HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
tophermac412

What chain and sprocket should I buy

12 posts in this topic

2013 yz450f.. I ride florida tracks.. not worried about light weight. I just want something that will last the longest..whats the best chain and sprocket?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run a renthal 520 R-1 works gold o-ring chain with 13 tooth front renthal steel sprocket and I've used a mix of rears, always steel.

I like the supersprox rear steel sprocket because it's black and only $39.99 on rmatv.

Right now I have a sunstar 520 works-z rear steel and it is also working well but double the price. This sprocket is odd, wasn't expecting it to look like it does. Each tooth is staggered side to side for better mud clearing they say. I wouldn't be able to notice the difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Honestly the best kit:  http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/3179/9655/Primary-Drive-Alloy-Kit-%26-X-Ring-Chain?v=10891

 

Here is the description in case the link doesn't work:  It's out of stock for a reason.  

Primary Drive Alloy Kit & X-Ring Chain $104.99 

 

The key to sprocket life is the chain.  The reason for an alloy sprocket in the back is much less un-sprung weight, and you are going to replace it with the chain anyway. If you want different gearing (or if you want it now) you will have to buy the components separately.  The reason I recommend the Primary Drive stuff is because I use it, and I replace chains and sprockets a lot less than I used to.  That said I won't argue with torkd14's choice of a Renthal o-ring.  I am sure it is a very high quality chain.  The reason for the rings is to keep lube between the rollers and pins, and to keep grit out.  That's why they last so long.  The longer the chain lasts, the longer the sprockets will last.  I am sure horsepower losses are measurable, but my guess is they are fractional.  Probably in the .25 or lower range.  Cleaning an o-ring chain requires washing as normal and spraying with WD-40.  In other words, maintenance free in my experience.    

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The reason for an alloy sprocket in the back is much less un-sprung weight

I understand and appreciate all of your points, except this. Please explain/elaborate on the unsprung weight thing and why it is more important than the other weight on the bike or rider.

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ironman sprockets and DID ERV3 chain. Not cheap but unbeatable for longevity IMO.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ironman sprockets and DID ERV3 chain. Not cheap but unbeatable for longevity IMO.

Beautiful words spoken above

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can't beat ironman sprockets from dirt tricks. I used one set paired with a Regina z ring chain for over 200 hours. The front sprocket was toast but the chain and rear sprocket were still in excellent shape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand and appreciate all of your points, except this. Please explain/elaborate on the unsprung weight thing and why it is more important than the other weight on the bike or rider.

Thanks.

 

Ideally, the suspension would work so well that the wheels would follow the ground contour perfectly while the bike went along dead level without moving vertically at all.  As you visualize this happening, you see the wheels moving vertically up over obstacles and down again.  As the wheel runs up a rise, it will have inertia that will try to make it keep moving upward when it gets to the top instead of dropping down the slope on the other side, and that inertia is a direct product of the wheel's weight.  It's simple, the heavier the wheel assembly is, the harder it is for the suspension to control well.

 

Two things wear a sprocket: dirt between the sprocket and chain, and a chain that's worn out of spec.  You can avoid the dirt thing to a great extent by using a good, low tack chain lube, like Maxima 's Synthetic Chain Guard.  Lube the chain at least 8 hours before you ride, and it will collect very little trail junk.  Review the procedure in your service manual for measuring chain wear and ditch the chain before it goes over 2% longer than new, and you can make most aluminum sprockets last for over a year. 

 

I use Regina ORN-6 chains with Tag Metals hard anodized rear sprockets and medium priced fronts (currently a Pro-Circuit).  This setup lasts me nearly two years of desert racing.  The chain just doesn't wear much at all, and by the time it is stretched enough to replace, the chain guides have worn the top and bottom edges of the plates nearly down to the rollers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0