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mebgardner

'12+ WR450 FI Diagnostics Tool P/N and Connections Info Here

39 posts in this topic

I'm posting this to make it easy for others to find this info.

 

It originated in this thread:

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/976951-2012-wr450-starting-woes/page-17

 

Post #326 and #327 on page 17.

 

"Can we get a part number and vendor for a hand held tool that will connect. It appears the black tool that says "yamaha" in red works? 

How about the special connector cable that will plug into the tool mention above and to the WR's comp ECU connector? "

 

"

I got the YAMAHA FUEL INJECTION DIAGNOSTIC TOOL part # 908900318200 from Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649). Here were no instructions included so I used the procedures I found on this thread.

 

This (and I quote):

I used the supplied lead with the red+black clips and the green lug.

I connected the clips to the battery and the green lead up to the green connection in the airbox ( middle pin of 3 pin connector).

Tester read connecting so I held down the mode button, then turned the bikes power button, next thing you know Diag mode!!!

 

The above worked! It would have been hit or miss figuring out the last part so thanks to those who put it out there! The FI tool read the CO as 0, so I bumped it up to 9. I hit the button and it fired up immediately. It used to take a couple of revolutions to fire, now it was like a half of one.

 

"

 

/********************/

 

I can now confirm this tool part number, the source, these connection descriptions, and the initialization method ("hold down mode button...")

 

... is all correct and works.

 

I ordered the same diagnostic device from eBay, and it was delivered from India two weeks later.

 

I had to build a single green wire interface, from a round "push-in" type to a small "blade" type, for the green wire to mate from the tool to the cycle connector. 10 minutes of cutting spare wire and soldering, and it was done, and it worked.

 

I set my CO / Idle to "8", from a baseline reading of "0", which for my cycle I had measured from a gas sniffer at the dealearship to 1.5% CO (a bit lean). So, "8" bumped it up by a small amount.

 

The result is no change in starting (it was never a hard starting cycle to begin with), and no red header glow on idle (which I partially attribute to too lean idle conditions).

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That sure beats skimming through the whole thread.  Thanks.

 

I was just looking at my diagnostic tool that I got off ebay and searching for a male connector to trim down.  Sure you can buy a Sumitomo Connector from Eastern Beaver but the minimum order is $20. 

 

Once I set mine CO, I will probably fleabay my FI tool  $75.

Edited by Navaho6

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Hopefully I did this right: 

 

1. I hooked up the diagnostic tool to the ecu (green wire to middle slot)

2. hooked the alligator clamps to the battery

3. while holding the mode button down, turned on the bikes ignition. The word "Diag" shows on screen

4. Pressed the "UP" button, "CO" shows up on screen

5. Pressed the "Up" button. Nothing happened

6.Pressed the Mode button. "C1" shows on screen.

7. Pressed the "Up" button.  Nothing happened

8. Pressed the Mode button a 2nd time.  "C1"  shows up with a "0" to the right.

9. Pressed the "Up" button and "0" goes to "1"

10. Continued pressing the "Up" button until I get an "8"

11. Turned off bikes ignition.

12. Repeated steps 3 through 8, except this time the setting is showing "8"

 

Does this sound like I have it set right?

Edited by Navaho6

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Hopefully I did this right: 

 

1. I hooked up the diagnostic tool to the ecu (green wire to middle slot)

2. hooked the alligator clamps to the battery

3. while holding the mode button down, turned on the bikes ignition. The word "Diag" shows on screen

4. Pressed the "UP" button, "CO" shows up on screen

5. Pressed the "Up" button. Nothing happened

6.Pressed the Mode button. "C1" shows on screen.

7. Pressed the "Up" button.  Nothing happened

8. Pressed the Mode button a 2nd time.  "C1"  shows up with a "0" to the right.

9. Pressed the "Up" button and "0" goes to "1"

10. Continued pressing the "Up" button until I get an "8"

11. Turned off bikes ignition.

12. Repeated steps 3 through 8, except this time the setting is showing "8"

 

Does this sound like I have it set right?

Yes,now its set to 8.

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Definitely worked. Cranked on the first kick cold. 48 degrees outside. Before the change, it took two or three kicks. Starts within 1/2 second with the e-start. It use to take twice the effort.

I'm happy.

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If anyone would like to use the FI tool listed above or just purchase from me send me a message. I can confirm it worked, not just on my bike, but others. That's part of my quote in the first post and that ebay link is the tool. I made a connector so it plugs right into the bike. I don't mind helping fellow WR riders out, just let me know.

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So is '8' the magic number here? I had my dealer do it for me, but can't remember what they adjusted it to, but I seem to recall '5 units' or something? My bike definitely starts better when hot now, but still won't start in gear for anything, and I still have to use the fast idle sometimes even in neutral. So thinking I should confirm if it is set to 5 or not and perhaps bump it up to 8?

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So is '8' the magic number here? I had my dealer do it for me, but can't remember what they adjusted it to, but I seem to recall '5 units' or something? My bike definitely starts better when hot now, but still won't start in gear for anything, and I still have to use the fast idle sometimes even in neutral. So thinking I should confirm if it is set to 5 or not and perhaps bump it up to 8?

 

I was informed in another thread that the "Yamaha Recommended" setting is "7".  The fellow who wrote that said the info came directly from Yamaha Tech Support.

 

Yes, definitely confirm your current Idle / CO setting if still hard starting during hot conditions.

 

The "still wont start in gear" is a different issue, and I think the generally accepted advice is to try a different, thinner, grade oil first. Try changing from 10Wxx to 5Wxx.

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I was informed in another thread that the "Yamaha Recommended" setting is "7".  The fellow who wrote that said the info came directly from Yamaha Tech Support.

 

Yes, definitely confirm your current Idle / CO setting if still hard starting during hot conditions.

 

The "still wont start in gear" is a different issue, and I think the generally accepted advice is to try a different, thinner, grade oil first. Try changing from 10Wxx to 5Wxx.

 

Ok cool I'll see if I still have the work order, or just call my dealer.

 

I've been running plain ol Yamalube 10-40, but was ready to switch to synthetic now, so I'll definitely look for something that's 5w-X.

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Ok cool I'll see if I still have the work order, or just call my dealer.

 

I've been running plain ol Yamalube 10-40, but was ready to switch to synthetic now, so I'll definitely look for something that's 5w-X.

 

I'm also running the 10w-40 Yamalube (on what is still essentially a new engine), and I'm not having any trouble starting while in gear.

 

So, either it's colder up there (it gonna be 90 deg here today, mid-Feb! OMG!), or your clutch plate stack is a little bit tighter. That's my guess...

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Rode today. First time out with CO reset to 8. I was having a few restart issues before today's ride, mainly after stalling.

I purposely stalled it several times in 3rd gear to see how it would respond. Fired right up every time in gear. Restarts in neutral are instant. I was using the FMF map.

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Rode today. First time out with CO reset to 8. I was having a few restart issues before today's ride, mainly after stalling.

I purposely stalled it several times in 3rd gear to see how it would respond. Fired right up every time in gear. Restarts in neutral are instant. I was using the FMF map.

 

Thats great news.  The FI mapping has nothing to do with Idle / CO mixture settings. Little to do anyway, we dont really know how "smooth" the curves are, or whether the low throttle / low power curve extends into the idle portion of the operations. They might, but current thinking is, they dont.

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I'm also running the 10w-40 Yamalube (on what is still essentially a new engine), and I'm not having any trouble starting while in gear.

 

So, either it's colder up there (it gonna be 90 deg here today, mid-Feb! OMG!), or your clutch plate stack is a little bit tighter. That's my guess...

 

It is colder up here, 40s today. Though the problem happened all summer long last year when it was 80s and 90s.

 

The clutch plate stack a little tight makes sense though, I may need to look into that.

 

I also talked to the dealer that adjusted it before, the tech that worked on it remembers doing it, but unfortunately they didn't record what it was set to. So I'll have to take it in again if I want to get it checked/reset.

Edited by GP1K

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What does a dealer generally charge for this?  I have a small dealer across from my work and might run across the street to chat with them to see if they could bump it to 7 or 8.  BTW so I don't sound like a dummy, is CO mean Carbon Monoxide?

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