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Bryan47

Another Charging Question

7 posts in this topic

Hello guys,

   I have another charging question...I have a 2003 wr450 with a modded stator (floated ground) and a Trail Tech adjustable Regulator/Rec. I just replaced the Baja Designs Regulator/Rec (with the trail tech) because it wouldn't charge the battery. With the old Regulator all the lights would work but whenever the engine was revved up the headlight would go really dim. I found someone had modified the stator but didn't take the headlight off the AC circuit. So I rewired the headlight into the brown wire on DC voltage, so if I turn off the ignition, the lights will go off too. The problem I have is with the headlight on, my battery voltage is only around 11.8 to 12 volts at idle. With the engine revved up it's only slightly higher 12.1. Do I need a different headlight? with the headlight turned off at idle I'm getting 14.1 at the battery. Has anyone heard of a stator going bad and acting like this? I can adjust the regulator up a little but I think it will be overcharging the battery whenever I run without the headlight. What's your guy's thoughts?

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Ok, a short update, I adjusted the voltage Regulator so I'm getting 12.9 at idle with the lights on, now it's overcharging at rpm even with the lights on....guess I need to go with some LED lights or tone down the regulator and let it draw off the battery until the rpms are up. Anyone have some voltage readings on their bikes at idle with lights on?

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I have 2 WR's, an 01 250 and 09 450, both of which I've converted into a full DC system.  On the 250 I added a lithium battery, needed to make a horn work.  I floated the ground and used a BD reg/rec.  I get 13.8 at idle with the lights on and it goes up to 14.2 revved up.  

On the 450 I used a Ricky stator and reg/rec.  That read a steady 14.1 running with lights on.  

On both bikes I made my own harness for the lighting. That way I knew what was going on and could troubleshoot if needed.  No problems yet.  The 250 I did a year ago and the 450 just recently.   

I've never heard of a stator going bad, just some getting damaged from failing flywheel rivets. 

Your bike came with a  60/55 watt H4 bulb.  If someone put in a  100 watt bulb it could cause low voltage at idle.  

You might want to try a known good new bulb or a 35 watt bulb.

Also, the manual for my 450 said the stator produced 120 watts.  Ricky Stator's said their's produced 100 watts.  I emailed them about that and the response was that Yamaha overstates their's that it's really around 62.  Ricky's actually makes around 140 and that you can have 100 watts of lights.  

Others I've talked to say their WRs were not good at keeping the battery charged, including the guy I bought the 450 from.  .

Edited by flyandride

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I have 2 WR's, an 01 250 and 09 450, both of which I've converted into a full DC system.  On the 250 I added a lithium battery, needed to make a horn work.  I floated the ground and used a BD reg/rec.  I get 13.8 at idle with the lights on and it goes up to 14.2 revved up.  

On the 450 I used a Ricky stator and reg/rec.  That read a steady 14.1 running with lights on.  

On both bikes I made my own harness for the lighting. That way I knew what was going on and could troubleshoot if needed.  No problems yet.  The 250 I did a year ago and the 450 just recently.   

I've never heard of a stator going bad, just some getting damaged from failing flywheel rivets. 

Your bike came with a  60/55 watt H4 bulb.  If someone put in a  100 watt bulb it could cause low voltage at idle.  

You might want to try a known good new bulb or a 35 watt bulb.

Also, the manual for my 450 said the stator produced 120 watts.  Ricky Stator's said their's produced 100 watts.  I emailed them about that and the response was that Yamaha overstates their's that it's really around 62.  Ricky's actually makes around 140 and that you can have 100 watts of lights.  

Others I've talked to say their WRs were not good at keeping the battery charged, including the guy I bought the 450 from.  .

 

Ok cool, Thanks for the response Flyandride, I appreciate all the info!

  I checked the headlight and it is a stock 55/60 watt H4 bulb. Looks like for now I'll go with a led tail light, and then look into getting a better stator.

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Oh say, Flyandride, when you made your own wiring harness, did you add a relay to operate the lights, or is all the lighting power taken from one little wire?

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Oh say, Flyandride, when you made your own wiring harness, did you add a relay to operate the lights, or is all the lighting power taken from one little wire?

I came off the battery for the lighting and left the stock harness alone.  

Baja Designs keyed switch kills the ignition and turns on juice to the lights so I can't leave them on.  Horn is straight to the battery because I can't leave that on without knowing it.  I used a Tusk high, low, horn and signal switch except I have no signals, not required here.  On the right I replaced the push button switch with a common Yamaha start and ignition switch that you find on WR250R and many street bikes.  Wiring diagram posted below.  A couple of diodes to high and low provide power to tail light as there's no switch in the Tusk unit for that.  

wiring.jpg

Edited by flyandride

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