2012 WR450 electric start sucks!

Mine starts good now that it's got some miles on it and the weather warmed up.  I was looking to richen the idle to try and reduce the decel popping.

Just had my first Harescramble yesterday and the bike did great. After replacing the battery and just turning my idle up a bit the electric start worked way better. I was second place into the first corner and came out with a 1st by the end. This race was half endurocross half single track and the WR was amazing. Just don't tip it over in the rocks because she's heavy by the 8th lap...image.jpgimage.jpg

Edited by torkd14

Just had my first Harescramble yesterday and the bike did great. After replacing the battery and just turning my idle up a bit the electric start worked way better. I was second place into the first corner and came out with a 1st by the end. This race was half endurocross half single track and the WR was amazing. Just don't tip it over in the rocks because she's heavy by the 8th lap...

Wow awesome. I am buying a WR this year and am glad to hear your results especially after the title of this thread. :ride:

Edited by Chaconne

Get a shorai 12 ah battery

My life got a lot better when I bought one of these batteries.

 

Did my valves and put this battery in and now it fires up everytime.

Thought I would chime in here as my bike had a good hard ride this weekend after making the last two changes: had my dealer adjust my CO level to 8, and switched to Rotella 5w-40 full synth oil.

 
Before: the bike would start reliably hot or cold but IN NEUTRAL ONLY. The bike would not start if in gear, period. Hot, cold no matter, no start. HAD to be in neutral.

 

Now: bike still starts reliably hot or cold in neutral. But now with the 'choke' (aka high idle) knob on, it will start after a stall when fully hot and in gear! Yay!

 

So it's not 100% where I'd like it to be. Which is like my old CRF250X where I could stall it, pull in the clutch, thumb the button and take off without missing a beat. But it is acceptable now. Before I had to dread stalling on a hill or somewhere I had to be on both brakes and still trying to find neutral. But no more, just reach down and pull the 'choke' and it fires right up! I'm going to double check my idle speed and make sure it hasn't dipped down or something, or maybe the bike wasn't all the way hot when I checked it last time. But the bottom line is, hot starting is no longer an issue for me. It's not perfect, but it's no longer a problem or something I worry about.

... I notice that at idle and right off idle the head pipe will start to glow at night, so its pretty lean for sure.

 

Not true.  It may be lean, but the glowing pipe doesn't indicate that.  The glow is the result of retarded ignition timing, a high idle speed, and an extremely light gauge head pipe with no convective cooling happening because you aren't moving.  Lean mixtures do not cause "after burn" (unfinished combustion running into the exhaust).   Metal that "starts to glow" red in low light is only about 750-800 degrees.  Normal healthy exhaust temps are around 1400-1500.

 

Mine starts good now that it's got some miles on it and the weather warmed up.  I was looking to richen the idle to try and reduce the decel popping.

The problem with decel popping is what, exactly?

 

The problem with decel popping is what, exactly?

 

After I got a slip on, it pops a lot when I'm engine braking.  I thought it might be a lean condition.  So that sounds normal, nothing to worry about?

After I got a slip on, it pops a lot when I'm engine braking.  I thought it might be a lean condition.  So that sounds normal, nothing to worry about?

 

You never thought that might have been directly causal, then?  Decel popping is actually the natural behavior for the engine.  Additions to the carbs used on WR models try to tune that out so a good backfire won't blow the more restrictive muffler off.  But whether your bike didn't pop at all before you put the pipe on, or pops a lot more now than it did, the first place to look is for an air leak between the header and mid pipe of the new exhaust.  

 

Check the header/head joint, too.

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