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700rScott

2006 YZ450f 50th Anniversary

74 posts in this topic

I picked this bike up over the weekend and it needs some help. I'm not sure if the jetting is correct since the guy I got it off of said it poped on decel, they put the stock exhaust back on so I think it needs to be tweeked a little. Dose anyone know where I should start for getting it back to running on a stock pipe? The muffler is bent so I will be getting a new full FMF Q4 with mega bomb system but I want to get it street legal before I do the exhaust. The plans with the bike are to get it street legal and use it more of a XC bike than a MX bike. I was looking at eventulallty getting super moto wheels and tire, a hydrolic clutch and rekluse clutch to help out with trail riding.

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The hydraulic clutch idea will likely clash with the use of a Rekluse.   Snow-on-the-ground cold weather jetting should be 48/170, needle at 5.  After the outside air temps get up to 45-50 again, 45/165, needle in 4.

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The hydraulic clutch idea will likely clash with the use of a Rekluse.   Snow-on-the-ground cold weather jetting should be 48/170, needle at 5.  After the outside air temps get up to 45-50 again, 45/165, needle in 4.

I never thought of that since i figured it just pulls it in like a normal clutch when you shift and I don't plan on riding in the winter so it would be 40 degrees and above. I went riding two weeks ago on my buddies wr400 and with the extra gear on it sucked so I figured if it's gonna be cold I'll ride my wolverine.

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The clutch pull with a Rekluse is to some extent "normal", but the setup is not.

 

First, hydraulic clutch master cylinders are mostly self adjusting.  That is, there is a spring within the slave cylinder that extends it until the push (or "pull") rod encounters significant resistance, so it will take up any slack that develops.  As the clutch wears, the free play disappears, and the slave cylinder is compressed by the clutch back to the zero play point again.  It's able to do this by forcing fluid back to the master cylinder and up into the reservoir through the fill/return port. 

 

Using a Z-Start Pro, the real free travel can only be set after the engine is raised to a speed above the engagement RPM.  When the engine idles down, there is a whole lever's throw of free travel available, and the slave cylinder would likely extend to take that up.  Then, when raising the RPM in expectation of launching the bike, the clutch would be held disengaged by the fluid in the extended cylinder until it had time to be moved back to the master cylinder reservoir.

 

With the EXP clutches, the free play is once again set at a speed above the engagement RPM, but here, the opposite thing will occur.  When the engine idles down the EXP ring contracts, releasing the clutch.  That makes the clutch plate stack shrink away from the pressure plate, so now the free play is gone, and the clutch push rod is holding the clutch disengaged by what amounts to "negative free travel".  If the clutch can then push fluid out of the slave back to the master, the clutch will simply re-engage itself as the fluid moves back upstream, and you'll loose the auto release feature.

 

This is predicated on the slave cylinder being of the self-adjusting type now common to the automotive world.  If the after market units don't follow that pattern, but instead have some means of manually fixing the free travel adjustment at any one point, it can be done, but IMO, there's no advantage to having one on a YZ450F anyway. 

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Maybe I might be better off just getting the rekluse then, kicking a bike on a hill is no fun. For the Carb do you think this would be the best jetting since I'll be using it in the warmer weather?  "45/165, needle in 4". My wolverine I had set up a few years ago and haven't touched it since and on the raptor the EFI was so easy, just click the mouse to send the map.

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For the Carb do you think this would be the best jetting since I'll be using it in the warmer weather?  "45/165, needle in 4".

 

I run that in mine.  Works just fine here year round.

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I run that in mine.  Works just fine here year round.

Okay, I'll have to tear it out and do a over haul on it. I guess a standard FMF jet kit would have that or do I have to order them each?

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I always avoid jet kits of any kind.  Use genuine Keihin parts and buy only what you need.

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I always avoid jet kits of any kind.  Use genuine Keihin parts and buy only what you need.

Ok, is there a good place to buy the parts and for doing a exhaust later do I reuse the needle or do I need a different one? also what type of jets are they? with it being messed with I  figured I should start off from scrach. I found parts on JetsRus with a rebuild kit and then they have the different jets.

 

please fill in

air??__

Leak??__

slow/pilot??____

main??____

needle position 3??

Needle??___

fuel screw turns??__

Edited by 700rScott

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Ok, is there a good place to buy the parts and for doing a exhaust later do I reuse the needle or do I need a different one? also what type of jets are they? with it being messed with I  figured I should start off from scrach. I found parts on JetsRus with a rebuild kit and then they have the different jets.

 

please fill in

air??__

Leak??__

slow/pilot??____

main??____

needle position 3??

Needle??___

fuel screw turns??__

Pilot air jet is a 100

Stock needle is an NFPR

 

Use the same needle regardless, and start with the same jetting I recommended when you get the new exhaust.

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I've tried the magura hydraulic clutches and had issues with the slave cylinders leaking. Usually during a Race of course. They did warranty the slave cylinders. But they have you by the balls because they don't sell a rebuild kit, you must buy a new slave everytime. Very costly.

I tried them because they sponsored the team , but ended up with more problems then what it's worth. Put the cable back on and been reliable ever since. Never looked back.

The rekluse will help your out though

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Thanks guys for the info I think if it was electric start I would just do the hydrolic clutch but with the kick I'm gonna plan on doing the rekluse clutch since I get into some rocky and tight trails.

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I got the Pro Moto billet kick stand and Moose handguard / bark buster bracket in last night. I started taking the forks apart to send the legs out for service and the rear shock is ready to come out as soon as I bring all the tools over to the new garage, to get the swing arm off.
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Santa was extra good to me this year so I have a FMF Q4 with Mega Bomb header so now I have to figure out the jetting for the exhaust. Do you have any idea what I would need for this? Thanks

Pilot air jet is a 100

Stock needle is an NFPR

Use the same needle regardless, and start with the same jetting I recommended when you get the new exhaust.

Santa was extra good to me this year so I have a FMF Q4 with Mega Bomb header so now I have to figure out the jetting for the exhaust. Should I still stick with the 45/165 like you said earlier? I've also read that some one was saying they had a good experience with running a NCYR needle, and with the clip at #2, 160 main, 45 Pilot, Fuel Screw at 1.75 but that was for another aftermarket exhaust.

Edited by 700rScott

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Google the MXA and Dirt Rider, Dirt Bike Reviews/tests from 06.  They all say the pilot jet is lean and pops like crazy on decel. 

 

I have an 06 and started all stock. I put in a 45 pilot and the decel pop was better but not gone with stock pipe.  I threw on an FMF pipe and the decel pop got a little worse. 

 

I just got a 48 pilot jet to try.

 

Virtually every post on TT says run the 48 and the magazines test say the same

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Google the MXA and Dirt Rider, Dirt Bike Reviews/tests from 06.  They all say the pilot jet is lean and pops like crazy on decel. 

 

I have an 06 and started all stock. I put in a 45 pilot and the decel pop was better but not gone with stock pipe.  I threw on an FMF pipe and the decel pop got a little worse. 

 

I just got a 48 pilot jet to try.

 

Virtually every post on TT says run the 48 and the magazines test say the same

Ok I'll try both then and is the main jet is a 165?

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I got the bike all tore part the other night and I need to drop the forks and rear shock off to RG3 this week for them to service the suspension. The rest of the parts are on their way so once I get some time it should go pretty quick.

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I got some stuff done this weekend. I got the suspension back, new cables on and a few other things done.

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I still need to do most of the lighting and trail tech wiring but I wanted to see it with the plastics on. This is what she should look like when I'm all done.
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I know the turn signals aren't perfect but they are pretty close and it gets me pass the inspection. I'm not sure how long the left one will last but I'm pretty sure the right one should be safe for a little bit.
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