WR 450 F for enduro riding?

 

Read the 1st page but not sure what you are trying to point out?

 

From my bike prep notes.

 

Done: Starter: 1.63 lbs

Done: Starter drive gears: 1.05 lbs

Done: Tank mount bracket: 0.39 pounds with the 4 bolts <-- needs reinforcement though

Done: Starter switch and harness to right side rad mount 0.11 lbs

Done: Boil off vent hose, tank to under bike, 0.15 lbs

Done: Head light assembly 1.45 pounds

Done: Reflectors: 0.72 pounds

Done: Trip computer assembly: 0.88 pounds

Done: Battery: 4.60 pounds

Done: Snorkel: 0.46 pounds, with screws

Done: Starter relay, cables, isolator rubber, other relays, etc.  0.88 pounds.

Done: Boil off bottle and connector hose: 0.52 pounds

Done: Battery tray, boil off bottle fender plastic, ECM rubber isolator: 0.44 pounds

Done: Breather reduction of starter port.  0.13 pounds gross, about 0.12 pounds net

Done: Throttle body harness holder.  0.06 pounds

Total 13.44 pounds.   260 - 13.44 = 246.56 pounds, dry.

 

In progress.

- speedo drive 0.55 pounds, 0.45 pounds net

- radiator louvres, 0.3 pounds each, 0.6 pounds total

- regulator mount, 0.13 pounds

- kick stand 1.16 pounds, plus lighter left footpeg mount

Total: 2.36 pounds

246.56 - 2.36 = 244.20 pounds

Next up:

- starter clutch and gear, hoping for 1.5 pounds, lighter flywheel as well

- muffler, hoping for 2.5 pounds

- Titanium shock spring, hoping for 1.25 pounds

- Aluminum rear sprocket, nearly 2 pounds

- newer YZ swingarm 2.5 pounds

Total = 9.75 pounds.

244.20 - 9.75 = 234.45

 

This is without handguards, rad guards and rad braces.

 

There are other weight reduction possibilities too.    I bet one could get a WR450 down to 230 pounds dry, a loss of 30 pounds.

 

By dry, I mean with an empty fuel tank but otherwise ready to ride.

 

I'll write this up in detail in a thread if there is interest.  I took pictures of everything as I did it.

 

You've done your home work, and work to boot. Why did you go this route and not just start from the Yz platform?

Read the 1st page but not sure what you are trying to point out?

 

 

You've done your home work, and work to boot. Why did you go this route and not just start from the Yz platform?

 

Because its more work to build a YZ into a great trail bike than it is to mod the WR.

 

- the YZ needs major suspension tuning.   The stock WR suspension is way closer to a good trail suspension than a YZ is.  

- the YZ fuel tank is too small.  It needs replacing.

- the YZ engine needs major detuning.   The WR tune is way closer to a good (excellent) trail bike power plant than the YZ is.

- the YZ needs a wide ratio transmission.   One can put the WR gearset in the YZ transmission, at least on the 250F you can.   Not sure about the new YZ450Fs.  Must split the cases to do this.  Expensive.  Not something I want to do.

- the YZ needs a skid plate

- the YZ 450 frame is bigger.   I wanted more power than a big bore kitted YZ250F.  That meant I needed a 450.    The YZ450F frame is larger frame than the YZ250F.   The 2012 WR450F uses the YZ250F frame, which is smaller and more nimble.

- the WR 450 engine is extremely durable for a dirt bike and has relatively long service intervals.   Not sure about the YZ450F, but I doubt the YZ250F is not as durable, especially with a big bore kit. 

- the WR450 has larger radiators

- the WR450 has EFI.   The YZ250F doesn't.   After riding my WR450F in a variety of conditions, I would not be without EFI.

 

 

As far as I am concerned the WR450 is an excellent starting platform to build an all out woods racer from.   Its relatively easy to lighten.  Its very reliable.   It has a nimble frame.   Lots of aftermarket parts.  Its inexpensive and plentiful to buy.  Its easy to upgrade.

 

Where else does one find a great 450 engine shoehorned into a 250 motocross frame with motocross suspension tuned for trail riding ?  The only thing this platform is missing that is hard to upgrade is a 6 speed transmission.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

Do you guys all carry helmet lights when you pull your headlights off? Do you carry spare gas in a backpack?

From my bike prep notes.

 

Done: Starter: 1.63 lbs

Done: Starter drive gears: 1.05 lbs

Done: Tank mount bracket: 0.39 pounds with the 4 bolts <-- needs reinforcement though

Done: Starter switch and harness to right side rad mount 0.11 lbs

Done: Boil off vent hose, tank to under bike, 0.15 lbs

Done: Head light assembly 1.45 pounds

Done: Reflectors: 0.72 pounds

Done: Trip computer assembly: 0.88 pounds

Done: Battery: 4.60 pounds

Done: Snorkel: 0.46 pounds, with screws

Done: Starter relay, cables, isolator rubber, other relays, etc.  0.88 pounds.

Done: Boil off bottle and connector hose: 0.52 pounds

Done: Battery tray, boil off bottle fender plastic, ECM rubber isolator: 0.44 pounds

Done: Breather reduction of starter port.  0.13 pounds gross, about 0.12 pounds net

Done: Throttle body harness holder.  0.06 pounds

Total 13.44 pounds.   260 - 13.44 = 246.56 pounds, dry.

 

In progress.

- speedo drive 0.55 pounds, 0.45 pounds net

- radiator louvres, 0.3 pounds each, 0.6 pounds total

- regulator mount, 0.13 pounds

- kick stand 1.16 pounds, plus lighter left footpeg mount

Total: 2.36 pounds

246.56 - 2.36 = 244.20 pounds

Next up:

- starter clutch and gear, hoping for 1.5 pounds, lighter flywheel as well

- muffler, hoping for 2.5 pounds

- Titanium shock spring, hoping for 1.25 pounds

- Aluminum rear sprocket, nearly 2 pounds

- newer YZ swingarm 2.5 pounds

Total = 9.75 pounds.

244.20 - 9.75 = 234.45

 

This is without handguards, rad guards and rad braces.

 

There are other weight reduction possibilities too.    I bet one could get a WR450 down to 230 pounds dry, a loss of 30 pounds.

 

By dry, I mean with an empty fuel tank but otherwise ready to ride.

 

I'll write this up in detail in a thread if there is interest.  I took pictures of everything as I did it.

Mate would love to read your write up in a separate thread if you can be bothered. I think a lot of other readers would also be interested as weight appears to be the only issue with this bike for hardcore riders. If you could also provide part details of any mods / additions you made that would be handy

Mate would love to read your write up in a separate thread if you can be bothered. I think a lot of other readers would also be interested as weight appears to be the only issue with this bike for hardcore riders. If you could also provide part details of any mods / additions you made that would be handy

 

Unless you are in a hurry, I'll wait to write it up until the weather turns ugly in the northern hemisphere, ie late fall.  I want to get as much riding in before then as possible.

Do you guys all carry helmet lights when you pull your headlights off? Do you carry spare gas in a backpack?

 

I do carry a headlamp just in case, but generally we are off the trails before dark.  Well before dark.   We are usually home for dinner.

 

Spare gas ?   My rides aren't long enough to consume 2 gallons.    For longer rides I might carry some backup fuel in an MSR camp stove fuel bottle.    I actually did 2 rides on a single tank, but I think I was running on fumes.    I haven't hooked an LED up to the low fuel indicator circuit yet.

 

I'll probably add a very light LED light to my bike in the near future.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

Unless you are in a hurry, I'll wait to write it up until the weather turns ugly in the northern hemisphere, ie late fall.  I want to get as much riding in before then as possible.

 

no problem mate, will keep an eye out for it

Yeah, I'd like to read all about that too, you know you can drill out the engine brackets & side stand, if you haven't ditched it already, & I also want a six speed, C'mon YAMAHA, release the beast ROOSTA out.

Yeah, I'd like to read all about that too, you know you can drill out the engine brackets & side stand, if you haven't ditched it already, & I also want a six speed, C'mon YAMAHA, release the beast ROOSTA out.

 

Tell me more about drilling out the engine brackets.    You mean cutting holes in them ?    They are aluminum so I am not sure how much weight that would actually save.   Plus I'd hate to have one break, plus the engine is probably a stressed member in the frame.

 

I haven't decided on the side stand yet.  Many of my friends ride without one.   As my list shows, I plan to remove it.   One could lighten it significantly or replace it with a much lighter model.  The stand, spring and clip weight 1.16 pounds.    Replacing the left foot peg would increase the weight savings even more.

If you de-wr, and remap it, then put a FMF system on it. There great bikes but it will take a bit to be on a KTM's level.

If you de-wr, and remap it, then put a FMF system on it. There great bikes but it will take a bit to be on a KTM's level.

At what level are you referring too........ weight, performance or reliability?

At what level are you referring too........ weight, performance or reliability?

Performance, the wr comes very corked up for emissions and shit... KTM's and the wr are both extremely reliable...

Hey mid life, I haven't drilled mine either, I saw it in an American mag before the 2012 model came out, they were on a quest like yourself to reduce weight, they drilled 3, 3/4 inch holes in each of the brackets, but they were 07-11 wrf's & they drilled holes in the side stand up its entire length & the stand base & also the foot peg bracket & they also drilled the front engine mounts, I can't remember which magazine it was, it's really bugging me, hope this helps, ROOSTA out.

Performance, the wr comes very corked up for emissions and shit... KTM's and the wr are both extremely reliable...

 

That is a lie. 

 

KTM's are not reliable, unless you get a 'good' one. 

Total hoax on the MC community.

Performance, the wr comes very corked up for emissions and shit... KTM's and the wr are both extremely reliable...

 

The reason WR's come so chocked up is do to the fact that Yamaha needs to have a fleet wide carbon foot print. This is an average of all the EPA stuff that Yamaha makes (not just motorcycles). If this was not a GREEN sticker bike it would be uncorked. But the WR was designed to be user configured for competition at a very low cost (it was made to be uncorked). For as little as $99.00 A WR can put a KTM in the weeds depending on riding conditions. And at $99.00 + $7,000 = $7,099 or less you can't beat it. Mine was $6599 + $310 (fmf) + $89 (ECU) + $220 (programer) = $7218. If you don't own a new WR thats setup right you don't know. Its fast and handles better than all pre 2012 WR's. 

Edited by vlxjim

FYI, the new YZ swingarm and linkage is only 1 pound lighter than the WR setup.  Not the 2+ pounds that my post above says.

 

My source on that bit of info was this article.  http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hi-torque/mxa_201209_dealer/index.php?startid=75#/70  Its wrong.

 

The other thing that is wrong is that you have to buy the YZ triple clamps to make a number plate work.   You don't.

 

I'll write this stuff up when I get a chance.    I just didn't want to mislead anyone in the mean time.

The bikes in these videos had lightened kickstands.

 

FYI, the stock kickstand spring and retainer clip weigh 0.24 pounds.  I kid you not !   The KTM equivalent weigh almost nothing.   I bought the KTM parts, but have not installed them yet.

FYI, the new YZ swingarm and linkage is only 1 pound lighter than the WR setup.  Not the 2+ pounds that my post above says.

 

My source on that bit of info was this article.  http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hi-torque/mxa_201209_dealer/index.php?startid=75#/70  Its wrong.

 

The other thing that is wrong is that you have to buy the YZ triple clamps to make a number plate work.   You don't.

 

I'll write this stuff up when I get a chance.    I just didn't want to mislead anyone in the mean time.

 

This would be a good write up and good info. I don't even think some of the factory teams have gone to this extent in lightening up their bikes. I for one have always gone the way of making the mx'r into an offroad bike never the other way around. But, like you said the WR in the 250 frame is a good platform for woods/endure style racing. Not sure if I agree that it would be cheaper vs the Yz but definitely worth finding out. Sparked my interest...

All this talk about weight weight!  I am 240lbs. I think I will work on me first.

Not sure if I agree that it would be cheaper vs the Yz but definitely worth finding out.

 

Its easier and cheaper to lighten a WR than it is to detune a YZ, redo the suspension and put the WR gearset into the YZ case. 

 

The first 14 pounds of weight removal on a WR is essentially free.  Tuning the engine is as easy as using the GYTR tuner, exhaust and maybe YFZR cams.   And the WR suspension is way, way closer to being trail perfect than the YZ suspension is.

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