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ewr2004

Clutch Confusion - Need Help

6 posts in this topic

My 2006 WR450 has always rolled fine, cold, in gear, with the clutch pulled it. I just returned from a Baja ride (where the clutch never acted up), unloaded the bike from the truck and tried to roll it into the garage, in 1st gear, with the clutch lever depressed - no way. The bike simply acted like it was in 1st gear with the clutch engaged, I misdiagnosed the problem as a failing clutch, I know this because I replaced the plates & springs with no change.

 

I've gone through the archives and read where some members see this as a normal issue, claiming that the bike needs to be warmed-up before you try to roll it while in gear. However, I have never had to do this in the past. Any ideas what's going on? Why is use to roll fine (while cold) in gear and now won't?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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They only roll in gear when brand new.

 

I've had four WR's and they all do this. 

 

You can remove some spring pre-load with washers inside the springs under the bolts, if you want more disengagement.

 

Then it shifts like new too.

 

I think it's the actuator arm that wears, so the cam profile on the arm is rounded, thus getting less disengagement. 

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My 2006 WR450 has always rolled fine, cold, in gear, with the clutch pulled it. I just returned from a Baja ride (where the clutch never acted up), unloaded the bike from the truck and tried to roll it into the garage, in 1st gear, with the clutch lever depressed - no way. The bike simply acted like it was in 1st gear with the clutch engaged, I misdiagnosed the problem as a failing clutch, I know this because I replaced the plates & springs with no change.

 

I've gone through the archives and read where some members see this as a normal issue, claiming that the bike needs to be warmed-up before you try to roll it while in gear. However, I have never had to do this in the past. Any ideas what's going on? Why is use to roll fine (while cold) in gear and now won't?

 

Thanks in advance!

If you end up giving her a set of clutch plates, I endorse upgrading to  the Rekluse Core Exp. I can roll the bike IN GEAR without the clutch pulled in. Bike performs better in all areas, especially in the woods and single tracks.

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A YZ/WR 450 clutch will release cleanly only when they are in near perfect, "seasoned" (used, broken in) condition.  As soon as they get the least bit warped, they drag like that.  It's reasonably normal, but you could "fix" it if you wanted.  For practical purposes, there's no reason to replace the clutch unless it drags badly enough that you can't shift to neutral at an idle.

 

New clutches will drag at first because they tend to be "springy/spongy" at first.  Heat and use will cook that out of them and they'll go into their "perfect condition" phase for a while, then back to dragging a little.  OEM Yamaha plates are better about this than all but the most premium aftermarket plates are, too, BTW.

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Thanks guys, I appreciate the info.

 

So, now I understand this is a WR gremlin but I'm still not understanding the fix. I'm not interested in adding washers, drilling out the hub, or filing down my basket (which is fine by the way), so what needs to be replaced to accomplish the fix, is it the actuator arm? New clutch plates and springs did nothing.

Edited by ewr2004

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