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Phat Twin

Fuel Screw Problem

11 posts in this topic

I bought a bike used, and it came with a Boyeson Quick Shot 2 already installed on it with an apparent aftermarket fuel screw. Problem is this. When I screw the fuel screw in, the threads grab and pull the screw up, but it hits the bottom of the QS2 before it actually stops screwing in. Is my fuel screw too short, or is that the norm for the QS2? Thanks!

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I'm not sure this is a problem

The fuel screw is supposed to bottom in it's cavity.

Do not tighten it too tight, ever.

If it's aluminum, get rid of it, cause they break, and have the wrong taper.

 

The QS-2 doesn't really help until you upgrade the linkage spring (tokyo mods), change the leak jet (50) check the squirt timing (lift up the subframe and watch)

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Thanks you for the input. I have just installed a JD jet kit, bit I'm not sure what size leak jet is installed at the moment, I have to look at my notes. I did the banding to the accelerator pump arm as part if the kit, too. Would you recommend removing the QS2, getting the stock accelerator pump housing and a new diaphragm? The diaphragm that was in there did not allow the actuator from the accelerator to move at all, so I had to reduce the size of the diaphragm pin (grinding) to get the squirt into the carb. What was the other mid that you mentioned?

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  • 165main
  • 45pilot
  • NCVS needle 3rd clip
  • Tokyo mods apump spring upgrade
  • Upgrade apump system to 2008 spec parts if not done http://www.crfsonly....roducts_id/3932
  • 50 leak jet
  • Confirm apump squirt distance/duration/aim/timing by tilting up the sub frame and watching
  • Adjust apump squirt timing using the linkage adjustment screw under the throttle wheel cover
  • R&D remote fuel screw
  • Unplug pink (gray) wire in harness
  • Open air box top to frame limits
  • Open exhaust baffle by cutting off first section, leaving screen (or upgrade exhaust)
  • Lubricate the hot start and choke cables with waterproof lube (LP-3 or similar)
  • Clean and lubricate the hot start and choke plungers with water proof grease
  • Do not remove TPS from carb body, only unplug if removing carb
  • Replace the floating slide seal if damaged for no longer sealing http://www.crfsonly....roducts_id/3687

This is the Bible for Carb Service:  http://www.dirtrider...r_carb_rebuild/

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  • 165main
  • 45pilot
  • NCVS needle 3rd clip
  • Tokyo mods apump spring upgrade
  • Upgrade apump system to 2008 spec parts if not done http://www.crfsonly....roducts_id/3932
  • 50 leak jet
  • Confirm apump squirt distance/duration/aim/timing by tilting up the sub frame and watching
  • Adjust apump squirt timing using the linkage adjustment screw under the throttle wheel cover
  • R&D remote fuel screw
  • Unplug pink (gray) wire in harness
  • Open air box top to frame limits
  • Open exhaust baffle by cutting off first section, leaving screen (or upgrade exhaust)
  • Lubricate the hot start and choke cables with waterproof lube (LP-3 or similar)
  • Clean and lubricate the hot start and choke plungers with water proof grease
  • Do not remove TPS from carb body, only unplug if removing carb
  • Replace the floating slide seal if damaged for no longer sealing http://www.crfsonly....roducts_id/3687

This is the Bible for Carb Service:  http://www.dirtrider...r_carb_rebuild/

 

Great detailed response.  Thank you.  I have about half of those already done on the 99 wr400 I have.  Regarding the Fuel Screw, what type of carb am I running again, the FCR?  Want to make sure I buy the correct type of screw for my carb.  I have read a lot about the zip ty screws, are those the non aluminum ones that you are referring to?

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So, what bike did you buy?  Replace the fuel screw with the R&D remote.  Works great, even with the QS2.

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Sorry if I wasn't clear. I have a 99 wr400, I have rebuilt the motor, and done the same with my carb, including adding a Q4 pipe to the mix as well. I'll look at the R&D screw, thanks.

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The R&D remote is for the 2000 YZ 426. Will that work in my 99 WR400? Carbs are still the same through those years?

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