HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
moeyz250

2010 yz450f no oil in the clutch

5 posts in this topic

I just bought the yz450f last week I changed the oil and put a rekluse exp 2.0 in it and the clutch whent out. When I put the exp 2.o in I had noticed that that the clutch plates were not wet like they should be I thought maybe that since the clutch plates were new that they hadn't lubed up yet. the previous owner said he changed the plates they are etc clutch pack I'm use to 2 strokes this my first 4 stroke. I'm not sure if something is clogged so the oil can't transfer from the motor side to the clutch side any help would be greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Assuming it's not a '14 model, the YZ450 is a dry sump system.  The clutch and trans don't run in a "pool" of oil like a two-stroke gearbox, but are pressure fed from the oil pump, and everything that drains to the bottom is scavenged up and returned to the feed oil reservoir. 

 

The clutch receives oil from the center of the main shaft, past the clutch push rods.  It isn't as much as most people expect to see, normally, either, so your comment is pretty typical.  I wouldn't worry about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How much oil should come thru the main shaft. The clutch was fried when we pulled it out I haven't had the time to take the rekluse apart to see if it's ruined or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a great deal.  The plates usually have the appearance of being fairly dry. 

 

If you want, you can verify oil delivery to the clutch by running it with the clutch opened.  Do this only if the right side crankcase cover is still in place with the clutch cover off, and beware of moving parts when it starts up.  You will also want to protect yourself and the immediate area from oil slinging off of the assembly. 

 

Remove the pressure plate and all of the clutch plates, and also remove both clutch push rods and the ball in between them.  Note that you may need someone to hold the clutch release arm down in order to prevent oil pressure from pushing it up out of the bore.  This may not happen with the clutch opened up, but it could.   When the engine runs, there should be a significant amount of oil that will be discharged from the shaft bore.

 

In operation, that is not the oil actually delivered to the clutch.  The Clutch end of the long inner push rod meters the oil to the clutch by having it flow around an enlarged area that has spiral cut grooves in it for that purpose.  Looking  at these, you can see that the oil that is intended to get to the clutch is intentionally not a lot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0