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MyersAvionics

Rekluse 3.0 kit

22 posts in this topic

Really tough harescramble over the weekend and this is the 2nd time that my clutch and bike just got over heated. So after the 2nd DNF after running top 5, i gotta do something. 

 

Has anyone used this before?: http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/Rekluse-EXP-30-Clutch-Kit

 

Sounds like a pretty good upgrade for the really tough courses. For myself i really enjoy races like The Moose Run so i'm thinking this could be a good purchase so i quit having issues. 

 

Does anyone know what kind of heat this thing generates? It seems like it has a pretty good lifespan lasting on average 350hours. Anyway, just looking for some advise from other WR owners out there that use it. 

 

The main reason it overheated was there was just too many people on the course and there was a ton of bottlenecks on about 5 sections. The WR was a champ though before it overheated. Where there would be a bike graveyard on a mud hill ranging from 50-80ft, the bike would just pull right up it without any issues.

 

Best part were the guys on their Beta and KTM 300's that would see the big WR ride right past them while they were stuck in a ravine. 

Edited by MyersAvionics

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I would put on OS radiators and a fan, before a Rekluse

 

If you keep it in the right gear (not too high) it will not over heat the clutch.

 

I haven't seen oversized radiators for the 2012+ bikes. IMO they're already pretty darned big. 

 

I'm just thinking a Rekluse now since it does need a new clutch and if it helps it run cooler that's even better. 

 

As far as gearing, i put a 53 on the back so i could run 2nd/3rd more. I think the neutral on this bike is a bit too wide for my liking. I was having to slip the clutch a lot this last race mainly because of all the bottlenecks. I think there was just too many people this time as you can see below:

10348525_864598795617_282812089857851193
 
I wasn't having any issues get through the rough stuff with it over heating. It would just start to overheat soon as i had to stop and work my way past the crowd sitting on their bikes not going forward because they were stuck and/or scared to try the section even. I wish i had my GoPro on, but being 6'2'' I always get it caught in trees. 
Edited by MyersAvionics

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I haven't seen oversized radiators for the 2012+ bikes. IMO they're already pretty darned big. 

 

I'm just thinking a Rekluse now since it does need a new clutch and if it helps it run cooler that's even better. 

 

As far as gearing, i put a 53 on the back so i could run 2nd/3rd more. I think the neutral on this bike is a bit too wide for my liking. I was having to slip the clutch a lot this last race mainly because of all the bottlenecks. I think there was just too many people this time as you can see below:

10348525_864598795617_282812089857851193
 
I wasn't having any issues get through the rough stuff with it over heating. It would just start to overheat soon as i had to stop and work my way past the crowd sitting on their bikes not going forward because they were stuck and/or scared to try the section even. I wish i had my GoPro on, but being 6'2'' I always get it caught in trees. 

 

Here are some oversized....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/high-performance-aluminum-alloy-radiator-yamaha-WR450F-WRF450-WR-450F-2012-2013-/111197360740?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e3e11264&vxp=mtr#ht_1526wt_1614

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DNFing on a WR ? Come on let's put a little more antifreeze in her so she doesn't overheat. In our group we do really big hills and have to run straight anti-freeze or the bikes would be toast. :ride:

Edited by stevethe

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DNFing on a WR ? Come on let's put a little more antifreeze in her so she doesn't overheat. In our group we do really big hills and have to run straight anti-freeze or the bikes would be toast. :ride:

 

I'm running engine ice exclusively. It worked great until i ran into bottlenecks. Just trying to sift your way through the crowd to go up the hill or get past the obstacle is when it overheated. Making some changes these next couple weeks before racing it to try to fix it. I also ordered the EXP 3.0 Rekluse clutch to help it out. 

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I'm running engine ice exclusively. It worked great until i ran into bottlenecks. Just trying to sift your way through the crowd to go up the hill or get past the obstacle is when it overheated. Making some changes these next couple weeks before racing it to try to fix it. I also ordered the EXP 3.0 Rekluse clutch to help it out. 

What jetting do you run?  I also run engine ice and I have just switched to the oversized radiators (but have been using the Ice since day 1).  The only reason I switched the rads though was due to physical damage and the China oversized were only $100 with a new hose kit.

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Which map are you running and have you corrected the idle air/fuel mixture ?

 

What makes you think that the clutch over heated the engine ?  Maybe the engine over heated and then couldn't keep the clutch cool ?

 

What was your average speed when bottlenecked ?

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If you run straight antifreeze like we have to it will not boil over. I use it in every bike I own without a fan. The street bikes with thermostatically controlled fans don't need it. The problem is once you run the coolant out you are at risk of ruining your head or you have to stop and put straight water in. Then take at easy going back.

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I didn't lose a ton of coolant, but i did have to add some back when i got home.

 

I'm running the following for mapping:

 

Fuel

+2 +3 +3

+2 +4 +4

+2 +4 +4

 

Ignition

+2 +2 +1

+3 +2 +2

+3 +3 +3

Works great and i really like the power delivery. 

 

There were four factors that induced the overheating:

  1. I stupidly forgot to remove the counter sprocket guard so mud was just completely packed in around it and was generating a massive amount of heat
  2. My radiators were 1/3 packed in the front full of mud
  3. The clutch overheated and was unusable after trying to get through bottlenecks
  4. Too many people on the course at once and they mixed all the classes so on the 2nd lap you had tons of beginners stuck and blocking up the trail. 

My average speed when bottlenecked was zero. When there were no other line choices i would often make my own within the rule limits of District 22 racing, but often I would have to creep forward and try to make my way past all the onlookers that were stuck. That's the only area i would overheat. After i would get past, i would get some speed going and the bike would be happy until i got to the next bottleneck. 

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If you run straight antifreeze like we have to it will not boil over. I use it in every bike I own without a fan. The street bikes with thermostatically controlled fans don't need it. The problem is once you run the coolant out you are at risk of ruining your head or you have to stop and put straight water in. Then take at easy going back.

Are you suggesting straight antifreeze will run cooler than water?

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Continually slipping the clutch will generate a lot of heat.   Were you going so slow that it was continually slipping ?  Could you gear the bike slower ?

 

Is your clutch adjusted correctly so that it isn't dragging when pulled in ?

 

The EFI WR450s idle really hot.  Have you adjusted your idle CO ?

 

It sounds to me like you had all the factors working against you.   Very slow speed, lots of clutch slipping, rads packed with mud.  What you need is cooling when the bike is near a standstill.   The best thing for that is a fan.  I'm going to add one myself.

 

A packed countershaft sprocket guard will create a lot of drag, but it isn't the end of the world.

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The countershaft drag just caused me to slip the clutch more in rough stuff to avoid stalling and added insulation for more heating really. In the pic below, you can't even see the thing... Plus the entire area around it was packed with sticks, weeds and mud. 

 

The clutch is adjusted pretty well. Has a bit of free play before engaging so it doesn't drag at all. Putting in a Rekluse Thursday hopefully so that won't matter anymore as it has to be adjusted for that purpose. What kind of fan's have you found that work well with the newer WR's?

 

10410626_864649813377_372080946910564571

Edited by MyersAvionics
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Are you suggesting straight antifreeze will run cooler than water?

 

No. But straight antifreeze does not boil over in my bikes. Once you boil out enough fluid to get low then they run very hot and chance's are you will ruin your top end if you keep going.  I run straight in the street supermoto and the dirt bikes otherwise it boils out. We do some extreme riding.

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For the record, I don't think the Rekluse is going to make any difference.   A slipping clutch is a slipping clutch, whether its done by hand or automagically.

 

Here is an interesting thread on fans (for the WR450): http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=102660

 

Water moves more heat than coolants, but it has a lower boiling point and once its gone, it doesn't move any.  Which is a big problem.

 

I've had mud packed like that too.   Generally the chain kind of burrows a tunnel through it and its not really that bad for drag.  Its more to be sure, but its not 10HP more sort of thing.  It might have been my imagination, but I thought my bike packed less mud in there after I removed the kick stand and the kick stand mount.   YZ pegs and peg mounts bolt right on to WRs.

 

Are you still running your boil off bottle ?  Was it boiling the fluid out of it ?   Is your rad cap working properly ?   Have you tried a high pressure rad cap ? (1.8 bar ?)  A lot of stock bikes (KTM and Kawis) run them.

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For the record, I don't think the Rekluse is going to make any difference.   A slipping clutch is a slipping clutch, whether its done by hand or automagically.

 

Here is an interesting thread on fans (for the WR450): http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=102660

 

Water moves more heat than coolants, but it has a lower boiling point and once its gone, it doesn't move any.  Which is a big problem.

 

I've had mud packed like that too.   Generally the chain kind of burrows a tunnel through it and its not really that bad for drag.  Its more to be sure, but its not 10HP more sort of thing.  It might have been my imagination, but I thought my bike packed less mud in there after I removed the kick stand and the kick stand mount.   YZ pegs and peg mounts bolt right on to WRs.

 

Are you still running your boil off bottle ?  Was it boiling the fluid out of it ?   Is your rad cap working properly ?   Have you tried a high pressure rad cap ? (1.8 bar ?)  A lot of stock bikes (KTM and Kawis) run them.

 

I don't expect the Rekluse to be a complete change to heating. But, i need a new clutch and i figure it would one help with the occasional stalling that this bike seems to like to do and maybe help with the clutch a bit. 

 

I'm running the boil off bottle and it was empty after the race. Cap is working properly, but i may get a high pressure cap for it to see how that works as well. 

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I have a Rekluse in my 13 WR and had one in my DRZ. I am not sure it will help with any over heating issues. I still got my DRZ hot with the Rekluse. I like it for the lack of clutch control it allows me. I would think about a radiator fan if the overheating was an issue for me. Not sure who makes one for the 2012+ WR450s so you might need to adapt one from a KTM or a DRZ.

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I don't expect it to be a "game changer" for heat, but i needed a new clutch anyway. 

 

Not a big fan of a fan. For now, i'm trying a new radiator cap and removing the counter sprocket guard.

 

Anyone know if removing the airbox "Snorkel" would help? It hasn't bothered me much, so i've left it on.

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For the record, I don't think the Rekluse is going to make any difference.   A slipping clutch is a slipping clutch, whether its done by hand or automagically.

 

 

Well, that depends.  If you persist in running around a gear too high everywhere, then the Rekluse won't help, but the difference with the auto clutch is that the clutch is modulated only when and only as much as is actually necessary, whereas with a manual setup, the rider usually ends up slipping it more than truly needed to keep a safe margin against stalling.  The Rekluse needs no such "padding".   The clutch modulation is also very much more precise and predictable, much like the action of an automotive torque converter.  Overall, riding through the same section at the same speed, the Rekluse will slip the clutch less, not more, in almost every case.

 

Having said that, the clutch heat and any resultant extra heat the engine oil picks up has very little to do with the overall engine temperature.  Under conditions such as you describe, a fan is the perfect solution because it specifically addresses the actual cause of the problem, which is the lack of air flow over the radiators.

 

The snorkel is for intake noise reduction, and won't affect the heat one way or the other.

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