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new605guy

New '11 WR450 or '12WR450

77 posts in this topic

I have the opportunity to get a new 2011 WR450 (no FI) or a new 2012 WR450. Cost difference is about a grand. First, Is the '12 WR450 better than the '11? If so, is it a thousand dollars better?

 

Scott

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It's about $4,000 better.

There is NO REASON for buying a 2011 unless you can get it for $5,000.00

You can get a used 2007, which is the same as a 2011, for about $3,000.00

Edited by Krannie

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I would only get the 11.Almost all the riders I ride with 12-13 Too many problems.Also big $ too make run right,much less $ too set up  11 or older.BTR

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There is NO REASON for buying a 2011 unless you can get it for $5,000.00

 

I would say even less than that. I bought a left over new '12 in August '13 for $6k out the door, so a left over '11 should be only worth $4k or so. The '12+ is SO much better than the '07-'11 it's not even funny. Absolutely worth the extra money!

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I would only get the 11.Almost all the riders I ride with 12-13 Too many problems.Also big $ too make run right,much less $ too set up  11 or older.BTR

LOL

Whatever dude....

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I would only get the 11.Almost all the riders I ride with 12-13 Too many problems.Also big $ too make run right,much less $ too set up  11 or older.BTR

 

Problems? Too much to make run right?

 

You must be thinking of another bike as these two statements could not be further from the truth.

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Ok just look at the posts,STARTING Problems.Get real further the truth.After doing tours in Baja over 25 years.How many 12-13 Wrs do I see in a month and how many do you see.?

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I would only get the 11.Almost all the riders I ride with 12-13 Too many problems.Also big $ too make run right,much less $ too set up  11 or older.BTR

About the only problem the 12s have is they don't start the best. Nothing that a $75 tuner and 45 minutes won't fix completely. Compare that to rejetting a carbed bike several times until its right... until the weather changes... until you ride at a different elevation... until you put a pipe on it.

And with the '12, you flip open the access panel and plug the tool in. When you jet a carb, you have to drop the sub frame, pull the filter box, pull the carb, tear it down, etc, etc. I do not miss those days one bit.

And did I mention that my '12 starts one kick 90% of the time when its hot ? And it doesn't flood when you lay it down.

Even if the '11 was as nimble and suspended as good as the '12, I would still take the '12 over the '11 simply because it runs so clean and crisp all the time.

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Thats the whole point,after mods.Still start problems read below how many people have problems.The guys I ride with in Baja way more problems to get the 12-13 to start right.Also my 07 runs from sea level/up to 10,000ft with carb.I would not buy estart bike to have to kick it.

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Thats the whole point,after mods.Still start problems read below how many people have problems.

The only issue the '12 has with starting is that the battery is a bit weak in stock form and the engines are tuned a bit lean at idle. Very, very simple to fix both.

The guys I ride with in Baja way more problems to get the 12-13 to start right.

Get them to read this forum. The fix is pretty simple.

Also my 07 runs from sea level/up to 10,000ft with carb.

Your carb defies physics. You should bottle it and sell it. Powerful stuff.

I did a ride from 3,000 to 8,000+ feet with 5 other bikes, all carbed, last month. Every rider had a point where their bike wasn't running at its best. My WR was great the whole time.

I would not buy estart bike to have to kick it.

Then don't. FYI, a WR with electric start isn't any more expensive than a comparable bike without it. And with auto compression and EFI, it has to be one of the best kick starting bikes ever.

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To the original post, get the 12'. The extra $1000 is worth the suspension alone.

 

I would only get the 11.Almost all the riders I ride with 12-13 Too many problems.Also big $ too make run right,much less $ too set up  11 or older.BTR

I have had zero problems with mine, starts just fine kick or button. The bike runs fine in stock trim and even better once you do the upgrades, no different than stuff you would do on any other bike. Adjustments are typical of the older models and where you spend the extra on the comp ECU/tuner you would spend more setting up the suspension on the 11' and still not be as good as  the 12' stock.

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I would only get the 11.Almost all the riders I ride with 12-13 Too many problems.Also big $ too make run right,much less $ too set up  11 or older.BTR

 

So starting issues aside (which took all of one hour labor at my dealer to fix) what are all these big $$ you speak of to make it run right? Mine ran fine bone stock, and now runs like a raped ape with just an FMF slip-on and FI tune.

 

About the only argument I could see is the GYTR FI tuner costs a lot more than a jetting kit. But you can't customize your power delivery in 30 seconds with a plug-in tool on a carb'ed bike like you can the FI. Nor could you share a jetting kit with your buddies (or a dealer) if they have the same or similar (YZF) bike like you can with the FI tool.

 

Other than that, I just don't see it. The frame and suspension alone are way better than > 11's and worth the price of admission right there.

 

I'll take my 12 with it's teething problems over a > 11 any day and twice on Sunday.

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There is always at least one dipshit who doesn't know what he's talking about or is too afraid of new tech he has to bitch.

 

Too expensive to get to run right...what a &%$#@!ing idiot.

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