Rekluse EXP question

Anyone running one of these in a 12' or newer? I am having an issue with to much bike creep and to much clutch slip (cable is adjusted correctly). I've always ran the Pro version with quick engagement (light spring) and heavier tungsten balls with no issues. I have to keep the idle at about 1900rpms for flame out reasons and with light springs (red) just wont work (blue medium spring) helps but still creeps to much even in 2nd. That said, with the blue springs it has way to much slip and doesn't seem to engage completely until the upper rpm range. I looked at the Rekluse site and found these wedges but not sure how that helps (maybe like the heavier tungsten balls)? The only suggestion I was given by Rekluse was to go with heavier springs but that's just not going to work. Anyone have a set up that is working for them?

All silver springs and the heaviest wedges work great, and I'm a big guy.

When set up correctly, it will creep, period.

 

Flame out can be solved with proper jetting/FI mapping and intake/exhaust tuning

 

Clutch slips when? It's supposed to slip ALL THE TIME below the engagement rpm, which is about 2500-3000 rpm.

If you try and short shift with the EXP, it will slip.

 

The Core EXP works much better, and mine never slips. Adjustment is more precise, and there is no cable 'pre-loading' required.

You  can't even tell it's there until you stop.

The amount of spring tension in a Rekluse is used to adjust the engagement RPM.  The weight of the balls or wedges is used to adjust the engagement rate, which is the RPM range over which it goes from beginning to engage to being fully engaged.  I found that medium springs (yielding a medium engagement point) and using 24 rather than 27 balls (for a slower engagement rate) worked the best on a desert raced YZ450, but that's a Z-Start Pro, so it may not be applicable to the EXP 2.0 on your WR.  It does, however, greatly reduce the occurrence of stalling when you decide to accelerate up the side of something while you're a gear too high for it, and also stalling going from a low speed moderate load to a sudden throttle chop.  That last type of flameout is aggravated by running too rich at idle, as krannie noted, so be sure you haven't fattened up the pilot in a misdirected attempt to gain better throttle response.

No pilot...the bike is an injected 2012+

All silver springs and the heaviest wedges work great, and I'm a big guy.

When set up correctly, it will creep, period.   - They will creep a little but shouldn't be anything that putting your foot down wont stop. I would try the silver springs but without a heavier wedge to lock it in faster I'm afraid it will just add more slipping.

 

Flame out can be solved with proper jetting/FI mapping and intake/exhaust tuning  - Idle rpms seem to have a lot to do with the FI bike, at least on the idle to throttle type single track I ride. Manual says 1900-2100 and at 2100 I have never had the bike flame out. Had it down to 1700 and it would hardly stay running without pulling the in the clutch (override). 1900 seems to be pretty decent with only an occasional stall.

 

Clutch slips when? It's supposed to slip ALL THE TIME below the engagement rpm, which is about 2500-3000 rpm.

If you try and short shift with the EXP, it will slip. It slips to much at those rpms as it sits. I'm thinking the heavier wedges would solve it possibly.

 

The Core EXP works much better, and mine never slips. Adjustment is more precise, and there is no cable 'pre-loading' required.

You  can't even tell it's there until you stop.

Your RPM's should be 1900-2100. Its 2000 + or - 100 RPM.

Edited by vlxjim

The lighter the springs, the LESS it will slip.

The heavier the wedges, the FASTER it will engage.

The higher the rpm, the more is will creep, and badly.

 

Do you have the GYTR ECU, re-map and pipe?

If not, it will never run properly.

I put a EXP 2.0 on my stock 2012 WR with no set up problems. I installed it as it was shipped to me and per their instructions. I would have to go out in the cold garage to get the instructions but not tonight. Rekluse is real good about helping and answering questions to figure out what was going on and make it good. I have the GYTR silencer & ECU but I have not programmed the ECU. I had major problems with the 2.0 on my DRZ435 and called them for help. Had to put stronger springs & heavier wedges in but they finally were able to assist with the set up.

Called Rekluse and they have a few suggestions to help me get it tuned to how I want it. Thanks for the feedback.

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