FI Map Plug in 2014 WR450

Holy cow!  This thing is stuck on tight.  Do I need to just yank until it comes free?  Yanking wires behind a plug makes me NERVOUS.

 

Three detents I can see in the plug cap.  Do I need to push all three down using all three of my arms?

 

I'm bordering on destroying the plug with pliers, tweezers, split ring pliers and a scratch awl.

 

The guy at the dealership popped it right off when I wasn't looking.

 

HELP!

P1030216.JPG

:rolleyes:

Holy cow!  This thing is stuck on tight.  Do I need to just yank until it comes free?  Yanking wires behind a plug makes me NERVOUS.

 

Three detents I can see in the plug cap.  Do I need to push all three down using all three of my arms?

 

I'm bordering on destroying the plug with pliers, tweezers, split ring pliers and a scratch awl.

 

The guy at the dealership popped it right off when I wasn't looking.

 

HELP!

 

There is a catch that holds the plug into the receptacle that you either aren't seeing or haven't properly activated.   The plug pulls out easily once you get it.  

Alright, I admit it....I'm dumb. 

 

My past experiences were relegated to re-mapping by way of pulling the carb and installing all new jets and needle.

 

On the flat side of the plug, facing outward, there is a tab at the junction between the plug and the plug housing that must be pulled outward (towards you) in order to release the plug.  After that, it was easy.  There's only one tab.

 

The GYTR power tuner directions are missing the point where I have to turn the bike on after connecting the tuner to the bike.

 

I installed a map by Mxyzptlk (that's probably not his real name) and rode around the yard in my trials garden.  Very nice.

Edited by Nuklhed

Alright, I admit it....I'm dumb. 

 

My past experiences were relegated to re-mapping by way of pulling the carb and installing all new jets and needle.

 

On the flat side of the plug, facing outward, there is a tab at the junction between the plug and the plug housing that must be pulled outward (towards you) in order to release the plug.  After that, it was easy.  There's only one tab.

 

The GYTR power tuner directions are missing the point where I have to turn the bike on after connecting the tuner to the bike.

 

I installed the big bottom hit map by Mxyzptlk (that's probably not his real name) and rode around the yard in my trials garden.  Very nice.

 

Don't be hard on yourself.   We've all been there.  At least you didn't pull hard.

 

I'd like to see that map.   Where did you get it from ?  How does your WR work as a trials bike ?  LOL.

Vlxjim Map ( not the big bottom hit map, just the first one I came across after searching for maps)

Fuel

3 4 4

3 5 3

3 4 3

Timing

0 0 0

-2 -1 0

-2 -2 0

 

I've got six maps to play with.   According to a tutorial I watched on youtube, positive fuel numbers and negative ignition numbers equal richness, which I hope means 'runs cooler.'

 

I've taken out the snorkels, put in the GYTR exhaust tip and comp ECU.  My local dealership removed the throttle stop right off the git-go.

Edited by Nuklhed

I grew up learning all kinds of bad habits. 

 

Gas it, never use the clutch, run the hardest rubber compound you can and never change the oil.

 

I have a few logs, holes, and rocks in the yard.  It ain't a great trials bike, but I'm re-learning to use the clutch (I use the crap out of it now), balance and go slow, pop-turns, and de-weight the front tire to climb over the logs.

 

I'd like a trials bike, but I'm afraid the rest of them will collect cobwebs if I do.

So are you running my map now (vlxjim map)?  It should run cool with great power all over with no hard hit.

I think it is running cooler, and thanks for the map, Jim.  I was riding just around the yard yesterday in 1st gear.  It didn't feel crazy hot, nor did I get any boil over in the coolant overflow and I didn't hear the gas tank percolating, either.

 

The only thing I might fiddle with is the fuel side just a little bit once I have the opportunity to take it for some longer rides that require MPG.

 

Thanks for the map!

Does the gytr ecu come preprogrammed? I picked up mine today and it said the tuner was needed? I suspect the new ecu has a zero map. Others have said that there is a big difference just by switching ecu's with no tuner. Can someone confirm

Does the gytr ecu come preprogrammed? I picked up mine today and it said the tuner was needed? I suspect the new ecu has a zero map. Others have said that there is a big difference just by switching ecu's with no tuner. Can someone confirm

 

You suspect correctly, it's all zeroes. And there is indeed a big difference between the comp ECU (with default all zeroes map) vs the stock ECU. However, most (myself included) find that stock map kind of snatchy and abrupt on the bottom. So yes custom maps are definitely the way to go, like vlxjim's up above. If you happen to have any buddies with FI WRs or YZFs, you could all share the same tuner no problem. It holds up to 9 maps and is easy to edit and upload to the bike.

Incidentally, I ran about 20 miles on that map above.  It wasn't so herky-jerky at lower engine speeds (when I really should have shifted up a gear).

 

I could see lust a little bit of red on the header pipe, not much.  Definitely smoother.

 

I'll run this one a bit and then try another vlxjim map that's just a bit less rich.

Edited by Nuklhed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now