Stator- Similar Replacement?

Hey guys, 

Long time no see.

 

I managed to get my blown engine out of my road legal bike and attempted to remove my flywheel.

I damaged some of the copper wire in the stator doing so, and the flywheel still didn't come off with a puller.

 

So I got my 2000 WR400 into an engine specialist (He does hill climb race builds-  had an awesome 350hpicon1.png quad with a CBR900 RR engine and nitrous setup).  

 

He said the stator will be shot, and that it's going to be $980 to replace a welded counterbalance bearing, fix my galled threads on the flywheel (from failed pull attempt).  The piston and Nikasil sleeve were fine, but he wants to replace the piston anyway due to the hours on bike.  Though I was in sticker shock I'm proceeding with this rebuild.

 

The problem is, I've hit a brick wall finding a stator.  I can't really afford $300 for a new OEMreplacement, and so far I've been turned down on re-wires.

 

Is there any compatible stator for this bike that is drop in, or a slight mod and will be cheaper?  Does anyone have one for sale? This rebuild broke my savings, and is breaking my heart since she's my favorite ride.

 

Thanks!

Edited by IndyHooligan

Hey guys, 

Long time no see.

 

I managed to get my blown engine out of my road legal bike and attempted to remove my flywheel.

I damaged some of the copper wire in the stator doing so, and the flywheel still didn't come off with a puller.

 

So I got my 2000 WR400 into an engine specialist (He does hill climb race builds-  had an awesome 350hpicon1.png quad with a CBR900 RR engine and nitrous setup).  

 

He said the stator will be shot, and that it's going to be $980 to replace a welded counterbalance bearing, fix my galled threads on the flywheel (from failed pull attempt).  The piston and Nikasil sleeve were fine, but he wants to replace the piston anyway due to the hours on bike.  Though I was in sticker shock I'm proceeding with this rebuild.

 

The problem is, I've hit a brick wall finding a stator.  I can't really afford $300 for a new OEMreplacement, and so far I've been turned down on re-wires.

 

Is there any compatible stator for this bike that is drop in, or a slight mod and will be cheaper?  Does anyone have one for sale? This rebuild broke my savings, and is breaking my heart since she's my favorite ride.

 

Thanks!

Would one off of a 2007 work?

The stator is unique to the WR400, we stock the OEM one for $275

I found one on eBay 2 weeks ago for $150. I jumped at the offer because even tho it wasn't cheap, I know I wouldn't have found anything cheaper.

Another way to justify cutting the check is to try to find a cheap parts bike on CL for like $600 and go that route.

Alright dudes, my bike is nearly resurrected.  The stator will be $230 plus shipping. 

I bought a flywheel from Fleabay. The old stator and new flywheel test proved a glovelike fit so I just need the replacement stator.

 

Here's my dilemma:  When I look at the parts fiche for a 2000 WR400, I see a woodruff key and a bearing that should go in somewhere.  See this fiche--- Part #7

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2000/WR400F+-+WR400FM/CRANKSHAFT+PISTON/parts.html

 

My crank already has a raised spine where the woodruff key would go (looks like it was formed, not inserted).

It also does not look like I could fit any bearing in between the stator coils and the flywheel.  The man who pulled apart my engine put pulled parts aside and I see no bearing in there.

 

Is this bearing even supposed to go on?  I want to make sure I put this back together right so when I kick it fires instead of instant death to my $$$ rebuild.  Also does anyone know where I can get replacement dowel pins for the oil tubes? Thanks!

Edited by IndyHooligan

The bearing (item #7) you see is on the crank, pressed into the case on the inside.. You can possibly just see the races and balls of the bearing if you peer straight in.

 

The key is a must have. Post a picture of your current crank with the 'raised spline'. I'll bet the the 'raised spline' is the key, just stuck to the crank. I'd replace it. Usually, a few gentle taps with ahammer and punch will pop it out.

The metal in question is very long, bright finish and looks forged with the crank.  I appreciate the rapid feedback.  I will post a picture later tonight.  At least I don't have to put a bearing in! Whew!

Edited by IndyHooligan

Sorry it took so long.  I guess I will need a metric woodruff key if that's indeed what this is?  I have seen only English standard sizes available?

 

2000_WRCrankshaft.jpg

 

2000_WRCrankshaft2.jpg

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