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motoxjeff

X-Trig triple clamp on my '14 YZ 450F...

19 posts in this topic

Just got the x-trig triple clamp for my bike (set to 20, from the stock 22).  Also have the Dr. D radiator lowering kit….love that so far.  Headed to California tomorrow to ride Comp Edge, then Milestone on Weds.  Can't wait to try out the different off-set.

 

http://imageshack.com/a/img268/4599/876y.JPG

 

 

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20 is a bit much at Comp edge...going to milestone today where it's much tighter. Hopefully the 20 will work better there. Still on the fence on whether or not I want to go back to the stock offset of 22!

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Keep us posted, a friend is buying really soon.  Now that you got some time on the bike are you still liking better than the crf?

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Where did you get the clamps from? What kind of price? I called Dubach a weekago and they told me the 2014 rad. lowering kit was not done yet, maybe a month or so. Does the 2013 fit or do you know someone?

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Keep us posted, a friend is buying really soon.  Now that you got some time on the bike are you still liking better than the crf?

 

The CRF is much lighter, and agile no doubt.  This bike is just has a monster power band, and is much more stable.  I can jump this bike a lot better than the CRF.  I have a lot of confidence on the new YZ.  I highly recommend it.

 

Where did you get the clamps from? What kind of price? I called Dubach a weekago and they told me the 2014 rad. lowering kit was not done yet, maybe a month or so. Does the 2013 fit or do you know someone?

 

I was on a waiting list for them a few weeks ago, and Cody (the kid who works there) called me and told me he got a few in from the supplier.  I don't know if the '14 is the same for the '13 as far as the radiator lowering kit goes.  

 

There is only one distributor in the U.S. for X-trigs (KYB out of CA).  You can go on their web-site and click on retailers and see.  I got them for 800 bucks….pricey, yes I know.  But I thought it was way cool to be able to switch your off-set from 22 to 20 depending on the track.  The make on these are top notch, and the rubber mounts are amazing.  Reed runs them on his works Kawi.  Long story short, I actually like the stock off set of 22 (much more stable/ predictable).  The lowering kit is awesome.  I will post pics soon

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Thx just ordered the Xtrig clamps will have them on Tuesday and called Dr D and the 2014 kits will be in 2 weeks and I'm on the list.

Hey Denaki, how you finding the X trigs, have they come down in price yet, what they end up costing you ?

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Clamps are great love them, maybe that's why you can't find them used, you can change them for stock 22 mm to 20 mm and back as much as you want to for different tracks. $769 is the best I found and he's was near by with fast cheap shipping. You can find him on EBay under the name spi-racing.

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I'm Nar Cal and his shop is about 2 hours away, $7 shipping and it was here in 1 day! I'll be posting a picture today of my bike under 2014 2015 pics.

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Im running the X Trig triple clamps on my YZ 450 2014 now

 

One thing i DONT like is you cant get enough tension on the head bolt due to the fact it has no lock nut, (that sits below the top clamp & keeps tension on the bottom half) like the stock system does on all bikes.

 

Even with red lock tight, new bearings & cups top & bottom when the bikes on a stand the bars literally fall from one side to the other

 

Anyone else find this with them ?

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...it has no lock nut,

I don't follow.  The YZ top triple clamp sets up with a ring nut under the clamp that is set to ~5-6 ft/lb, the top clamp sits down on that, and then the crown nut goes on at 105 ft/lb; that locks it and increases the tension on the bearings by pushing the ring nut down, moving it the amount available as thread clearance.  Nothing on the clamp itself locks anything at the stem.

 

How does the X-Trig differ?

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I don't follow.  The YZ top triple clamp sets up with a ring nut under the clamp that is set to ~5-6 ft/lb, the top clamp sits down on that, and then the crown nut goes on at 105 ft/lb; that locks it and increases the tension on the bearings by pushing the ring nut down, moving it the amount available as thread clearance.  Nothing on the clamp itself locks anything at the stem.

 

How does the X-Trig differ?

Thats what im saying the X Trig system doesn't have that second lock nut that sits under the top clamp.

 

The one lock nut on the top is all you have to hold the tension. It does have an 8mm locking screw on the top clamp similar to the KTM system

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So, you took your steering stem ring nut off to change the clamps and didn't put it back?

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So, you took your steering stem ring nut off to change the clamps and didn't put it back?

Theres no option to put it back because theres no thread on the X trig shaft where it wld normally go

 

They obviously felt it wasnt needed

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I plan on getting the same clamp.. could you post some pictures of it? I am trying to see how much room there is between the bar mounts and from the back side of the top clamp to the frame neck. trying to figure out if i will have problems mounting a ohlins stabilizer with it. Can not seem to find anyone with that set up. 

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Im running the X Trig triple clamps on my YZ 450 2014 now

 

One thing i DONT like is you cant get enough tension on the head bolt due to the fact it has no lock nut, (that sits below the top clamp & keeps tension on the bottom half) like the stock system does on all bikes.

 

Even with red lock tight, new bearings & cups top & bottom when the bikes on a stand the bars literally fall from one side to the other

 

Anyone else find this with them ?

I have the xtrig on a 14 yz250.  Great clamp. Make sure when securing the nut above the upper clamp, that the bolts for the fork tubes and stem on the upper clamp are loose, or you won't be compressing the bearings in the head tube.  Xtrig should list a torque, but they just say "adjust to desired bearing clearance" .  If you are doing it correctly, verify the part number and thickness of the spacer (if supplied) that sits under the top clamp. I received an incorrect thickness spacer for my kit.  Also its a good idea to measure the total thickness including the spanner nut of the stock set up and compare to total thickness including spacer if supplied of the xtrig kit. I found a few mm's difference with a CRF that I was installing the kit on. The only issue with the difference is that when you slide your fork tubes into the upper clamp, and bolt them down, if the new clamp height is different, you'll be changing your fork tube "stock" position without realizing it.  Great clamp, tons of bar position options. I don't prefer the ktm style pinch bolt, but it works fine regardless. 

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I have the xtrig on a 14 yz250.  Great clamp. Make sure when securing the nut above the upper clamp, that the bolts for the fork tubes and stem on the upper clamp are loose, you saying you keep the 2 stem alen bolts, (that bolt the stem to the lower clamp?)  loose & re tighten last ? Theres nothing about this step in the instructions ? or you won't be compressing the bearings in the head tube.  Xtrig should list a torque, but they just say "adjust to desired bearing clearance"   If you are doing it correctly, verify the part number and thickness of the spacer (if supplied) that sits under the top clamp. I received an incorrect thickness spacer for my kit. Mmm not sure if mine is the corect one, bought it second hand, but struggle to see how this wld affect the amount of tension you can get on the securing nut ?  Also its a good idea to measure the total thickness including the spanner nut of the stock set up and compare to total thickness including spacer if supplied of the xtrig kit. I found a few mm's difference with a CRF that I was installing the kit on. The only issue with the difference is that when you slide your fork tubes into the upper clamp, and bolt them down, if the new clamp height is different, you'll be changing your fork tube "stock" position without realizing it.  Great clamp, tons of bar position options. I don't prefer the ktm style pinch bolt, but it works fine regardless. 

Hi as above

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you saying you keep the 2 stem alen bolts, (that bolt the stem to the lower clamp?)  loose & re tighten last ? Theres nothing about this step in the instructions ?

 

He is saying to keep the upper clamp pinch bolts at the fork tubes loose until after the crown nut is finally tightened.  If the fork tubes are tightened before the stem and crown, they can hold the clamp up slightly and cause it to tilt on square, then failing the clamp against the head bearings as a result. 

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