HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Spiritwalker2222

Reduce engine braking on 2012 WR450

77 posts in this topic

Is there a way to reduce the engine braking on the new FI WR450's?

 

I just picked up a 2012 WR450 to replace my old 2000 WR400. I like the new bike, except the engine braking is excessive. A lot worse than my old WR400.

 

Any advice?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was pretty shocked not ever riding a 4 stroke dirt bike (went from an 04 CR250R to the 12 WR450F).  I thought the engine breaking was extreme too, but now I'm just used to it and it doesn't bother me in the least bit.  I know this doesn't answer your question, but I'm pretty sure you won't even think it  a bother in a while.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive found that on 4 stroke singles ,If you open up the exhaust some what, the brakes will get weaker, that's the first sign of reduced engine braking. Course you had zero engine braking with that CR, so its a jump, but you can learn to use it as a tool.

Edited by Spud786

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've adjusted the idle "CO" setting from 0 to 7. I'm hoping it'll help. At the very least I hope it helps the bike start when it's hot. Currently when the bike is really hot it has trouble restarting. usually I'll give it a little throttle to start it up when hot, but I'm hoping the "CO" adjustment will fix this and maybe reduce engine braking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can always raise the idle a little bit... or, clutch when you back off the throttle... or don't back off the throttle and use the clutch to reduce speed like you'd do on a two stroke.

 

I guess I'm saying that you should ride differently.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Adjust the CO level and idle to spec (1900-2100rpm) is a must. You can tune the FI mapping to reduce it from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ride a gear high.

 

Get the mapping/jetting very crisp at off-idle, use the most agressive ignition map, and ride one or two gear higher.

 

I do this on my carb'd bikes and it works great. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Hinson BTL Slipper clutch will eliminate excessive engine braking and wheel hop going into tight turns/berms... makes the 4 stroke feel very similar to riding a 2 stroke. Gives it that free-wheeling effect when you chop the throttle... 

 

Cheers

0904131617.jpg

0904131621.jpg

0908131855a.jpg

1221131323a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the mapping/jetting very crisp at off-idle, use the most agressive ignition map...

 

Krannie, what do you mean map for crisp off-idle and most aggressive map?

 

 

The map I currently have is "quick revving in mid to top rpm range":

Fuel    +1   +1   +1     Ignition     +1   +3   +4

           +3   +2   +1                      +2   +2   +2

           +3   +3   +1                      +2   +1   +1

 

Would a different map help? I'll see if upping the CO setting helps.

 

I thought I read that you can use the FI diagnostic tool to reduce the engine braking , but I wasn't able to find that thread.

 

I'd prefer not to have to clutch in excessively to fix a deficiency with the bike.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After some googling. I'll try the "woods/tight trail" map to see about reducing the engine braking. Hopefully it doesn't moot the power too much, I like the power delivery the way it currently is. It's just when I chop the throttle at slower speeds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After some googling. I'll try the "woods/tight trail" map to see about reducing the engine braking. Hopefully it doesn't moot the power too much, I like the power delivery the way it currently is. It's just when I chop the throttle at slower speeds.

 

If you don't like the woods map, maybe use your old map but bump the ignition numbers up a little in the bottom row.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like you have it set up right, but have you calibrated the TPS

It needs to be re -set after break in.

You can merely change the TPS output voltage for an immediate change in response

I don't know the exact voltage, but the service manual has the range, which is .6 to.7 volts

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like you have it set up right, but have you calibrated the TPS

It needs to be re -set after break in.

You can merely change the TPS output voltage for an immediate change in response

I don't know the exact voltage, but the service manual has the range, which is .6 to.7 volts

 

How do I calibrate the TPS sensor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's mode D:01 on the diagnostic tool.  With the throttle closed, it should be in the range of 9-16.  Mine was 11.  There's 2 T25 screws holding the TPS on.  You can rotate it slightly to change the reading.  It's in the fuel system chapter of the manual.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Similar Content

    • By Massconspiracy
      Hi. I have a honda 2006 crf250r rolling frame with no engine. I want to purchase a reconditioned engine off ebay but i want to confirm first with year model engines will bolt streoght into a 2006 frame. I have searched the internet for answers but i always find different answers
    • By dillysadv
      I have looked all over and cannot find a good accurate resource out there. I recently decided that it was time to tear into my 1990 DR350S. (suzuki) it would not run reliably or really at all anymore and I found that the compression was only about 80PSI. After tearing into the motor I found that overall it was in pretty good shape.. the Oil ring was stuck inside the piston so that it was not sealing well and it appeared that the valves may not have been seating well. Really I figure I can re-grind or re-seat the valves, replace the top end gaskets and piston rings and it should be good.. what I am wanting to know is how do you know if you should replace more (valves, timing chain, ect..) I do have a strong Mechanical background but have never liked or done much engine internals.. any advice would be greatly appreciated.  I do have pictures of the valves.. you can see them here https://goo.gl/NH76kw... let me know if that does not work and I can copy them to this post. 
    • By DirtBikeBoy39
      Okay so I have an Azusa Minibike Kit, and I got it all together with a Predator 212cc Engine from Harbor Freight.
      Here is the problem, the chain will come off after about a minute of riding, its as tight as I could get it, its straight in line with the sprocket and clutch
       
      Any ideas? Anyone have this problem before? 
       
      Thanks

    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate )
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki
    • By chip6565
      I bought the GYTR weighted flywheel and was actually reluctant to put it on fearing it would rob me of lowend, and make the bike feel lazy. So, I finally gave it a try, and wow, what a difference!
      In recent weeks I put on a ported cylinder, a shorty silencer, and dropped one tooth on the rear sprcket. None of which made a noticable improvement.
      Now on to the Flywheel weight. A friend who I ride with also has one on his bike and he is always so much smoother in the corners. He actually feared me puting in on! Well his feers were well founded. He now has the best view!
      From the instant I pulled away I could feel the difference. The bike actually felt 4-stroke like. Not necessarily a good thing in a two-stroke world but in a good way. Instead of blowing through the gears it wound-up like a wide ratio transmission (on the bottom) and didn't rob from the top. It was like I traded HP for torque on the bottom. My corner speed was NOTICIBLY faster in the first lap.
      Needless to say, for now I am sold and will leave it on!