07 YZ450F - Stainless valves for Snowbike use?

Just picked up this 07 YZ450F today to use as a Timbersled host for snow riding. It is in OK shape apart from the dirty air filter (ack!) And the cold motor puff of smoke on throttle whacks that goes with the dirty air filter. I got the price down low enough ($1350) to make it worth a buy.. So I'm going to take the head off and inspect and most likely do the valves etc.. Should I go with stainless valves and kibblewhite springs? It will be run very very hard in the snow.. Not uncommon to be pinned for minutes at a time. Anything else I should do to increase durability while I have the head off? 

 

I'm also planning to run heated grips and maybe a small light. It looks like Rickystator just started selling a 35w stator for this gen YZF. Is the stocker good enough to power heated grips? 35w is pathetic.

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Well I can only tell you S.S. valves don't break the stems. I have seen a stocker break right at the keepers.

Stainless valves break, too.  As far as I'm concerned, only the best of them are any better than the OEM Ti valves, but those are more expensive than stock once you put all the parts together.

so order all OEM parts? I was going to go Kibblewhite... thanks for the input. I just want reliability #1... if I break down snowbiking it means sub freezing temps and miles of waist deep snow to the truck.

KW's are high quality pieces, but here's the rub: They're naturally heavier because they're stainless (about 75-85% heavier), so they need special springs to control the weight.  KW's spring kits include titanium retainers (not keepers/collets, retainers), which is cool because it reduces some of the extra that the valves weigh, but it makes the spring set expensive ( about $250-275).  All tolled, they cost more, and I don't honestly think there's a performance or reliability advantage. 

thanks, Gray I'll go with OEM valves.

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Intake valves look good, exhaust valves were .17 and .11 no good, carbon buildup 

Just picked up this 07 YZ450F today to use as a Timbersled host for snow riding. It is in OK shape apart from the dirty air filter (ack!) And the cold motor puff of smoke on throttle whacks that goes with the dirty air filter. I got the price down low enough ($1350) to make it worth a buy.. So I'm going to take the head off and inspect and most likely do the valves etc.. Should I go with stainless valves and kibblewhite springs? It will be run very very hard in the snow.. Not uncommon to be pinned for minutes at a time. Anything else I should do to increase durability while I have the head off?

I'm also planning to run heated grips and maybe a small light. It looks like Rickystator just started selling a 35w stator for this gen YZF. Is the stocker good enough to power heated grips? 35w is pathetic.

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If your looking for more info in what guys are doing to make dirt bikes into "snow bikes" visit the snowest forum. I had my first season of snow biking last year on my 2011 YZ450 and that forum was a massive help in getting the bike put together properly for snow.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=178

KW's are high quality pieces

 

It doesn't look like a very happy motor inside

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connecting rod looks galled :(

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some of this is oil streaks

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I ordered a wiseco 13.5:1 high comp piston and new exhaust valves

 

On the phone Wiseco told me their cranks and rods are made in Tawain..  :jawdrop:  :foul:

 

so I didn't order theirs.

 

Not sure what to do.. should I order a whole new crank and rod kit? just a new rod and bearings? I won't have time to split cases until next weekend at the soonest.

The blue on the crankshaft is from the factory assembly.

 

I've seen worse on the small end.

The small end does look a bit sketchy.  Might be a good idea to get it rebuilt with a new rod kit.   The cylinder looks like it would likely be OK once honed (unless the black stuff is pitting).  Clean it up with a bottle brush hone and measure it out for roundness/straightness.  I see no other problems.

Thanks. The black spots are just dirty oil.  I'll get a rod kit or look for a good used crank/rod

 

On gearing... The WR 1st is lower than the yz correct? I'm thinking swap WR 1st and 5th gearsets in. I see you only did 4-5... I wouldn't mind the 5th gap as it would probably only be used for road jaunts in summer. Would that work OK?

Carrillo - CP makes a Carrillo rod. I wouldn't use Tiawan.

Thanks. The black spots are just dirty oil.  I'll get a rod kit or look for a good used crank/rod

 

On gearing... The WR 1st is lower than the yz correct? I'm thinking swap WR 1st and 5th gearsets in. I see you only did 4-5... I wouldn't mind the 5th gap as it would probably only be used for road jaunts in summer. Would that work OK?

 

Then you'd have  a huge gap between both 4/5 and 1/2.  If you want the WR low, you need the WR main shaft anyway, because the low pinion is cut directly on the shaft.  With the Rekluse, I don't need the lower gear, and the jump to 5th is about as big as I'd want as is, using the WR 4&5.  I don't think you'd like it as big as it would be with a YZ 4th.

 

You might want to go with the complete WR box instead.

This is getting spendy.. When I had my 07 wr450 I considered the gearing "close ratio" compared to my well geared FE390. I don't think I'll ever run a rekluse again. Hmm

ok. have a yamaha yz crank coming, 1st and 5th gearsets + axle from WR. 

Edited by n16ht5

If you go that route, be sure you verify the fit of all the lugs where the new and old gears run together. 

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gear swap

 

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Looking like a proper project now! Thanks for the pictures!

 

I can't wait to see how it turns out! :ride:

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