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When the instructions said:
"Occasionally on XR 80/100 models the rocker box may need ground to clear the cam lobes" (sic)
"Get out the dremel, you will definitely need to grind some stuff"
On the right side, I only had to grind down the "fin edge" part where the cam could hit on the front of the rocker box.
On the left side, I had to do a little on the front and the back as well, I think including a bit of the rocker arm itself.
I'm not saying get out the grinder immediately, your mileage may vary... but when putting them in, tighten the cam bolts like normal, hand tighten the cam sprocket bolts, then slowly turn the motor over. When you hear a click, and it doesn't want to turn any more, get out the flashlight, slowly turn the motor back and forth, to see which cam lobe is hitting and where; then back off, remove cam sprocket bolts, and put safety wire through one hole (you don't have to remove the sprocket from the chain that way).
Then remove the rocker box like normal, loosening in the usual pattern. Take off, dremel what you think you need to, clean very well, put back, repeat. Always check timing, it's easy to be off a tooth.
If you find the rocker box sometimes is "picky" about sitting totally flush, and all the shimmy-shaking you're doing doesn't seem to help it want to be "totally cool", and flat and proper...
I found that sometimes those metal dowels are harder to put in one side than another. One side might slide into the rocker box easily, but not into the head very easily. So put that dowel into the trouble side first, while you have room to shimmy it in all by itself.
Then when trying to press stuff together, it will be more easygoing in fitting the dowel in nicely. That's the big alignment woe you're experiencing, is those dowels wanting everything lined up perfectly, sometimes they get too picky on one side.
I getting ready to tear into my 426 to freshen up the topend in to the bike I dont how many hours are on the topend or bottem end I a the 3rd ownner.
I was thinking about a 444 big bore kit what I dont like about it you cant over bore the cylinder again if something go's wrong down the road.
Is a High compressin piston worth it with the stock bore.
I want to have a good port job done on the head from a good know shop.
I already have hot cams in the motor I going to reuse so what kind of power should I get out of the bike.
I put a new cam chain when I installed the hot cams in the motor about 10 runing hours ago.
The bike has SS valves in it already the year 2000 came with them I have them checked and have the vavle seats lapped but they seem fine.
Probably my first post here. I am installing Hotcams stage 1 camshafts to my DR-Z 400 S 2006 model and i am adjusting valve clearance. Currently my valves are like this
0,28 mm 305mm adjustment piece -> i changed that to 310 so it goes to 0.23 mm
0.25mm 305mm adjustment piece -> i changed that to 310 so it goes to 0.20 mm (right to Hotcam spec which is 0.20 mm to exhaust)
0.15 mm 278 mm adjustment piece -> fits right without adjustment to Hotcam spec which is 0.15 to intake
0.18 mm 270 mm adjustment piece -> i keep this so it stays in 018 mm
Now question is should i change Intake valve 0.18 and 270 adjustment piece to 275 so it would go to 0.13 mm or do i keep it as it is? Personally i think it wont make difference and i have always understood its safer to have valve clearance to more loose side just in case. I will be checking valve clearance periodically anyway as its pretty quick job to do and i have good garace to do it.
i got about $1000 extra on an insurance claim, can't make up my mind if i want to put it towards power or better handling. which one of these mods will make the most noticeable difference? this is for a 2001 S model that is used 99% for street use.
So here I am with the new cams in and they don't line up at all like the picture hot cams provides... seems like 14 pins looks much better (3 dots pretty much all visible on both sprockets) but they say to go to 15. See pictures below at 14 and 15. Any help appreciated!