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4 posts in this topic
I recently rebuilt a 2001 CR250. It ran when I bought it but it had a crack in the left side of the crank case near the flywheel cover, I'm guessing oil got in when I ran it (like an idiot), and it bogged down and shut off on me after 15 minutes of riding and wouldn't start back up. I since replaced the left side crank case, painted the frame, and put her back together. I did a spark test and got no spark. Forgot to sand down some grounding spots so I did that. Didn't want to take the whole motor out so I sanded as best as I could between engine and engine mounts. Still got nothing. I assumed from my research it was the CDI. Bought an aftermarket HPI CDI box. Still nothing. Got an electrosport stator that came with the wiring harness and pick up coil, still nothing. Got a new kill switch and ignition coil. STILL nothing. Put an extra ground harness from a bolt on the crankcase to a sanded spot on the frame.. annnd nothing.. Anyone have any suggestions? I used a multimeter (when I had access to one) on the old components, they seemed to read just fine.. Is it even worth my time getting my hands on another multimeter to test an all brand new electrical system? Desperate here and trying to avoid taking her to the shop someone please help!!
I have a lighting question... I have a 1993 Suzuki DR250P it came stock with a headlight and taillight that runs off of the engine and the bike has no battery. I would like to put an additional light in the headlight shroud vent under the factory headlight (small rectangle 'vent' spot in the shroud under the headlight) . I know I probably need a very low watt light, but since the lights runs off the engine is there a maximum watt that I need to keep in mind? the factory light is not great and my funds are very limited right now. So upgrading the factory headlight to some over priced brand new set up is not an option, i'm looking for a super cheap LED light (around $5 to $20) that will fit in the lower vent on the headlight shroud.. Probably 1&1/2" tall (2" tall max) and (1&1/4" tall is ideal), by 4" long (4&1/2 ideal) 5" max width. i'll be hooking up a switch so I can turn the 'extra' light off in daytime and turn it on at night for road use. i'd appreciate any exact fitment lights that others have put in this same spot. I've seen other endure/baja bikes with extra lights in this spot and love the way they look and would love to find one that fits perfect although I have a background in fabrication and can make about anything mount sturdy with custom hand made mounts etc if needed... i'm just having questions about what 'watt' should be my max (or my target watt light) since the lights work off of the engine (and if anyone has put a light here and what they used, and how it worked.) appreciate any recommendations or advice, Thanks
read up on past posts and got busy testing my buddy's '00 drzS which runs it's battery dead when ridden.new rectifier and all connections checked over(so he says) so i unplugged the three yellow wires from the stator that go to the rectifier and probed them with the multimeter (red) and grounded out on the motor(black) and got plenty of resistance.what do we need to do next? what does the parts man need to charge us for this time?
hi there, I recently bought the ricky stator ltz400 stator after having seen a post confirming that after soldering the old harness on the new stator worked.
unfortunately, after I completed my work, the bike no longer starts. im really not sure where to start. I unplugged the connector with the blue/green/white/grey wires from the box under the seat, and managed to test the blue/green resistance at 0.52 on whatever resistance scale my meter was on. I did not test the black/white wires.
the battery is fully charged, the main fuse is intact, the starter runs strongly, the bike just doesnt fire.. it ran fine before taking it apart, so im sure i've messed up the job somewhere along the line. Im going to recheck to make sure I didnt reverse some wires along the way. That cloth insulation is annoying, I finally ended up using an exacto knife to carefully trim it off.
Anyone having or had problems with the starter not turning over easily on the 450X???
I have read about this problem on CRF's ONLY and not seen anyone come up with a fix.
Problem being is that you think there is a problem with the battery, when infact the battery is OK. When you have a good fully charged battery in the bike and press the e-start, it turns over very slowly.
I have checked the electrical circuit and it seems OK. I am wondering if it might be the starter itself - any suggestions?????