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Mtrain730

Yup I did it stripped threads on rear shock.

8 posts in this topic

So ill get right too the point lock ring moves fine but preload ring was hard to turn. I did do a stupid move and was able too bang on it and force it a couple turns. I think I can see some sheered off threads right under the collar. I know that I'm not the first person to do this I have done some searches. My question I guess is what is the best route to go when I decide to fix it I might wait until the end of the season because my sag is actually where I want it. I don't think ill tackle this my self because I'm so pissed I don't even want to deal with it and I'm in the process of moving and don't really have a place to work on it. Factory connection said they might be able to fix it or replace the shock body they said they have a machine that can fix the threads if there not to bad I don't know if there machine is just a file. Any input where too go from here would be appreciated sag is set ok but would like too at least have a fully operational shock sag adjustment at some point. Hopefully there is a some what budget friendly way too resolve this.

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If the ring is still stuck first thing to do is get some sort of lube on everything. Then get the rings screwed up to get the spring off. A small triangular file and wire brush might be needed to get everything moving and apart. Then I'd just make a spacer or get a spacer made to go between the preload ring and spring. You can then set the spring to the original length but your preload ring / lock ring will wind up higher on the shock threads that were previously unused. Only problem is you might have to slightly compress the spring to get the bottom lock on depending on the thickness of the spacer. Clay

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If the ring is still stuck first thing to do is get some sort of lube on everything. Then get the rings screwed up to get the spring off. A small triangular file and wire brush might be needed to get everything moving and apart. Then I'd just make a spacer or get a spacer made to go between the preload ring and spring. You can then set the spring to the original length but your preload ring / lock ring will wind up higher on the shock threads that were previously unused. Only problem is you might have to slightly compress the spring to get the bottom lock on depending on the thickness of the spacer. Clay

I actually can move the ring what I'm afraid of is the ring is cross threaded and I'm shearing threads off as I spin the ring towards the top of the shock. It is not spinning easy I have too really hammer on it too get it to move. I'm afraid if I do manage to spin the rings up far enough to pull the spring off I will have destroyed more threads than I already have destroying the shock body.

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I obviously can't see what's goin on behind the preload ring but I assume by how hard its turning its cross threaded and the more I turn the more threads I'm shearing off. If there is a fighting chance of being able to salvage the shock body I don't want to destroy more threads.

Edited by Mtrain730

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Getting some lube in should help the situation but if it has indeed gotten crossed up there is another way out. Get a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and split the preload / lock ring. You could just grind the rings until they split also. Do 2 spots 180 apart. There is spring tension but it won't really go anywhere as it'll still be contained just watch your fingers. Be careful and pay close attention and don't cut into the shock body and cause more damage. Going this route you'll of course have to get new rings but you still can save the shock. Clay

Edited by nuity5
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Thought of another possible way. You could go by Advance, Autozone, etc. and rent a spring compressor. Not sure it'd grab a shock spring but you could take the shock with you to try. Compressing the spring (there's shouldn't be a ton of preload on it - around 10 mm give or take if the spring was correct for your weight) would get all the load off the preload nut and might allow you to get it freed up without having to split it or messing up any more threads. Clay

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The same thing happened to me.  Fortunately, my shock was due for service anyway  so I sent it to Factory Connection.   They told me this occurs because the stock spring is too soft for people my weight and ability (I'm 185 lbs, vet B) and people have to run too much preload to get the race sag correct.  They recommended a 6.1 spring and under 6mm of preload.  I was concerned about using such a stiff spring but went for it along with their revalve.  I also changed the fork springs from .47 to .49.   After playing with the fork clickers some (reduced compression and raised oil height)  I love how the suspension works now. They were able to cut off the old preload spacer and fix up the threads.  I can easily turn the spring to adjust preload now.  You may not want to go the full revalve route but i thought everyone would like to know that FC can fix the cross threading if it's not too bad and their thoughts on why it is occurring.          

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The same thing happened to me. Fortunately, my shock was due for service anyway so I sent it to Factory Connection. They told me this occurs because the stock spring is too soft for people my weight and ability (I'm 185 lbs, vet B) and people have to run too much preload to get the race sag correct. They recommended a 6.1 spring and under 6mm of preload. I was concerned about using such a stiff spring but went for it along with their revalve. I also changed the fork springs from .47 to .49. After playing with the fork clickers some (reduced compression and raised oil height) I love how the suspension works now. They were able to cut off the old preload spacer and fix up the threads. I can easily turn the spring to adjust preload now. You may not want to go the full revalve route but i thought everyone would like to know that FC can fix the cross threading if it's not too bad and their thoughts on why it is occurring.

thanks for the input fc actually already revalved my suspenion for me recently ( 180 pound novice). I kept my stock springs because they said they would work for me. I'm thinking it was just dirty threads on the shock body that caused this but I could be wrong.

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