Problem with 14 450s

Yer all good I figured it out It was clicked onto that pin thing as it was changing gears but I just don't think it was quite on their properly hard to explain but I just took the case off tried shifting and it was fine so put the case back on and all good lol shifts and works fine now seems smoother aswell too find nuetral and changing gears

20160611_205123.jpg

 

Please be aware that the shift stop lever in the 14' 450's is the exact same defective part in that is in the 14' 250's. This happened to mine at 30 hours. Thankfully I had a magnetic drain plug that pulled all the pieces into the bottom of the motor and kept them from destroying it. 

Just be aware if you slide the shifter side to slide while checking the functions the shaft with the arrow (shifter) can slide right and disconnect the pin it hooks on . And if you put it together with it disconnected you won't be able to shift.. ask me how I know -_- but I pulled it apart fixed it all is good scared the s&&$# out of me :D

The exact same thing happened to me. For some reason I did not find your comment, even though I searched for hours trying to find out why my shifter suddenly stopped working. I had not put mine together yet. I just kept tinkering with it until somehow I figured out what had happened. I was laying on the ground looking up into the motor and finally saw it. It was very hard to see. 

Edited by JDrider

Yeah the stoppet arm with the ball bearing seems like a solid piece ..like it would take a lot to bust it but I don't mind spending 30$ to possibly prevent a much more expensive repair. And a plus it shifts easier and its easier to find natural .

Yeah I wished this was true but it is not. I bought the 250 and 450 both 14's. I changed the shift stopper on the 250 right away but because of comments like this one and others saying "I have not heard of it happening on the 450" I left it alone. At 30 the lever fell to pieces and could have destroyed my motor. I realize I am responding in 2016 and very few 14's out there are under 30 hours but if anyone has a 14 and has not changed this part DO IT! 

20160611_205123.jpg
Edited by JDrider

Yeah i have 88 hrs on my bike now all well! Glad someone found good use of my write up. I compaired part numbers between the 14 250&450 and i beleve they were the same thats why i went and did it asap.

250 hrs on the oem part! Still working perfect.

I just changed mine two weeks ago. I will say that it shifts into neutral much nicer, and goes into the gears nicer when not using the clutch to shift. I figured might as well do it since I was in there installing the Boyesen water pump. Cheep insurance.

250 hrs on the oem part! Still working perfect.

nice! Have you done the top end? Piston valves or anything?

No top end yet, check valves often and replace cam chain. Service suspension that's it. I also have a 11 yz 450 with just over 600 hrs on it still running original piston and rings. Do not ride it much anymore but it is a nice backup bike.

Finally got around to putting the new shift stopper in. Easier than I expected. If you use a zip tie to hold the spring on the stopper it makes it actually possible to install. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408259240.320783.jpg

That shows how I used the zip tie to hold everything together as well as compress the spring.

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408259309.873435.jpg

Old vs new

 

About to do this update on my 2014.

 

3 things:

 

- There appears to be yet ANOTHER part number for the 2016 model.  It doesn't look like a part number to supercede/rev the previous one, but a different part number entirely.  Anyone changed to the 2016 part?  Any backwards compatibility issues?

 

- Am I correct seeing that you don't have to take out the clutch to access and swap this piece?  I recall reading that the clutch DID have to come out, but it would be convenient if it didn't.  Anything else in the shift linkage?  I specifically do not want to deal with that barrel with the bearing balls and springs if I can avoid it.

 

- Which other parts are required?  Bolt?  Spring?  Anything else?

 

Thanks in advance.

About to do this update on my 2014.

3 things:

- There appears to be yet ANOTHER part number for the 2016 model. It doesn't look like a part number to supercede/rev the previous one, but a different part number entirely. Anyone changed to the 2016 part? Any backwards compatibility issues?

- Am I correct seeing that you don't have to take out the clutch to access and swap this piece? I recall reading that the clutch DID have to come out, but it would be convenient if it didn't. Anything else in the shift linkage? I specifically do not want to deal with that barrel with the bearing balls and springs if I can avoid it.

- Which other parts are required? Bolt? Spring? Anything else?

Thanks in advance.

I replaced my shift stopper with 2016 parts. New stopper/bolt/spring. Didn't have to remove the clutch. Just undo the bolt pull out the old assembly, put some loctite on the new bolt and tighten it up.

And another thing. If you're going that far in replace the impeller with the 16 updated part too.

Awesome, thanks so much.

 

Here is my driving reason for taking the case off....Boyesen kit on the way with new impeller.  Already on it.

 

What happened there?

What happened there?

 

Peaky fire road roller single kinda thing that I aired off of.  Blind, but knew the area and the feature well.  Hikers put up boulder booby traps on the landing.  Had to bail and the bike fell onto the skidplate/water pump.  Got very lucky.  Had to get towed out 12 miles.

I replaced my shift stopper with 2016 parts. New stopper/bolt/spring. Didn't have to remove the clutch. Just undo the bolt pull out the old assembly, put some loctite on the new bolt and tighten it up.

Quick question. Just bought a used 2014 YZ450F. I got the 2015 replacement shift stopper and screw.

-What is the impeller you are talking about?

-Also I got the 2015 shift stopper, any advantages to the 2016?

Quick question. Just bought a used 2014 YZ450F. I got the 2015 replacement shift stopper and screw.

-What is the impeller you are talking about?

-Also I got the 2015 shift stopper, any advantages to the 2016?

I believe the 2015 shift stopper had a single arm attached to the updated wheel mechanism and the 2016 had a double arm on both sides. The impeller spins inside the water pump moving coolant through the system. The part was updated in 2016 with holes drilled through it to equalize pressure on both sides. Yamaha says the advantage is to put less pressure on the water pump seal.

Since you have to take the case cover off to replace the shift stopper you might as well do the impeller too.

I bought a used 2014 with quite a few hours on it. The bearing was starting to get a little loose. Here are some pics using the 2016, 2017 shift stopper and new spring.

IMG_0565.JPG IMG_0566.JPG

You really need to use a zip tie to compress the new spring on the shift stopper in order to get it situated and I used a small Phillips through the center of the screw hole to align everything. Make sure the spacer goes behind the shift stopper in between it and the spring.

Also the shift shaft that is above the shift stopper comes off the shift lever roller pretty easily during all of this as someone else mentioned previously in this thread so be sure and check that before you put the cover on. And after you put the cover back on and before you fill it with fluids check that the bike shifts through the gears and into neutral.

I bought a used 2014 with quite a few hours on it. The bearing was starting to get a little loose. Here are some pics using the 2016, 2017 shift stopper and new spring.

attachicon.gifIMG_0565.JPG attachicon.gifIMG_0566.JPG

You really need to use a zip tie to compress the new spring on the shift stopper in order to get it situated and I used a small Phillips through the center of the screw hole to align everything. Make sure the spacer goes behind the shift stopper in between it and the spring.

Also the shift shaft that is above the shift stopper comes off the shift lever roller pretty easily during all of this as someone else mentioned previously in this thread so be sure and check that before you put the cover on. And after you put the cover back on and before you fill it with fluids check that the bike shifts through the gears and into neutral.

I dont know why they just didnt go with that double arm design in the frirst place..

Also regarding the 2016, 2017 water pump impeller with the holes in it to reduce the likleyhood of a blown seal you can of course save $20 and drill holes in your 2014 impeller. 7/64" drill bit. I should of used a flash but you should be able to get an idea from the pics. 2016 OEM part on the left. You may want to get a new circlip For the back of the impeller.

IMG_0567.JPGIMG_0571.JPGIMG_0573.JPG

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