Magura clutch for the 2012 WR450F

The stock cable set-up is a 2 finger clutch, I've got no issues riding with 2 fingers all day long....the whole idea behind going Magura was to get a 1 finger clutch.  Sounds like it's no better than the stock in this regard....bummer.

I'm a pretty strong guy with big hands and I don't find the stock clutch to be a comfortable 2 finger clutch. Yes, I can 2 finger it, but its not something that gives me a lot of clutch control nor can I do it all day long.

I rode my bike again today and the Magura works pretty well, especially now that I adjusted it.

The jury is still out on this thing, but the jury is starting to like it.

I'm getting 0.417" of travel at the slave cylinder.

I've now got it adjusted so that the clutch arm can move backwards about 1mm before the slave cylinder is fully extended. There was a bit more "back travel" than that on my last ride. I'm adjusting the slave cylinder position by stacking washers between it and the mount.

How much travel is there from the "hard point" to the end of the pull with the cable clutch ?

 

That might be a tad too much free play? IIRC Peter told me around 1/8" is what you want. If you're closer to 1/2" you might need a shim between the slave and bracket.

 

Just to be sure we're on this same page, this is measured by grabbing the clutch arm with your fingers and pulling it back (away from the motor). It should move about 1/8".

The stock cable set-up is a 2 finger clutch, I've got no issues riding with 2 fingers all day long....the whole idea behind going Magura was to get a 1 finger clutch.  Sounds like it's no better than the stock in this regard....bummer.

 

You must have a lot stronger hands than me, as I have fairly small hands. I *could* 2-finger it stock, but not for long before wearing myself out and getting arm pump/cramps. Now I can do it all day long. It's doable with one finger, but I use two. Someone with larger/stronger hands than me could probably 1-finger it all day long. I still consider stock KTM clutches to be the gold standard, and it's not quite there, but close. KTMs are a true effortless 1-finger pull all day long, even for someone with small hands like me.

 

Also with the original 10.5 master my Magura wasn't that much lighter than stock. The feel and engagement was better, but pull at the lever was nearly the same. Now in my case, part of that was the fact that the cable was partially binding against the bracket. But with that sorted out and the 9.5 master, it's a BIG improvement over stock, MUCH lighter pull, at least the claimed 25-30% if not closer to 50%.

 

I'm still really happy with it and it's still going strong with a bunch more rides on it. It's now something I don't really even think about anymore, which in a way is probably the best compliment I could give it.

That might be a tad too much free play? IIRC Peter told me around 1/8" is what you want. If you're closer to 1/2" you might need a shim between the slave and bracket.

Just to be clear, 0.417" is the amount of travel the slave cylinder makes from being fully extended to being pulled in. A previous poster asked for this number.

 

Just to be sure we're on this same page, this is measured by grabbing the clutch arm with your fingers and pulling it back (away from the motor). It should move about 1/8".

Mine moves back a bit less than that.

I did a 20 mile ride with it yesterday and its pretty good.

A forewarning to people with small hands... the slave needs all stroke a 9.5mm master can give in order to move the clutch arm enough. If you adjust the Magura lever so that it doesn't touch the grip when you pull it in, its a long way from the grip when its out. Not a problem for my hands, but other people who rode my bike commented on it.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

Any installation pictures and/or write up on this? I am looking for a true 1-finger pull all day long if such a thing can exist for this bike.

 

I thought the stock clutch was a 2-finger all day pull, no problem. I drilled a new hole in the bottom of the lever though, closer to the pivot point and it made the pull easier. I did this to two different levers changing the leverage point by 2mm on one and 5mm on the other. With the 5mm change I can 1-finger it now, but I can't do it all day long and don't have as much control as I would like. I may modify another lever with a hole even closer to the pivot point and see how that works.

 

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Any installation pictures and/or write up on this? I am looking for a true 1-finger pull all day long if such a thing can exist for this bike.

 

I thought the stock clutch was a 2-finger all day pull, no problem. I drilled a new hole in the bottom of the lever though, closer to the pivot point and it made the pull easier. I did this to two different levers changing the leverage point by 2mm on one and 5mm on the other. With the 5mm change I can 1-finger it now, but I can't do it all day long and don't have as much control as I would like. I may modify another lever with a hole even closer to the pivot point and see how that works.

 

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You need to cut the cable slot in the lever down so that the cable pulls directly from the cable hole.  Otherwise you are not changing the leverage ratio.  Your leverage ratio is from the point the cable leaves the lever, to the pivot point. 

Edited by Corkster

You might also wear the cable out prematurely if it has to bend around the remaining aluminum.

You need to cut the cable slot in the lever down so that the cable pulls directly from the cable hole.  Otherwise you are not changing the leverage ratio.  Your leverage ratio is from the point the cable leaves the lever, to the pivot point.

Not only that, but it will bend the cable itself and it will fail prematurely. Cables are designed to be pulled, not bent sharply.

Other than that, its a very neat mod.

Does the clutch still fully disengage when the lever with the modified geometry is pulled in ? Could you measure how much travel you get at the end of the clutch cable with the stock lever and each of the modified ones ?

Any installation pictures and/or write up on this? I am looking for a true 1-finger pull all day long if such a thing can exist for this bike.

 

I thought the stock clutch was a 2-finger all day pull, no problem. I drilled a new hole in the bottom of the lever though, closer to the pivot point and it made the pull easier. I did this to two different levers changing the leverage point by 2mm on one and 5mm on the other. With the 5mm change I can 1-finger it now, but I can't do it all day long and don't have as much control as I would like. I may modify another lever with a hole even closer to the pivot point and see how that works.

 

There are aftermarket perch/lever combos that do pretty much what you did, increase the mechanical leverage. I thought about trying those, but ended up going the Magura route instead.

 

My bike was definitely not two-finger all day long when stock, at least not for me. More like two fingers for a short time then all four until arm pump set in then just miserable. Now it is two-finger all day long, and for someone with bigger/stronger hands than me probably one finger. It's still not like say a KTM that is truly one-finger all day long. But it is a HUGE improvement over stock, and better feel with no fade to boot.

Edited by GP1K

There are aftermarket perch/lever combos that do pretty much what you did, increase the mechanical leverage. I thought about trying those, but ended up going the Magura route instead.

 

My bike was definitely not two-finger all day long when stock, at least not for me. More like two fingers for a short time then all four until arm pump set in then just miserable. Now it is two-finger all day long, and for someone with bigger/stronger hands than me probably one finger. It's still not like say a KTM that is truly one-finger all day long. But it is a HUGE improvement over stock, and better feel with no fade to boot.

 

This is good to hear. So maybe the Magura is the way to go. You are definitely right in that the KTM clutch is the best...hands down. Will have to give it some more thought.

You need to cut the cable slot in the lever down so that the cable pulls directly from the cable hole.  Otherwise you are not changing the leverage ratio.  Your leverage ratio is from the point the cable leaves the lever, to the pivot point. 

 

I thought about cutting the slot more, but I tried it before doing that and there is definitely a difference in the pull so I didn't bother.

 

You might also wear the cable out prematurely if it has to bend around the remaining aluminum.

 

Yes, I think it will wear the cable faster than normal. I am keeping an eye on it and once/if I start to see any wear I will either replace the cable or go hydro.

 

Not only that, but it will bend the cable itself and it will fail prematurely. Cables are designed to be pulled, not bent sharply.

Other than that, its a very neat mod.

Does the clutch still fully disengage when the lever with the modified geometry is pulled in ? Could you measure how much travel you get at the end of the clutch cable with the stock lever and each of the modified ones ?

 

The clutch does still fully disengage, but I had to adjust it a bit. I will take some measurements later today and post them up.

 

There are aftermarket perch/lever combos that do pretty much what you did, increase the mechanical leverage.

 

Yes, but they don't have a spot for the neutral safety switch in them and that is not something I want to loose.

Hey Guys, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have a question for you all.

I got me a magura clutch kit for the wr (2012) and it's been running great. The other day I was out in the bush and I noticed the clutch started to stick on (disengaged). Managed to limp it home and found the problem. 

Turns out the point at which the arm starts putting pressure on the clutch plates is to far out to the side in relation to where the ram is pulling that it's binding up and not releasing. Has anyone else had thisissue? 

Is anyone running a bracket that allows the slave to pivot to keep pointing in the right direction? It seams like that would solve my issue. 

Cheers for any help

 

Terrible sketch attached below to try explain it better

 

wr450_2012_clutch_problem.png

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