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Tree__man

Wiring issues with front brake to the brake light (diagram included)

9 posts in this topic

Hey Guys

I was having a nightmare with getting my front brake to light up the brake light through the current loom. So I have attempted to run new wires straight from the front switch and link it in with the rear brake switch which works fine. Both the brakes are hydraulic switch types and the back brake would light up the brake light fine. So I run the wires back from the front one and attached them at the same points the back ones attach. (Kinda shown in the picture).

Wiringnightmare.jpg

The back brake still lights it up fine but the front one with the new wires only does it very intermittently and sometimes wont do it at all. The problems I thought it may be so far is that the

  • switch isnt working properly and I would have to re-bleed the front brakes?
  • The type of wire I used may be to weak or have to much resistance? (Dunno what kinda wire it is, old stuff laying round the garage, kinda thin)
  • The bike isnt generating enough power/electricity? Probly not as the back one still works fine?
  • Could be due to the weak joining it did where the new front wire meet the back wires (I just stripped it down to the wire and did some wrapping and twisting and then wrapped up in electrical tape

Any help or advise on what to do to to suss this problem out would be hugely appreciated as the electrical side isnt my stong point. Excuse my ghetto paint diagram aswell.

Cheers!!!

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... the weak joining it did where the new front wire meet the back wires (I just stripped it down to the wire and did some wrapping and twisting and then wrapped up in electrical tape

That.

First, disconnect it at the joint and verify the operation of the switch with a test light. Then connect it correctly by soldering, a crimp connector, or a "piggy-back", or wire tap connector.

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The back brake still lights it up fine but the front one with the new wires only does it very intermittently and sometimes wont do it at all. The problems I thought it may be so far is that the

•switch isnt working properly and I would have to re-bleed the front brakes?

Assuming that your brakes are not soft, there should be no need to bleed unless replacing the switch.

•The type of wire I used may be to weak or have to much resistance? (Dunno what kinda wire it is, old stuff laying round the garage, kinda thin)

It must be the same spec as the original wiring or thicker.

•The bike isnt generating enough power/electricity? Probly not as the back one still works fine?

Definitely could be as you did not specify which bike or year model etc..

•Could be due to the weak joining it did where the new front wire meet the back wires (I just stripped it down to the wire and did some wrapping and twisting and then wrapped up in electrical tape

If it is touching a ground wire, frame or not connected properly, yes (not likely though).

We will need more info of what year model etc...

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04 WR450F. The australian import one that comes with all the road gear. Im running a Trailtech vapor straight off the battery. Everything else is stock, if that helps at all?

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Cheers for the help.

I rode it to work today and found that it works good when I rev the shit out of it, but only some times or not at all with idle revs. The wire I used is quite small so I might run a thicker wire through and make sure that all my connections are solid and soldered properly

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The horn, turn signals, and brake lights can all be run off switched power from the battery. You don't need to run it from the stator- the draw is very low and also not constant ( not ALWAYS on..)

LED lights do not light up unless they get the power they need. They do not light up *dim*.

I am thinking- the gauge wire you have would not cause the issue unless it was VERY thin, like below 20 gauge, but if it did cause a voltage drop you would also notice very hot wires.

I'd check your connections and be sure to run it off the battery to make sure the stator's low output at idle isn't the cause..

Good luck!

Dustin

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