carb'd bikes and it works great. 

The Hinson BTL Slipper clutch will eliminate excessive engine braking and wheel hop going into tight turns/berms... makes the 4 stroke feel very similar to riding a 2 stroke. Gives it that free-wheeling effect when you chop the throttle... 

 

Cheers

0904131617.jpg

0904131621.jpg

0908131855a.jpg

1221131323a.jpg

Clutch

When it's pulled the bike just coasts

Get the mapping/jetting very crisp at off-idle, use the most agressive ignition map...

 

Krannie, what do you mean map for crisp off-idle and most aggressive map?

 

 

The map I currently have is "quick revving in mid to top rpm range":

Fuel    +1   +1   +1     Ignition     +1   +3   +4

           +3   +2   +1                      +2   +2   +2

           +3   +3   +1                      +2   +1   +1

 

Would a different map help? I'll see if upping the CO setting helps.

 

I thought I read that you can use the FI diagnostic tool to reduce the engine braking, but I wasn't able to find that thread.

 

I'd prefer not to have to clutch in excessively to fix a deficiency with the bike.

After some googling. I'll try the "woods/tight trail" map to see about reducing the engine braking. Hopefully it doesn't moot the power too much, I like the power delivery the way it currently is. It's just when I chop the throttle at slower speeds.

I only find the engine braking to be a problem in 1st as it's geared so low.  I'm running a richer map with a CO level of 8.  Stock exhaust, uncorked.

Put an 08 YZ exhaust cam in it.   Runs way better in every other way too.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

After some googling. I'll try the "woods/tight trail" map to see about reducing the engine braking. Hopefully it doesn't moot the power too much, I like the power delivery the way it currently is. It's just when I chop the throttle at slower speeds.

 

If you don't like the woods map, maybe use your old map but bump the ignition numbers up a little in the bottom row.

It looks like you have it set up right, but have you calibrated the TPS

It needs to be re -set after break in.

You can merely change the TPS output voltage for an immediate change in response

I don't know the exact voltage, but the service manual has the range, which is .6 to.7 volts

It looks like you have it set up right, but have you calibrated the TPS

It needs to be re -set after break in.

You can merely change the TPS output voltage for an immediate change in response

I don't know the exact voltage, but the service manual has the range, which is .6 to.7 volts

 

How do I calibrate the TPS sensor?

It's mode D:01 on the diagnostic tool.  With the throttle closed, it should be in the range of 9-16.  Mine was 11.  There's 2 T25 screws holding the TPS on.  You can rotate it slightly to change the reading.  It's in the fuel system chapter of the manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now