YZ 450 2014 LOOSE FRONT END

Not sure id want to speed up the rebound as a band aid to keep the front up.

 

An O ring, on the outside ?, never heard of anyone doing that ?

Using rebound is no different than using comp clicker, they both can work together to find your sweet spot. O-ring can tell how much travel you are using.

Mmmm, interesting, never heard of that to alleviate front end looseness.

Me neither.  It was an act of desperation.  I had tried everything else that I could think to try; usually geometry and tire pressure were good enough.  I tried way more than that; and still front-end push.

 

Your mileage may vary; maybe it was an issue specific to my 2009 YZ250F.  I was running my rear wheel farther back in the adjusters on purpose.  It turns out that was a bad idea; the exact opposite was fantastic.

 

I rode it again yesterday; the front end is sticking like glue.  It's probably because I've done so many things... but finally, I can come into a flat corner, get off the gas, lean it over, and have it stick right there until I can get back on the gas and transfer the weight back.

 

One can argue that I shouldn't be "riding the front" like that into the corner... but it's nice to be able to.  Before, it seemed like I had to be ready to catch the front end slide pulling stuff like that.

From all way in & back out - 4 comp, & 8 reb, (this is aft last oil removal) with standard oil level was running about 8 comp

8 out on rebound is too slow unless you are riding sand and it will make the front tire wash out.  Go out to 12 clicks or so. 

 

My 14 sticks like glue. 

8 out on rebound is too slow unless you are riding sand and it will make the front tire wash out.  Go out to 12 clicks or so. 

 

My 14 sticks like glue. 

That's the thing, i am riding really rough sand tracks almost entirely !

That's the thing, i am riding really rough sand tracks almost entirely !

 

I experimented with my rebound stacks extensively lately and found out what causes that loose sensation in sand and also harsh feeling.   Too slow initial rebound and too fast rebound deeper in the stroke. 

 

Is this what you are experiencing:

  • If you run the fork rebound clicker in, the bike behaves mid-exit of corners and doesnt get swappy, but it causes the bike to feel loose on the entrance to corners and push?
  • Conversely if you run the rebound clicker out, the bike tracks into corners well but come mid corner it wants to unload and get huckabuck and gets nervous on faster sandy sections?

 

I experimented with my rebound stacks extensively lately and found out what causes that loose sensation in sand and also harsh feeling.   Too slow initial rebound and too fast rebound deeper in the stroke. 

 

Is this what you are experiencing:

  • If you run the fork rebound clicker in, the bike behaves mid-exit of corners and doesnt get swappy, but it causes the bike to feel loose on the entrance to corners and push?
  • Conversely if you run the rebound clicker out, the bike tracks into corners well but come mid corner it wants to unload and get huckabuck and gets nervous on faster sandy sections?

 

OK, didnt realize you could adjust 2 sets of rebound speeds within the stroke ?

 

Agree with it pushing/drifting wider than your intended path on entrances.Then also wants to sit up mid corner. Some of that might be from having the forks pulled just about all the way through.

 

If i run it much faster than what i have, yes when you do hit the fast sections & its using most of the stroke, yeah it unloads making it feel harsh.

OK, didnt realize you could adjust 2 sets of rebound speeds within the stroke ?

 

Agree with it pushing/drifting wider than your intended path on entrances.Then also wants to sit up mid corner. Some of that might be from having the forks pulled just about all the way through.

 

If i run it much faster than what i have, yes when you do hit the fast sections & its using most of the stroke, yeah it unloads making it feel harsh.

 

 

Unfortunately you cant influence one without influencing the other with clicker adjustments.  You have to adjust with the shim stack.

 

Are you running stock springs?  

 

I actually stiffened up the forks internally and run 340ml of oil and find them very plush.

Unfortunately you cant influence one without influencing the other with clicker adjustments.  You have to adjust with the shim stack.

 

Are you running stock springs?  

 

I actually stiffened up the forks internally and run 340ml of oil and find them very plush.

Yeah the stock .49's ?

Why does everybody lower the back of the bike when all you do with this is take weight off the front wheel? Doesn't look right to me if you are looking for more traction in the front

I agree....with more sag the front will want to push more in corners. Theres alot of people with the new yz 250f doing this too.

Edited by Edge316

The hot ticket is drop the sub-frame height and run 102mm sag.

I moved mine to the front holes with the bar clamps back I'll ride tonight and test it. Only problem is I can't get a flat head on my comp setting

Factory connection sells an compression adjuster tool that fits under the bars. Very easy to use. 

The hot ticket is drop the sub-frame height and run 102mm sag.

Can you explain what lowering the subframe accomplished for you? and also how you lowered it? Thanks

Why does everybody lower the back of the bike when all you do with this is take weight off the front wheel? Doesn't look right to me if you are looking for more traction in the front

 

Lowering the back doesn't change the weight on the front wheel in the least.  What it does do is make the head angle slightly shallower. 

Ok love my bike now! 20mm triple clamps, bars, 90 mm front tire, Dr D rad lowering kit, Dr D engine relocation kit, Cycra plastic kit. Best bike I have ever ridden! Start with the plastic as it lets up ride way up front of the bike!

Ok love my bike now! 20mm triple clamps, bars, 90 mm front tire, Dr D rad lowering kit, Dr D engine relocation kit, Cycra plastic kit. Best bike I have ever ridden! Start with the plastic as it lets up ride way up front of the bike!

How you find the 20mm offsett clamps ? , what difference do you notice with them from stock ? which make did you buy ?

 

Also did you fit all those parts at once, where in the sequence did you fit the clamps ?, as it sometimes its hard to notice the difference each of those parts make unless its done one at a time ?

I first changed the tire and played with air pressure 12 1/2 lbs best, then X-Trig clamps with new bars in the middle holes and offset forward, had to play with fork setting again. Next was the Dr D rad. Lowering kit. Loved the bike at this point but, was at the end of my ridding season! Over the summer added Cycra plastics with JGR graphics and the Dr D motor mount relocation kit along with 2015 motor mounts. The bike is so much better, point and shoot now it's like turning on rails, flat or in a burm.

If your bike is stock start with the plastics and put the bars in the forward holes, then tires and then maybe next the clamp. After that the Dr D stuff. The plastics let you ride way further forward then with the stock plastic!

I first changed the tire and played with air pressure 12 1/2 lbs best, then X-Trig clamps with new bars in the middle holes and offset forward, had to play with fork setting again. Next was the Dr D rad. Lowering kit. Loved the bike at this point but, was at the end of my ridding season! Over the summer added Cycra plastics with JGR graphics and the Dr D motor mount relocation kit along with 2015 motor mounts. The bike is so much better, point and shoot now it's like turning on rails, flat or in a burm.

If your bike is stock start with the plastics and put the bars in the forward holes, then tires and then maybe next the clamp. After that the Dr D stuff. The plastics let you ride way further forward then with the stock plastic!

What parts did you order for the '15 motor mounts? Do I need the screws too?

What parts did you order for the '15 motor mounts? Do I need the screws too?

 

Motor mounts and the long bolt that goes through the engine cases.  The other 4 can be reused.

Motor mounts and the long bolt that goes through the engine cases.  The other 4 can be reused.

Cool thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now