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Jmill14

Which Reusable Air Filter

24 posts in this topic

He everyone.  I've replaced my air filter a few times now and am already tired on that cost.  I'd love to get two cleanable filters but with all the choices / price points I have no idea which one to get.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?  Which oil are you using to lube the filter?  2010 yzf450.....

 

thanks

jason

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The one that came in the bike was reusable.  But never mind.  I prefer TwinAir or Uni's.  Maxima FFT worked in thoroughly, squeezed out, and dried for a day.

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"The one that came in the bike was reusable. But never mind" lol

 

i like uni or twin filter also. but i like the uni arisol oil. easier to clean

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In spite of what anyone says, there's nothing easier than cleaning FFT out of a filter.  That is, nothing that works for filtering dirt, and if you do it right. 

 

Get a plastic bucket with a lid, put two gallons of Mineral Spirits in it, and don't use it for anything but filters.  Wash them by hand right in the bucket (wearing gloves), wring them out and hang them up to dry overnight.  Then thoroughly reoil them, work it all the way through the foam, and let that "cure" overnight again.  Install one and bag the other(s).  Easy.

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I use Twin air filters and belray foam filter oil.

I also use mineral spirits but also use soapy water and clean rinse water after that. Then let dry completely, work the oil in real well, sit to 'cure' over night, install or bag.

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I use Twin air filters and belray foam filter oil.

I also use mineral spirits but also use soapy water and clean rinse water after that. Then let dry completely, work the oil in real well, sit to 'cure' over night, install or bag.

This is exactly my method. I use Twin Air Filters and Belray.  The mineral spirits works good to get the old oil off, then the bucket of soapy water gets out any remaining dirt.

I have three filters I rotate use,install clean one every ride.  I think with the method described you need to have multiple filters or it just becomes too time consuming as it is a couple day process.

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Sorry too jump in but do you have too let them dry that long I just switched from no toil and tried bel ray. And probly went riding about a hour after I oiled it.

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In spite of what anyone says, there's nothing easier than cleaning FFT out of a filter.

 

Except No-Toil :)

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I really appreciate all the input. I've got the original and another so I should be good. Just need the oil and spirits. Thanks everyone.

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Sorry too jump in but do you have too let them dry that long I just switched from no toil and tried bel ray. And probly went riding about a hour after I oiled it.

I believe it is better to let sit and tack up but I would think your bike is fine. I think no toil sucks.

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I have used No-Toil for 10 years and never had an issue. I know that people will always prefer one thing or another when it comes to their bikes, and I am certainly not except to that rule. But... How and why has No-Toil ever done you wrong? I use it in the sandiest of conditions and have never had dirt or sand pass through, cleanup is as easy as it gets and it's much less toxic than standard oil/cleaning solutions. 

Not trying to start a war here, just curious what it is that people hate about it.

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... How and why has No-Toil ever done you wrong?

 

I tried it a few years back and was very disappointed with it.  For one thing, it's more work than my method.  I can clean the filter in under a minute in mineral spirits and be done with it except for hanging it out to dry.  No mess in the sink, nothing to discard except once every 8 or nine months I change the solvent and scrape the dirt off the bottom of the bucket.  The other thing, and I'm told that they've improved it some, is that the oil doesn't retain its tackiness like FFT.  I can leave an FFT oiled filter out for a month and it's still like fly paper.  No Toil "dries out".  This matters to me because the bike sometimes sits prepped for a race or ride for a couple of weeks, and also because I do 3 filters at a time and bag them for later use. 

 

 

The mineral spirits works good to get the old oil off, then the bucket of soapy water gets out any remaining dirt.

 

I don't bother with that.  At the risk of sounding like a lunatic, I don't care if the filter is 100% totally clean.  The fact is that any dirt that's in the filter foam when I oil it is going to stay there until I wash it again. (if I oil it right)

 

Sorry too jump in but do you have too let them dry that long I just switched from no toil and tried bel ray. And probly went riding about a hour after I oiled it.

Filter oils, especially spray types, have light "vehicle solvents" that carry the thicker filter oil in a thin form so it can flow into and over the foam webbing.  If you don't let that have enough time to evaporate, you can end up sucking some filter oil out of the foam and get it into parts of your carb.  Or, it might drool over the inside of your air box and onto your swing arm.

 

In any case, remember that it's the oil and not the foam that catches the dirt.  Oil your filters thoroughly, all the way through.

 

Just use some old gas cleans em like a champ

That's a really great way to poison yourself, or blow your whole garage off the lot.

Bad idea.

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I believe, through experience, that red no toil system with powder cleaner destroys the glue on the filters. That is the part i don't like. It did clean up very easy but holes in the filter make it useless to me.

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The glue on the filters takes a beating anyway, and I just had my two three or four-year-old TwinAirs fall apart as a result of being cleaned and oiled so often (I ride the SoCal deserts, and nearly always with a bunch of other guys around, so the dust mandates that I clean the filter after every ride day or race.  That's a lot of wringing and squeezing).  If yours came unglued sooner that, I guess you could blame the cleaner, but I don't know about that part.

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I mentioned my experience to more experienced friends of mine and they had the same thought. There is no scientific evidence or anything, I just rather try something else. The glue deteriorated on 2 of mine. One old that the previous owner gave me and one new one that I bought.

I use the soapy water and rinse water too because I was concerned about just mineral spirits sitting in the filter too long damaging the glue too.

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I change my filters after every ride. I have no choice due to the conditions. I keep 5 or 6 filters and have a dirty and clean bin, washing them all at the same time. While the filters do end up falling apart eventually, it does so at a pretty slow rate, lasting years at a time.

 

What works for some may not work for others I suppose. I have just never had a problem and clean up has been so easy for me that I couldn't see trying another option. 

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I use the soapy water and rinse water too because I was concerned about just mineral spirits sitting in the filter too long damaging the glue too.

 

I don't worry about that, given that the filter was designed to "smell gasoline" and be smothered in mineral oil its whole life.

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the reason i like the uni arisol oil is because i can clean it with some warm water and dish soap. but i do have to reoil if it sits too long. but thats rarely an issue for me since  if i'm not going riding the next day i'm not cleaning and getting my bike ready

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      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
      (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.)
      Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together.
      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
      Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go:

      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
      Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel:

      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By Eddie Sisneros
      seems like the most common jetting issue that comes up are pilot circuit related.the following is a sure method to choose the needed changes.
      with the bike warm and idleing turn the fuel screw in till the idle drops/misses.then go back out till the idle peaks/smooths.
      this should happen between 1 and 2.5 turns on a fcr carb and 1 and 3 turns on a cv.
      if you end up at less than 1 turn you need a smaller pilot jet.more than 2.5 (or 3 turns on a cv) you need a bigger pilot jet.
      choose the appropriate size and retest.
      This post has been promoted to a wiki