WR450F 2013 Wont Run After A minute

CRAP! that settles it for me was looking at a new one. Staying with the XR400.

CRAP! that settles it for me was looking at a new one. Staying with the XR400.

 

I wouldn't let one reported issue of a defective tipover switch deter you. Other bikes from other manufacturers come to mind with a plethora of issues.

I wouldn't let one reported issue of a defective tipover switch deter you. Other bikes from other manufacturers come to mind with a plethora of issues.

 

 

that is true! is the power delivery smoother on the WR450 than a CRF450X? I had a 2008 CRF450X and it was too explosive for me in the woods.

that is true! is the power delivery smoother on the WR450 than a CRF450X? I had a 2008 CRF450X and it was too explosive for me in the woods.

 

This bike uncorked is prety explosive as well...I like it that way but I would assume you could tone down the power with the GYT-R Tuner. Others have posted good results using it...think you can pretty much taylor the poser for what you are after.

Yea I just took some timing out of it with the GYTR programer and its much better (smoother).

that is true! is the power delivery smoother on the WR450 than a CRF450X? I had a 2008 CRF450X and it was too explosive for me in the woods.

 

It definitely CAN be explosive, or it can be smooth and tractable, all depends on how you tune it. Just get the comp ECU and GYTR tuner and you can tune the power deliver however you want it.

Why did you use a regulator instead of 2 resistors forming a voltage divider ?

I'm about to remove the lean angle sensor entirely on my bike. Which wire is 5V ? Which is Gnd (return) ? Which is the signal wire ?

Thanks

The top pin is 5volt the bottom is 0 volt and the middle is signal from memory

You could use resisters if you wanted I just had a 3 volt reg laying around

Edited by mattpann

I wouldn't let one reported issue of a defective tipover switch deter you. Other bikes from other manufacturers come to mind with a plethora of issues.

it's the only faulty tip over switch I've heard of it just happened to be mine. Further inspection on it I found a lot of moisture in it. So I think the switch would have lasted if the seal was in correctly. Must of been like it from the factory.

it's the only faulty tip over switch I've heard of it just happened to be mine. Further inspection on it I found a lot of moisture in it. So I think the switch would have lasted if the seal was in correctly. Must of been like it from the factory.

 

I was going to suggest dilectric grease in the connector but it sounds as if you are way beyond that now.

The top pin is 5volt the bottom is 0 volt and the middle is signal from memory

You could use resisters if you wanted I just had a 3 volt reg laying around

Thanks.

Color wise, deciphering from the manual on page 9-73, the supply voltage is color L, signal is the middle wire, which is Y/G and "ground" is B/L.

It definitely CAN be explosive, or it can be smooth and tractable, all depends on how you tune it. Just get the comp ECU and GYTR tuner and you can tune the power deliver however you want it.

+1 on this. The 2012+ WRs are incredible.

I tried to use a resistor divider using 2 820 ohm resistors to replace the angle sensor. It didn't work. I'm not sure why. I was heading out on a ride and didn't have time to troubleshoot it.

I tried to use a resistor divider using 2 820 ohm resistors to replace the angle sensor. It didn't work. I'm not sure why. I was heading out on a ride and didn't have time to troubleshoot it.

 

 

I reckon you will have to simulate the load across 0v and 5 v as well or it will think the switch is disconnected. I did this by putting the voltage reg inside the switch and disconnecting the 

original signal pin and put my reg as the signal.

I tried to use a resistor divider using 2 820 ohm resistors to replace the angle sensor. It didn't work. I'm not sure why. I was heading out on a ride and didn't have time to troubleshoot it.

 

 

I reckon you will have to simulate the load across 0v and 5 v as well or it will think the switch is disconnected. I did this by putting the voltage reg inside the switch and disconnecting the 

original signal pin and put my reg as the signal.

I highly doubt its load sensing. I suspect that the signal connection draws some current and messes up the voltage divider, ie one resistor has more current in it than the other and thus the voltage isn't within range anymore.

I want to get rid of the lean sensor entirely. I'll troubleshoot it when I get time and report back.

I highly doubt its load sensing. I suspect that the signal connection draws some current and messes up the voltage divider, ie one resistor has more current in it than the other and thus the voltage isn't within range anymore.

I want to get rid of the lean sensor entirely. I'll troubleshoot it when I get time and report back.

I know that it has a different fault code for disconnected and now fault code if the output is at 5v just from mine

Raise your idle RPM if your at a higher elevation. 12.3:1 needs faster to stay running. Pull you enrichener if cold. Recycle power if it dies and let fuel pump run again.  

Remember it is to stop the engine from running on its side where the oil can not be scavenged from the bottom of the case. Carb models don't need this due to the carb operation ( mainly the float and bowl) and not fuel injected.

My 2012 service manual on page 9-42 says

"Lean angle sensor output voltage

0.4-1.4 (upright)

3.7-4.4 (overturned)"

This is probably why my voltage divider didn't work. It would have output a voltage of about 2.5 volts.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

+1 on this. The 2012+ WRs are incredible.

What terrain do you ride in? I am in tight woods a lot. Not brutal tight but far from western conditions. E. TX, LA, MS forest type stuff. Weight is my only worry, what do you think? I want the magic button and do not want a KTM. Edited by YHGEORGE

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