I have returned with Pics 2014 WR450, PW50, and TT-R 230

[a*aron]

Hey Guys I've been out of the game now for about 5yrs and finally my oldest daughter is ready to get out in the dirt. So this past week I jumped in with both feet. I picked up a PW50 for her, a TTR-230 for the wife and a WR450 for myself. All the bikes are awesome but when I got on my 450 it seemed like the throttle doesn't turn all the way. I read a little about changing the throttle screw but I've never heard of this before. Is this what's keeping my throttle from turning all the way? The bike feels like it has gobs of torque but isn't revving as high as it should. Any help is greatly appreciated. See pics as promised.

 

-Also is there any adjustment on the seat height of the TTR230? I can ask that in the specific forum but just thought i'd include it in case anyone knows

 

Thanks

Aaron

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2014 by a*aron

[080]

Yes on the throttle screw. It needs to be changed out with a smaller one. If you do a search you will find all the info you need to get the Wr uncorked. Do you need the TTR to be taller or shorter?

[a*aron]

sorry would like it to be a little lower.

 

Yeah I see all the info on the throttle screw now. My only question is do I need to use the competition ECU or can I just change out the screw. I'm riding with novices and don't really need the extra power or want it to be any louder. Just want to use all of the gear.

[080]

The bike is fine with the stock ECU. If you want to jazz it up later then you can change it out, add a pipe etc. Couple things you can do for the TTR height. One is cut the foam down a little on the seat, a lot of people do this. Another suggestion and I would only suggest this for beginners is to loosen the rear spring up so the so the bike sags more in the rear and to raise the front forks a little in the triple clamp (1/4" or 3/8") which will lower the front of the bike a little. This approach will work for the beginner who is most likely going to be sitting most of the time and really not be using the suspension to its potential. As they get better on the bike you should probably go the way of setting back to stock and having springs cut down by a suspension shop if height is still an issue.

[a*aron]

Thanks..I'll probably start with the seat as it's just a little bit big on her.

 

Does anyone make a "quiet" aftermarket pipe for the 450? I'm not opposed to an aftermarket Pipe, I just don't want to scare the crap out of my daughter because I know how loud it can get.

 

I ordered the GYTR competition kit already and I'll probably install the ECU that way if I ever want to mess with it I can. If i paid for it. I might as well put it in. No sense in paying 100 dollars for a screw. What type of tool do I need to remove the screw?

[Navaho6]

Your competition kit includes the shorter throttle screw.   That's why it is called a "kit".  You'll need a "security torx" wrench to get the old one out.  I found one of these very helpful - http://www.grainger.com/product/3ZH33?gclid=CIyMi9D3zr0CFRQV7AodYW8Avw&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Screwdrivers%20and%20Nutdrivers-_-3ZH33&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=3ZH33&ef_id=Uz2jiwAABCwgwmii:20140407174835:s

 

Every WR that is used for slow trail riding or in warm temps should use a gytr competition ecu.  My buddy's 2012 WR was completely stock for over a year.  Mine was fitted with the competition ecu from day one.  His repeatedly overheated and boiled the coolant on several rides and started "pinging", even when temps were in the 60's.  He also had difficulties restarting his bike once it stalled.  All this because Yamaha has the bike set up too lean for EPA compliance.  Under the same conditions, my bike has never had those issues.  Last week we set my buddy's bike up with an FMF, ECU, richer mapping and richer CO setting.

 

For the exhaust, you can try the GYTR exhaust tip - http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-GYT-5TJ93-75-01-Performance-Muffler-Insert/dp/B000YF8X8M/ref=sr_1_4/189-9212788-8606710?ie=UTF8&qid=1396892655&sr=8-4&keywords=wr450f

 

FMF is quite loud, imo, but I wear ear plugs and my buddies don't seam to care.

Edited April 7, 2014 by Navaho6

[a*aron]

Thanks for the advice. Does the competition ECU have different mapping than the factory ECU or do you have to remap when you get the new ECU? Considering the bike is stock.

 

Thanks

Aaron

[RMK800]

ON the TTR 230 I would move the forks up as high as they would go and the decrease pressure on the rear shock.  I have a TTR125 that my 11 year old is riding.  He is a bit small for it, but did the same MOD and its a lot better.  I would take a pic of the forks and rear shock before doing the MOD .  Then you can come back to those settings if you need to.

Edited April 7, 2014 by RMK800

[vlxjim]

The comp ECU's base map is OK for stock. Still a little lean but better than the stock ECU. The FMF Q4 HEX is what I run it is the best quite muffler for the WR. The FMF PC is to loud. You should remove the little insert (restrictor) in the end of the pipe. We all call it the pee shooter. Just pull the end cap off, drill the two rivets out and pull the insert out. It was made to do this.

[a*aron]

So the packing in the exhaust won't come loose by doing this? Does it get a lot louder?

[080]

So the packing in the exhaust won't come loose by doing this? Does it get a lot louder?

Packing won't come loose and yes it will get a little louder.

[a*aron]

Thanks guys. What tool do I need for the throttle stop? Looks like a challenging evening getting that thing out

Also where do I get the tool?

Edited April 9, 2014 by a*aron

[a*aron]

:UPDATE:

 

I went at lunch today and picked up the security torx. Unfortunately cost me $23 bucks because I had to buy a set but anyways after Swearing, punching, and yelling at the bike I got the stock throttle screw out and the new one in. (took me 55 Minutes) I found it easiest to just take the whole exhaust off but still not easy to get to after that. I was so excited about getting the old one out though that I forgot to put locktite on the new one. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it for now. I feel I got it torqued in there pretty well and it didn't look like the original one had any on it. But then I changed the ECU took literally 2 minutes. Took it on a quick couple laps but My goodness what a difference. I may take the pee shooter out eventually but for the riding I'll be doing with the wife and kids I think this was all I need. 

 

Thanks for the help guys.

 

One note about the TTR-230. It appears the top of the triple tree is already at the top of the forks. I'm not sure I understand what you guys mean about raising them.

Edited April 9, 2014 by a*aron

[06gixxer1k]

:UPDATE:

 

I went at lunch today and picked up the security torx. Unfortunately cost me $23 bucks because I had to buy a set but anyways after Swearing, punching, and yelling at the bike I got the stock throttle screw out and the new one in. (took me 55 Minutes) I found it easiest to just take the whole exhaust off but still not easy to get to after that. I was so excited about getting the old one out though that I forgot to put locktite on the new one. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it for now. I feel I got it torqued in there pretty well and it didn't look like the original one had any on it. But then I changed the ECU took literally 2 minutes. Took it on a quick couple laps but My goodness what a difference. I may take the pee shooter out eventually but for the riding I'll be doing with the wife and kids I think this was all I need. 

 

Thanks for the help guys.

 

One note about the TTR-230. It appears the top of the triple tree is already at the top of the forks. I'm not sure I understand what you guys mean about raising them.

In order to raise the forks you lower the bike. Loosen the tripple trees and let the forks slide up past the triple. They call it raising since the forks rise above the triple.

Edited April 9, 2014 by 06gixxer1k

[a*aron]

ah I get it now...Thanks

[vlxjim]

You should remove the pea shooter. The Comp ECU map was made for it to be gone. It won't change the sound that much just a little but still very quite as mufflers go. 

 

Take the end cap off.  You can see the rivet on the side there is one on the other side as well. Just drill them out and pull the restricter out. It takes 10 minutes to do. And it will help your bike run cooler.

[a*aron]

You should remove the pea shooter. The Comp ECU map was made for it to be gone. It won't change the sound that much just a little but still very quite as mufflers go. 

 

Take the end cap off.  You can see the rivet on the side there is one on the other side as well. Just drill them out and pull the restricter out. It takes 10 minutes to do. And it will help your bike run cooler.

 

oh ok good to know. I was thinking if I took it out that I would need to remap the ECU.

[mch]

I ordered the screw and and the GYTR quiet insert.  I pulled out the stop screw before I got the new one, and never got around to putting in the stop screw when it finally came in.  I have been riding about 2x a week for over a year without any issues.   It stops like any normal throttle would stop, so I'm not sure why it was even needed.  If you want to plug up the hole, you could just dab some silicone on it.

 

Same with they GYTR insert.  I just pulled the peashooter and left the spark arrestor in.  Just a matter of taking out some bolts, and sticking them back in.  It's still quiet as compared to the other bikes I ride with.