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RMK800

Valves - 2007 WR450 First Timer

12 posts in this topic

This is my first time doing valves.   You guys are fantastic on this forum and could use a little help.  I know there is a lot of info on this.  I have looked and read every video or forum on this topic.  Maybe I should know the answer, but if you guys wouldn't mind giving me some input.  Thanks for the help.

 

I checked my valves today.   As you can see, I believe I'm out on the Exhaust and the Intake. These are some of the question I have.   I have a 32 piece feeler gauge, nothing fancy.

 

- Exhaust measurements - I could not fit a .18mm.  I could only fit a 15mm and it felt a tad loose.. I'm thinking a 16mm would fit, but I don't have that gauge.  Do I use the 15mm number or 16mm for my measurements for my shims?

 

 - Intake Measurements - I doubled checked. I believe they are accurate at those measurements.

 

- Do these gauge measurements seem WAY off for a 2007 bike?  This is my first time and maybe my measurements aren't accurate. I double checked I was at TDC.   All I have heard is,  my valves haven't moved in 10 years, etc. :)

 

 - Are the stock shims part # standard. Should I be able to look at a part list to see what sizes there are for each shim?

 

valves.JPG

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All of em are a little tight.  intake should be .10 - .15, exhaust .20 - .25.   Buy a shim kit on ebay, a whole kit is about $70.   it will have sizes thicker than you'll ever need.  I've bought a refill kit with 5 sizes, 3 each for 15 bucks.  Chances are the shims you need are 1.80 and thinner.  

Shims are available in .05 mm increments from Yamaha and aftermarket but at the factory they had them every .01 mm.   

Your measurements don't seem way out.  I bought a 450 a few months ago and the measurements were about the same as what you have.  Probably the bike was supposed to be serviced after break in and that was never done.  

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I also understand to be on the tight end of the spec. So on the exhaust side be at 22 to 23 max? The intake be at 12 to 13 max?

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Just follow the factory specs in your service manual, to middle.

Remember, you are just adjusting clearances; you still don't know if the valves are leaking unless you do a leak down test or a fluid test.

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Good info, but you can't look up a bike and see what the stock shims sizes are?

 

Nope.  Yours will probably have 5 different sized shims in it.  Usually, you can swap some of what you have around and end up buying only two or three.  If you're worried about down time, don't.  Any sizable dealership, or repair shop will have an assortment on hand, and if they don't the Honda shop will.  The same shim fits CRF450's. 

 

The walk-in option will cost you about $8 per shim, though.   "Most" new bikes were built with shims in the range of 1.75-1.85.

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Ya I'm going to try the local place. Question..... When placing the shim back. I have read where you can place a dab of grease and stick it to the bucket or do I just put it on top of the valve with some oil?

I also saw someone pour some oil over the top. That necessary?

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Ya I'm going to try the local place. Question..... When placing the shim back. I have read where you can place a dab of grease and stick it to the bucket or do I just put it on top of the valve with some oil?

I also saw someone pour some oil over the top. That necessary?

There's a recess in the top of the valves, that's where you put it.  Helps to have a small magnetic retrieval tool to remove and install shims.  And catch shims and other parts you may drop into the engine.

More tips:

Set the rotor to TDC with the cam lobes at 10 and 2 o'clock.  TDC is the "I" mark, not the wide "H".

Mark the cams and chain with a dab of paint.  Take pictures of it before you take it apart.  

The C shaped piece that holds the cam bearings in place will try hard to fall down in your engine.   

Don't put the valve cover back on if you're missing a part that you could have dropped in the engine.

Pulling the cam chain tensioner off is best done with a ratchet and a couple long wobble extensions from back by the wheel.  

Edited by flyandride
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Thank you all for the feedback. It did take me a bit of time because I had to go back to the dealership twice for shims.   When I first took my measurements going by the Yamaha service manual.   Everything was pretty much .50 less of a shim.  So I purchased the shims based on the chart in the book. Some I was able to use from the other shims.

 

After closing it back up and winding the engine multiple times and then putting it back to TDC. The Exhaust side were both set to .21.  I'm like sweet, this isn't so bad. Then the fun started :)

 

So I take my readings on the intake and I get 9 (semi loose), 8 and 8.    I'm like what the crap.  I used a Micrometer to measure all shims etc.  So I went back to store to get more shims.

 

Replaced all three on the intake side with the next size down.   Now I get readings of  15, 13, 13.  I triple checked, I could not go to the next size up.  These are in spec, but am I too far on the loose side?

 

 I had a bit of drama with the TDC and the CAMS.  I did the paint markings, but it wore off :jawdrop:, somehow the motor turned and went off TDC.   Thank goodness I took pictures.   Anyways I got the motor back to TDC and the cams in. The alignment marks seem right and do line up.  

 

So I buttoned everything back up and started the bike.   The bike seems good and revs and idles great, can't ride it, because we got the pineapple express weather coming through from Hawaii.  

 

One other question I do have, would you know it if you were one tooth off?  or you didn't get the cams to TDC and aligned properly.

Edited by RMK800

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