A new Puzzle: My starter knows what gear I am in....?

My 2008 will not start in gear, all of a sudden.

I don't mean it has trouble, or clicks, it just is 'quiet' when you push the button. Dead quiet.

Click it in to neutral, and viola, it starts right up.

This happened on the last two rides, and I thought it was just me, or a weak battery, as it was too noisy to notice that the button went 'silent' in gear.

...and no, I do not have a clutch over-ride circuit on my clutch perch.

 

I don't think this motor has a gear position selector wire, but if it does, where and how is it effecting my stater circuit ??

Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick

Aftermarket perch?

Not totally sure on the 2008, but on the 2006 there is the stock override- if you had it stock on your 2008 and went to an aftermarket perch I'd be chasing that wire and solve for that circuit as the culprit.

^^^ What he said. This is the reason I have not tried ARC (etc.) levers on my WRs. I didn't want the hassle of trying to machine in a spot for that switch and I didn't want to always jerk the bike if I tried starting it in gear.

The neutral switch is located near the shift shaft on the left side.  From the start button, the blue/red lead runs to a diode under the tank, #5 in your wiring schematic, then looks for a ground at either the neutral switch or the clutch switch to complete the operating circuit at the starter relay.  The diode or the clutch switch may be at fault, or the associated wiring.

I have no clutch switch.

I am assuming since it has started in gear for the last 4 years that something came disconnected 

From your description it sounds like having the blue/red lead disconnected would make it start in gear, but it doesn't.... I'm confused

Yah, I don't have the clutch switch either since I went to the full Sunline clutch perch.  But I don't recall what I did to my switch wires though.  I believe I wired them together.

I am assuming since it has started in gear for the last 4 years that something came disconnected

Or the diode has failed.  But disconnecting the blue/red would make the starter completely non-functional.

Pull your manual out and flip to the schematic on 6-1.  Starter relay is item 10. note the power flow through the magnet circuit of the relay to the button (#19) then out to the diode (#5).  If you take the blue/red off at the button or the diode and run it from the button to the ground, the starter should work regardless of the clutch or the neutral switch position.  Since the bike starts in neutral, you can assume that the whole circuit is fine if you follow it from the button through the diode, down the light blue lead to the neutral switch.  At least one of the neutral or clutch switches must be closed so that the blue/red lead is eventually grounded through them.

 

The part that is likely at fault is the branch that runs from the diode to the clutch switch (#4).  The blue/yellow lead from the diode normally gets a ground through the clutch switch when the lever is pulled, but in the absence of a clutch switch, you would need to ground the blue/yellow to the chassis to complete the circuit. 

 

As I said, you should be able to ground the blue/yellow coming from the diode and have the starter work.  If not, the diode has failed on that side.  If it starts with the diode grounded that way, you just need to connect the blue/yellow to ground someplace.  That was probably already done when the clutch switch was removed, or it wouldn't have worked. 

 

Likewise, the starter should also work if you ground the light blue at the diode, even if it's in gear.  Grounding the blue/red at the diode should make the starter functional no matter what, and you could ground it at that point and bypass both of the safety switches, if you choose.

Thank you GR

No problem.  Let us know what you find out. 

 

Note that when I suggest grounding the lead coming out of the diode that the blue/red lead must obviously be connected to the diode while the test is done.  This will mean that the ground you place on the blue/yellow will have to be done by "back probing" the connector.  You're clear on how to do that, I'm guessing?

No problem.  Let us know what you find out. 

 

Note that when I suggest grounding the lead coming out of the diode that the blue/red lead must obviously be connected to the diode while the test is done.  This will mean that the ground you place on the blue/yellow will have to be done by "back probing" the connector.  You're clear on how to do that, I'm guessing?

 Yes sir I do

Ever find a solution?

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