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YZ450F2014

wich bolts am I suppost to grease?

4 posts in this topic

Hi

 

Bought a new bike a few weeks back and I noticed the bolts is completely dry. 

Am I suppost to grease all bolts or is it some bolts that is suppost to be dry?

 

Does the grease change the torque the bolts and nuts is suppost beeing mounted with?

 

Sorry for my english.. english is my second language.

 

Thank you in advance

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Yeah, well, my Swedish completely sucks, so don't feel bad.

 

Bolts?  Not sure, but you may be using the wrong word for what you are talking about.   "Bolts" in English means the threaded fasteners that hold things together.  "Screws", or "cap screws" is another way to say it.  Normally, unless the service manual calls for oil or grease to be applied, they should be assembled and tightened "clean and dry".  Relatively few of the bolts, screws, or nuts call for any thread lube.

 

Axles, including the swing arm pivot shaft, should be greased lightly to help keep them from sticking in place from rust and such.

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I'm a mechanical engineer and remember crossing this bridge when studying materials science.

If you really want to look into it then check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

 

My rule of thumb is anti seize on anything with threads, thread locker on things that can't afford to come loose, grease on things that need to move :thumbsup: 

 

Depending on what materials you are threading into each other, you need to use the right anti seize or you could be in for a surprise next time you try loosen the bolt :banghead:

From experience, if you hear a 'cracking sound' when loosening a fastener...then you should have probably used anti seize and now is a good time to start :naughty:

One of the many reasons anti seize is better than plain grease is the fact that it is designed to have a very low coefficient of friction, which does not effect the torque setting as much.

Its probably highly likely that the torque setting was specified with anti seize present anyway.

 

Some issues with anti-seize products may arise from improper application.

To correctly apply an anti-seize product the following parts must be covered in order to protect both metals:

 

  • under the head of the bolt
  • the plain part of the bolt
  • the thread
  • the face and both sides of the nut
  • all parts of the washer (if one is used)

By covering all these areas there is no opportunity for metal-on-metal contact and this therefore eliminates the risk of seizing.

Essentially there should be a film of anti-seize between every surface to surface contact.

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Its probably highly likely that the torque setting was specified with anti seize present anyway.

 

 

In Yamaha 's case, that is expressly incorrect.  The manual specifies "clean, dry" threads unless something else is called for.

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