My WR450 25 pound trim off...

Removed starter, battery, starter gears, speedo and some other small stuff from my 12" and difference is noticeable. It's still heavy when compared to my 12" 250SX smoker and i'm probably a bit faster on a ktm. Wr is still great and versatile machine. Not sure yet which bike i like more.

 

Been also trying some suspension mods to my WR. Ohlins TTX rear shock, TTX cartridge kit and ohlins steering damper. Rear shock is from 2009 yz450f and it works really good, cartridge kit is from 2012 yz250f and probably need some revalving. Not sure if i really need steering damper but atleast it looks tricky. WR is really stable when compared to KTM. Maybe i should install it to KTM...

 

Registered over three years ago and first post now. Hello everyone.

Dude, WTF.

 

The stock WR comes with the BEST FORKS ever made, KYB SSS, and one of the best shocks too.

 

You just need to respring and revalve them.

 

Sell that Olins stuff to pay for the WP upgrades....

Calm down man. I know what everybody says about SSS-suspension and i don't disagree. 

Found ohlins stuff for a good price so i decided to give it a try. And shock really is good, not gonna sell it. Not so sure about those cartridges though.

Calm down man. I know what everybody says about SSS-suspension and i don't disagree. 

Found ohlins stuff for a good price so i decided to give it a try. And shock really is good, not gonna sell it. Not so sure about those cartridges though.

I WILL NOT CALM DOWN.... just yet.

 

EBAY!

Krannie, as I recall, you went with '06 YZ forks. Are all from the '06-'09 generation the same? And any other requirements as far as triple clamps, brakes, axle, etc. or will all of that interchange? I haven't researched much yet, but have been eyeballing YZ forks on eBay recently, as I don't know if I can get comparable performance from my revalved/resprung stock '11 WR forks as much effort as I'm putting in.

'06 YZ fork is a direct swap

'07 and later require the wheel caliper etc

You can attach the WR caliper to the later forks if you dont mind modifying the bracket and if you can do some minor precision machining (spacers).

The stock pre '13 WR forks are very basic and not built very well, and will never have the capacity for both plushness and control like the YZ forks no matter how you modify them. I tried them all

Great info, thanks very much. I'm going to continue working with my stock forks - still working through different compression/rebound settings with different rear sag settings, and will probably try a stiffer shim stack before I track down some '06 forks. I've never ridden with SSS forks, but I have no doubts they're a much better start point than the stock WR forks.

I had Smart Performance do my WR forks.

 

I don't doubt the YZ forks are better but I was happy with the results.

 

I can ride an mx track now without any problems.

Still no picture of this bike?

I wonder how much weight you could drop by bolting on the YZ 250f subframe/rear end?

Still no picture of this bike?

From a distance it looks like any other WR. Even close up there isn't a lot to notice. If you want pictures of details, I have them, but haven't had time to post them. Again, not much to see. Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

The stock pre '13 WR forks are very basic and not built very well, and will never have the capacity for both plushness and control like the YZ forks no matter how you modify them. I tried them all

 

I thought the WR and YZ forks were the same (ie SSS), with different stacks.

 

Did the 2014 WRs get different forks ?

Here is a picture of my bike as it presently sits.

 

DSC_1444.JPG

 

I have the skid plate off because I just washed it and it was full of mud.

The first thing I did to my bike was to remove the headlight, trip computer and misc trim pieces.

 

I used a 15 pound fish scale to weigh every part that came off or went onto my bike.

 

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At the same time I removed the battery, starter relays, relay rubber carrier and fuses.

 

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When you remove the trip computer, you lose the main power on/off switch.  I jumpered it out with a simple spade connector. 

 

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The other 2 contacts in that connector go to the low fuel level indictor.   You could wire an LED into that circuit if you wanted.   I didn't bother.

 

I bought a YZ style number plate to replace the missing headlight.   The YZ upper triple clamp mount has a bolt in front of the triple clamp to mount to.  The WR does not.  I made a bracket from some 3/8" x 3/16" aluminum stock.

 

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Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

The next thing I did was remove the starter.  Having no battery, it was useless.   Furthermore, my bike didn't start well with the starter and starts really well by kicking.

 

There are several steps to removing the starter.

 

1) Remove the ground and power cables.   You'll need to put a jumper between the ground under the seat and the frame when you do this, because  the starter ground appears to be the ONLY connection between the electrical system and the frame on the whole bike.  My bike ran without the ground jumper, but the fuel injection system would cut in and out !

 

2) Remove the starter itself.

 

3) Remove the starter idler gears behind the starter housing cover.

 

4) Remove the starter clutch behind the flywheel.

 

5) Remove the starter button !

 

Here is how one removes the flywheel to get at the starter clutch.  Its pretty simple if you have the tool.

 

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This is the starter clutch.  It weighs 1.3 pounds and some of it is spinning weight !

 

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This is the automotive frost plug that I used to plug the starter hole.  It fits perfectly.

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It presses in easily with a C clamp.  It could be removed without much trouble.

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With the starter gone, you no longer need the starter breather outlet, so plug it off with an automotive vacuum plug cap.

 

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This then allows you to ditch a bunch of breather tube and a Y and streamline the engine breather system.

 

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Every deleted piece on the bike saves weight.  0.2 pounds doesn't seem like much, but 10 of those is 2 pounds, which is nearly 10% of the 25 pound goal.

 

Note: The WR breather system connects to the air box so the engine doesn't draw in water accidentally.   The YZs just use a piece of hose down the front tube of the frame.  They have been known to draw in water with resulting engine damage !

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

There are places to save weight all over the bike.  "Devices" are mounted very heavily on the WR, compared to the YZ.

 

One particular device I changed the mount on was the ECM.  It normally resides behind the left numberplate, by the boil over tank, which I also eliminated. Being that my bike no longer had a battery, I moved the ECM and the capacitor underneath the seat.

 

First I cut out the old battery tray.   This is about the only non reversible change I made to the bike.  I have a TIG welder, so I could always weld it back in if I wanted to.  I would have left the tray in, but it was in the way of relocating the ECM and getting rid of its heavy mount.

 

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I then rerouted the ECM and capacitor cables and mounted them to the top of the air box.  I zip tied the cap and epoxied the ECM.  I've had no trouble with this setup.  It allowed me to get rid of the capacitor bracket as well.

 

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When I added things, I tried to do them in a lightweight way.  Many times you can get ideas from looking at KTM or other brands to see how they have done it.

 

Here is how my mounted my hand guards.

 

DSC_1447.JPG

 

Its simple and light weight, plus the guards don't rotate on the bars when you crash.  And they don't interfere with the control cable routing !

Here is another weight saving idea.

 

DSC_1445.JPG

 

Yamaha builds great bikes, but they often overbuild things by quite a bit, especially on the WR.  Where a KTM has 1 bolt or maybe a plastic piece, Yamaha has 2 bolts and a steel piece.   This is great for reliability and toughness, but sometimes they overdo it.

'06 YZ fork is a direct swap

'07 and later require the wheel caliper etc

You can attach the WR caliper to the later forks if you dont mind modifying the bracket and if you can do some minor precision machining (spacers).

The stock pre '13 WR forks are very basic and not built very well, and will never have the capacity for both plushness and control like the YZ forks no matter how you modify them. I tried them all

 

Error in bold.  '07 YZ250F was the only one that year using the later, smaller caliper, master cylinder, and axle, and the late axle (up to the '13 model year YZ450) fits the standard 20mm bearings.  You just need the axle and spacers from the correct year YZ.  In 2008, all the rest of the line went with the smaller brakes.  From '10 upward, the outer fork tube diameters are different, but the internals are essentially the same, and mostly interchangeable.

 

I switched from an '03 CR250R to an '06 WR450 and I can't really tell much difference either.  The extra weight might even be a benefit, cause you don't seem to bounce around so much...

That's why the XR650 works so well in the rocky stuff; the suspension HAS TO comply whether it wants to or not. :smirk:

I think i may have been caught up in some kind of parallel reverse universe in my dirt biking attempts at utopia, i bought a road registered [street legal] yz450f 2007 and have gradually turned it into a wr from the other side of the mirror, the cost and time spent are on a par with your endeavors, if we carry on in our quest I fear our machines may have reached a point where we may be able to call them a doppelganger or sorts!

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