motoxjeff

2014-17 YZ450F Picture thread! Share yours!

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You understand that the TorqDrive Core is a manual clutch, correct? If you were wondering if the Rekluse auto clutch would reduce clutch drag, it doesn't. Brand new clutch plates do, though. As far as the TorqDrive is concerned, the only thing really different about it and the stock clutch, aside from the billet parts, is the fact that it uses a 12 & 12 plate stack, instead of the stock 8 & 7. Since clutch drag is caused by the plates dragging against one another, I'd be very surprised to find out that particular clutch had less of it. But, who knows?

Absolutely I understand it's a manual clutch. My hope is the "higher" quality machining and billet components along with the basket shims will allow the clutch to disengage more readily.

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Absolutely I understand it's a manual clutch. My hope is the "higher" quality machining and billet components along with the basket shims will allow the clutch to disengage more readily.

First, I'm just some lowly desert rider but my complaint with the stock clutch is after a while in the slow stuff where I'm clutching constantly the stock clutch DOESNT have a very firm, or positive disengagement. 

 

I don't know if this will fix it or not but I got the clutch for next to nothing so I figured I would give it a try. Rekluse hooked me up because one of the guys we sponsor is also sponsored by them. 

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Wow that's a fair few hours I've only got 9.8 on mine lol with the breather relocation thing is it done just how it looks like you just still a hole in either side of the airbox cover?? Use it annoying when refueling do you have to disconnect it from the fuel cap??

Yeaa I ride it quite a bit lol. I've had it since April 2014. But I just drilled on hole in the dimple where the hose normally sits just in from of the seat. And another one just in front of the top bolt for the air box. And just pulled the hose through. But I made the hole a bit smaller than the hose so I had to almost force the hose through the holes. Just so it would be a tight fit to prevent water and dirt from going in there. Edited by ttr230rider6

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Just a quick Instagram pic from after a ride the other day after I washed her up.

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412207190.662459.jpg

And after an oil change today I remember people posting about relocating their gas vent hose so I went ahead and did it. Looks soo much cleaner

Before

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412207317.544992.jpg

After attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412207341.812078.jpg

I have 70.8 good hours on it so far, with many more to come!

. Have you done any work to the motor? I just bought one and I'm so impressed. I normally put 100-120hrs each year on a bike and then upgrade, so it would be good to get away with just doing one top end.

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. Have you done any work to the motor? I just bought one and I'm so impressed. I normally put 100-120hrs each year on a bike and then upgrade, so it would be good to get away with just doing one top end.[/quote

Not a thing lol. I change the oil every 5 hours, the oil filter every 10 hours and I clean the air filter every 8-10 hours unless it is real dirty before then. She is still running very strong, but I am going to check my valves this winter for sure just to be safe. I don't say I will be doing the top end tho.

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. Have you done any work to the motor? I just bought one and I'm so impressed. I normally put 100-120hrs each year on a bike and then upgrade, so it would be good to get away with just doing one top end.[/quote

Not a thing lol. I change the oil every 5 hours, the oil filter every 10 hours and I clean the air filter every 8-10 hours unless it is real dirty before then. She is still running very strong, but I am going to check my valves this winter for sure just to be safe. I don't say I will be doing the top end tho.

 

Yikes! I have two spare air filters, mine gets a freshie before every ride.

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Unless it's on watered tracks only, or he's never behind anyone, the filter should be cleaned for each ride day.  Remove the top of your carb and have a look.  Dusty?  Only one way for that to happen. 

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Unless it's on watered tracks only, or he's never behind anyone, the filter should be cleaned for each ride day. Remove the top of your carb and have a look. Dusty? Only one way for that to happen.

It's fuel injected... Can't check the carb lol. And it's never even that dirty when I clean it. I mostly ride at gravel pits. And it's never really dusty or super wet. It's a pretty average condition. Not usually behind anyone cause I don't ride track and I only trail ride every now and again. I check it and if it's not dirty I don't clean it

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I had to take out a lot of the free play in the clutch below spec. I'm assuming once it's worn in ill need to adjust a bit.

Edit - so I don't have to make another post without a pic: rode for a little over an hour today with the red springs. It seem a little stiffer than stock, but was exactly what I was looking for. It seems much more positive disengaging and has an initial "bite" than the stock setup. Other than that there's zero difference.

AC84EB25-11BC-4F57-9870-F59C2AEAFD59_zps

00F9AA7E-31E8-472C-A435-57ECAB31A7E5_zps

Edited by forgotmyusername
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I bought the bike with an akrapovik exhaust. So I cant compare it to stock. But I can say the bike is a beast compared to my honda 450 11. It does not stall like the Honda and has a great clutch.

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Another day different track comparing fmf to stock. Had tuner today for some mapping. Stock is still killing it for me.

Fmf is loud on the bike. It disracts me, heaps of over rev but takes away torque. Ebay for fmf

1413107262598.jpg

1413107284578.jpg

1413107301071.jpg

1413107321085.jpg

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Still haven't had time to ride it...left for vacation right after I picked it up.  Maybe this weekend if the rain lets up.

 

photo_zps38f03624.jpg

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