Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
wizbangdoodle

Coolant and additives for hot slow riding

23 posts in this topic

I recently went on one of the toughest rides I've ever been on and my bike overheated several times. I've had an '06, '07 and now the '12 WR450. Never had a problem with overheating before this ride. It was a constant climb or descent on a very narrow singletrack on the side of a mountain. Many times, one little slip could send you for quite a fall. The steep dropoff plays havoc with your mind and I was riding very slow.

 

My question is, what coolant and/or additives do you guys run to make the bike resist overheating and boilover?  From my experience with cars, guys would run water wetter to keep things cool. Anything like that for our bikes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You've probably just opened Pandora's box.....

 

As opposed to remedying the boilover by increasing the boiling point of your coolant, I think you want to look at the cause of heat build-up.

 

I had a similar experience in some single track here, which my boilover cause was me moving too slow and abusing the crap out of my clutch.  I went with the Boyesen water pump impeller and cover replacement first.  If the problem persists, I may look at putting a fan on one of the rads, but I have not done that yet.

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1.3 to 1.6 radiator cap

Non-water based coolant (Engine Ice)

A thermostaticallhy triggered fan

and a RE MAP and FLOWING EXAHAUST so the heat can actually get out.....

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine Ice is pre-mixed at a 1:1 ratio with de-ionized (DI) water and Propylene glycol.

 

I use Engine Ice, my vlxiim map, CO set at 15, RPM's set at 1950, uni air filter and  FMF Q4. I ride in 90+ temps with no boil over. The bike E starts hot or cold in gear there no red hot header either. Don't know your map but if it has the timing bumped up thats part of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the oversized water pump. They also sell high flow radiators that make your bike run like 30%cooler. I plan on doing this upgrade myself soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the oversized water pump. They also sell high flow radiators that make your bike run like 30%cooler. I plan on doing this upgrade myself soon.

 

 

term=boyesen%20supercoolerhttp://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/928/724/Boyesen-Supercooler-Water-Pump-Cover-and-Impeller-Kit?term=boyesen%20supercooler

 

Read the reviews.  Pro race teams use them.  WR already has big radiators and replacements like Fluidyne are very expensive.  You could also add a fan.

 

Richen your fuel mapping too, if you haven't already.  Use Water Wetter with 50/50 ethylene glycol/distilled water.

Edited by Navaho6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions. Bike is running a stock map right now. I plan on getting a tuner soon. Can be a bit difficult to start. 

 

I'll probably start with the Engine Ice and maybe a fan, retune and go from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can run a mix of 25:75 or even 20:80 antifreeze:distilled water and your system will run much cooler. This is due to the much better cooling efficiency of water. You still get excellent corrosion inhibition, and you can change back to 50:50 when you aren't running super slow trails if you really feel it is necessary.

 

NOTE: Your biggest worry when running these low antifreeze numbers is a lack of freeze protection. This should not be a problem if used specifically for slow, hot rides. Just remember that if you have cold winters, you need to up your percent of antifreeze if your bike is stored out in the elements.

 

If you want to learn about this, there is a pretty good tutorial here:

http://www.landscapeirrigation.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=6E97F308E781406A8DFB81C4ADA42C49&AudID=CC89A83758524B50A259F8625D73475B

Edited by LSHD
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would do what Dunmire suggests above before anything

I'd look into a bigger water pump. I think Boyesen (spelling) makes one

it looks like the impeller is just bigger and flings more water

Fits right inside the existing engine case

Small, simple bolt-on that should help things alot

I would start there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have heard alot of people talk about a fan

I have a hard time imagining a home crafted one that does not look like a hack cheese-job

It will probably work, but I bet they look like a POS

 

Does any aftermarket company make a nice one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i just use a cheap 12V computer fan wired to a switch attached to the back of the radiator.  it hides nicely behind the shroud and when I get slow I flick the swtich and get a little extra cooling.  I just zip tie it to the back of the radiator.  Can't see it at all.  They are like $5-10 bucks and if they get wet too many times they stop working.  But since cheap install not a big deal.  I Run a standard 1.1 cap.  Remember that increasing the cap pressure stops it from boiling but it doesn't stop it from getting hotter. Boiling the coolant actually helps to not overheat the motor as the heat is going into the boiling not going into rasing temp higher.  But if you boil it dry now you're screwed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have heard alot of people talk about a fan

I have a hard time imagining a home crafted one that does not look like a hack cheese-job

It will probably work, but I bet they look like a POS

 

Does any aftermarket company make a nice one?

 

Post #2 in this thread is the fan I put on my WR450...

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/886354-cooling-fans-and-amp-draw-on-wr450f/

 

That is with a water resistant SPAL fan that is designed for the job.   Serveral years later of use and abuse in

harsh conditions (Philippines--  HOTHOTHOT and wet!)  it still works like when it was brand new.

 

I wouldn't even bother with a computer fan.   It will not move enough air to have much effect and it will not last

very long.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the fan idea. Computer fan wouldn't last 5 minutes the way I ride, so it will have to be SPAL. Engine Ice is also going to be added. I have to flush the system since I topped off my overflow bottle with creek water :jawdrop:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 i recently found a muffin fan (like a computer or cabinet fan) listed on e-bay that has had a special waterproofing done to it.

 

 Picked one up and fabbed up a couple brackets. Clean mount, small size, fit right behind right lower radiator, and kicks butt! Just opted for an on/off switch as it is  not needed if up out of first gear and moving along to where you have some air going through the radiators.

 

 I did add a sort of heavy screen to the BACKSIDE cause I know otherwise it would have been a matter of time till I jam a branch, stick, or rock into it and the fan blades are pretty brittle so a little more work was needed to make it bulletproof.

 

 BEST of all, it was only a little over 30 bucks, shipping included! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make sure that you flush your system with 50/50 vinegar and water run the bike for a few minutes and then empty. Flush one more time with distilled water run the bike and empty. Now the bike is ready for engine ice. This is what the manufacture of engine ice recommends I've done this processed all my bikes it's not that hard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make sure that you flush your system with 50/50 vinegar and water run the bike for a few minutes and then empty. Flush one more time with distilled water run the bike and empty. Now the bike is ready for engine ice. This is what the manufacture of engine ice recommends I've done this processed all my bikes it's not that hard.

Thanks for that suggestion. Probably would have just emptied and refilled had I not read this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine ice is great but I have nine WRs and it gets a bit expensive.

After extensive research I have been using this in my bikes:

 

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/fleetguard-cummins-cc2835/antifreeze-coolant-es-pg-50-50-pre-mix-gallon-p-v52-cc2835

It is the same thing as engine ice (Propylene Glycol) at half the price. It is even the same color.

 

Also, you don't need to buy it online or pay through the nose at the bike shop since any Cummins diesel shop or most truck stops of reasonable size should have it also.

Works great in the hot conditions we ride in and if Cummins says it is good for 150,000 miles in a $100,000 diesel engine that is good enough for me.

We use diesel oil in the bikes also so let's just go full tilt heavy duty on all the bike fluids. Lol.

Just an alternative for folks to consider. ...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMO a fan is the only real solution. The basic problem you have in tight single track is that there is no air moving through the radiators. You can change coolant, etc but the engine temps will still be very high even if you do manage to prevent it from boiling. Here's a thread on an install I did on my '03.

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/733070-fan-on-a-wr450/?hl=%2Bfan#entry7515564

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine ice is great but I have nine WRs and it gets a bit expensive.

After extensive research I have been using this in my bikes:

 

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/fleetguard-cummins-cc2835/antifreeze-coolant-es-pg-50-50-pre-mix-gallon-p-v52-cc2835

It is the same thing as engine ice (Propylene Glycol) at half the price. It is even the same color.

 

Also, you don't need to buy it online or pay through the nose at the bike shop since any Cummins diesel shop or most truck stops of reasonable size should have it also.

Works great in the hot conditions we ride in and if Cummins says it is good for 150,000 miles in a $100,000 diesel engine that is good enough for me.

We use diesel oil in the bikes also so let's just go full tilt heavy duty on all the bike fluids. Lol.

Just an alternative for folks to consider. ...

 

The link you gave is for a 50/50 premix.   The Evans stuff is 100% PG.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0