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ManilaMike

Brakes

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One thing you can do for stock brakes is go with a sintered break pad. I noticed a very good improvement in stopping power over OEM. The next thing would replace the rotor. You can get sintered brake pads at rockymtnatv for 10.00 and their great, 4 1/2 starts for the reviews.

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Sintered pads are only good for short stops, and they heat up the fastest, so feel is not as good as stock.

If you do any long down hills the sintered pads will actually grind down the discs and overheat tho brake fluid

EBC Carbon (natural) pads last longer than stock but give a stock feel.

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Sintered pads are only good for short stops, and they heat up the fastest, so feel is not as good as stock.

If you do any long down hills the sintered pads will actually grind down the discs and overheat tho brake fluid

EBC Carbon (natural) pads last longer than stock but give a stock feel.

 

Not in my experience

The amount of heat generated has nothing to do with whether the pad is sintered or not.

Heat generated is the result of friction (whether it comes come a sintered pad or organic) - its the conversion of kinetic energy into heat energy by the brake pad/disc friction

Sintered pads are generally higher friction rated so this maybe where you believe they generate more heat

I've never seen a HH rated organic pad

 

Lots of OE pads are sintered anyway

 

I always use DP pads in normal compound (GG)

No brake fade

No brake dust

Kind to discs

 

It is generally acknowledge that the OE pad will last longest and cuase least wear to the disc, as the compound is developed in conjunction with the disc material, but they cost more than an aftermarket pad

 

My OE pads (front) lasted 5K miles

My OE rear pads lasted 4.5K miles

 

I replaced them with Dunlopad DP pads and both are still in there with the bike now having 7.5K miles, but I can tell they won't match the OE mileage

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EBC organic pads were some of the worst I've ever used - terrible fade, and loads of dust. Even they went over to sintered

 

DP pads have a sprayed on ceramic heatshield, to prevent heat transfer from the pad to the piston and hence into the fluid

 

Never had DP pads fade, not even on trackdays on my SV1000, at heavy braking circuits like Mallory Park & Anglesey

 

To the OP, you won't go wrong with modern sintered pads or OE pads

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EBC organic pads were some of the worst I've ever used - terrible fade, and loads of dust. Even they went over to sintered

DP pads have a sprayed on ceramic heatshield, to prevent heat transfer from the pad to the piston and hence into the fluid

Never had DP pads fade, not even on trackdays on my SV1000, at heavy braking circuits like Mallory Park & Anglesey

To the OP, you won't go wrong with modern sintered pads or OE pads

Have you seen the problems KoolAide mentions with long down hill ride with breaks over heating with sintered pads? I haven't seen that issue, but I'm not sure if I have ever checked. I try to use engine breaking as much as possible then my brakes. As I mentioned I prefer the sintered over stock, atleast in my experience.

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Agree with the comment about EBC pads...   was not impressed at all for the reasons mentioned.

 

Stock pads last forever but the braking action and feel is not optimal.   Sintered pads brake much better but as a

result they wear out faster.   Something has to give in exchange for the better braking and in this case it is the

pads.   Better the pads than the rotor...

 

Have had brake fade with sintered pads but only on extremely long downhills where engine braking alone is not

enough to control the speed of the bike.  

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Have you seen the problems KoolAide mentions with long down hill ride with breaks over heating with sintered pads? I haven't seen that issue, but I'm not sure if I have ever checked. I try to use engine breaking as much as possible then my brakes. As I mentioned I prefer the sintered over stock, atleast in my experience.

 

Never had brake fade, either on dirt or on the track, with DP pads

Track bike front discs have been blue from the heat and not faded - deep blue indicates disc temps of 300°C (600°F) plus

Never had the discs on the WR even start to dis-colour (indicating heat) let alone fade, which means they aren't getting past 200°C.

 

Most brake fade comes from brake fliud that hasn't been changed and has absorbed moisture, which once the fluid reaches 100°c, starts to boil , creates gas and results in a spongy lever

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