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carburetor install


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keep the shock off. put top subframe bolt on then swing down the subframe and slip it on the carb. loosly thread in bottom left subframe bolt, tighten up the boot on the carb. At this point you should be able to fit the shock in from the right side. Install right subframe bolt. then tighten everything up.

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Normally when I do this I leave the boot attached to the airbox and swing it out of the way with the subframe.  When reinstalling you just have to squeeze the boot around the shock and it usually slips onto the carb with not much fuss.

 

Here is a pic with the subframe rotated out of the way and the boot still installed on the airbox.

 

2013-04-13143629.jpg

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Normally when I do this I leave the boot attached to the airbox and swing it out of the way with the subframe. When reinstalling you just have to squeeze the boot around the shock and it usually slips onto the carb with not much fuss.

Here is a pic with the subframe rotated out of the way and the boot still installed on the airbox.

Posted Image

I done same thing by tilting subframe up. Dont have to mess with wiring and the battery. I had alot of trouble getting it on with the shock there. It would slightly bend the clamp when squeezing it through and i couldnt get my hands in to fix. I found that keeping the shock out was the way to do it.

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I find it easiest (on an aluminum YZ450) to unbolt the air box from the sub frame, slide the sub back off the box, then unclamp the air box from the carb.  On reassembly, I slip the air box on the carb first and clamp it, then slip the sub frame back on.  The tail lamp harness may complicate the matter on a WR by limiting the amount the sub can move rearward without disconnecting it.

 

If the boot still gives you fits using the swing-on-the-top-bolt method, try leaving the carb free of the head until after you get it clamped into the boot (leave the lower sub frame bolts out during this), then plug it into the mounting sleeve on the head.

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