I have some data on Yamalube 4-R

Flash point either 394 or 464 (trying to find out which protocol they use that is closest to the D-92 test everyone else lists in their flash point tech data; Zinc <2%; viscosity index can't find yet; made by Citgo.

If anyone's interested I have a word document with a table comparing all the different properties of a bunch of different oils people on the board claim to use.

I was able to make a decision whether or not spending $6-$8 a quart was worth it or not when I did the research and typed out a comparision table.

So let's have it! What's the skinny? I have no idea what all the technical mumbo jumbo is so you'll have to give it to me in laymens terms :)

I'm still waiting on more info from citgo or Yamaha on a couple of more specs i.e. the viscosity index rating & a true value for the flash point that can be compared apples to apples with everyone else's reportable data. Depending on which value citgo/yamaha reports on their flash point is "right" either that particular specification is real good or well below the average.

One can look at the testimonials on this board and see that there’s a lot of folks running everything under the sun from oils priced at less than 1.50 a quart, to those running “car” oils such as Mobil 1 15-50, and those running oils with the manufacturers name printed on them; all with seemingly good results.

What I found really interesting was on Mobil 1’s website one of the main justifications they use to get you to buy the expensive “motorcycle” variant was that motorcycles needed more zinc/phosphorus. When I researched their motorcycle oils vs the tri-synthetic car oils the reported zinc % was identical for both, @ 1.08%. Also, they lead you to believe that all of the tri-synthetics contain friction modifiers, they didn’t make a distinction for the 15-50, even though most of us realize it’s not an “energy conserving” oil.

Make up your own mind after you compare the specs for the oil you use (if it's not 4-R) to Yamalube 4-R. If you want that Word document I banged out comparing some oil’s specs I’d be glad to send it to you.

I've made my decision based on all the articles I could scrounge up on line and data I looked at from the various manufacturers. Personally, I think the 4-R is a good product but based on the brain cells I’ve wasted looking into this, cannot justify paying anywhere from 5.99 to 7.99 a quart for it. Also, it’s my humble but non-expert opinion that 99% of us dump our oil way before whatever brand of oil that’s in the crankcase “needs” it. Hey, this it’s a good thing to err on the side of caution with our expensive babies, but when you’re doing that is the expense of buying a Golden Spectro, Motul, Mobil MX4T, or Yamalube 4-R really justifiable?

Originally posted by RichB:

when you're doing that is the expense of buying a Golden Spectro, Motul, Mobil MX4T, or Yamalube 4-R really justifiable?

I'm certainly no scientist but I can say this from experience. I have run the Yamalube 20w-40 since I got my first YZ-F at the end of 97. I have never had an oil related failure (or any other failure). You are correct, I cannot justify spending 66% more per quart for oil that I change every two hours of riding time.

Ernie

I run the semi-sythetic Yamalube in my 01 426 and have had no problems yet. IMHO, Yamaha allows the oil to get contaminated in an effort to cause wear and generate parts/repair revenue. It's merely an assumption based on how KTM and Honda choose to lube their machines. I haven't heard of any failures from clutch contamination debris in the oil, nevertheless, it's there and drives me batty.

Richb --

Maybe you already said this and I'm just not smart enough to comprehend....

But, with all this research, what oil did you decide you will use in your bike?

Rich, could you please send the .doc to me? Or maybe copy and paste it here? I am curious about the different oils...

From what I have learned, the "motorcycle" oil is constructed of "short" molecule bases. The reason is not that the clutch dirty's the oil, but the transmissions acutally destroy or grind up the automobile oils that use "long" molecule bases that are other wise knowns as friction modifiers. The short molecule base oils apparenty tolerate the transmission better (how I dont know). This maybe several lines of Bull___, but from my research its what ive found. :)

Shawn,

I've read that somewhere along the way too. I'm not a techie so I can't tell if it's B.S. or not either, but their are plenty of non"motorcycle" oils out there that don't contain friction-modifiers i.e Mobil 1 15w-50, man heavy duty conventional motor oils, etc.

Forgot to mention that Yamalube 4-R is made by Citgo. The Honda HP products (or at least many of them) are made by Valvoline (or one of their subsidiaries).

Rich,

I too would love to see your document. Please send it to me and thanks for taking to time to help all of us out!

Bobby

Rich,

Thank you for spending your time researching this. I would like to see your document also, please send it to me. cfshop@mindspring.com

Thanks,

Charles

SO TELL US RICHB, WHAT OIL DO YOU RUN? :)

NAME FLASH POINT

(D-92 test) VIS INDEX

%

ASH % ZINC

$/

Qt

Mobil 1 15-15 473 160 1.08 3.85

Mobil MX4T 487 164 1.08

Mobil V-Twin 518 150 1.08

Mobil Delvac 1300 419 150 1.5 2.18 1.47

Rotella 15w-40 415 145 1.35 2-3 1.

Golden Spectro 4 20/50 365 146.1 1-5 7-8

Pennzoil Motorcycle

20w/50 475 122 <1.5 ?

Pennzoil long life 15W-40 450 145 <1.35 <2 1.

Yamalube 4-R 464 or 394 ? <2

Valvoline VR-1 500 152 ? 0.12?

Ok so what oil do you run Rich...you've provided some great info but not simple answer to this question. Please share...we want to know.

Thanks for the research...

J

Ok, Ok I didn't want to say what I use because the intent of the original post was just to provide some tech data on yamalube cause nobody else had asked Yamaha for it.

I use the Mobil Delvac 1300 super. I dump my oil after every couple of rides and have had no probs. Had the valve cover off last week and everthing up there looked good and clean. I have no complaints.

I can't take credit for finding Delvac for M/C use, I saw a post on this board from a long time ago where someone said they were using it. I emailed the guy and asked if he was still using it & what kind of performance he was getting from it. He was still using it, had no mechanical (top/bottom/tranny) or oil related failures. It appears that in the street/road race circles Delvac and Shell Rotella have been "secrets" for some time and this guy had used it in his street bikes for a long time.

I buy a gallon of it at Wal-Mart for $5.88.

Have fun!

I'm very new to the motorcycle world. My experience with oil is from the world of aviation. I fly a Cessna 182 that has an air cooled, high compression 4stroke engine. We takeoff and climbout at full power with little cooling from ram air, then we descend with reduced power without trying to shock cool the engine.

We have been using semi-synthetics for years now. The synthetic part doesn't break down under stress, the mineral side holds the byproducts of combustion and keeps the motor clean.

Every mechanic and overhaul shop wants you to use straight mineral oil for break-in!!!

I've got 10 hours on my bike, and after another 10-20 hours I'll probably switch to the Yamaha semi-synthetic.

'01 YZ426F Holding on for Dear Life! :)

I'm very new to the motorcycle world. My experience with oil is from the world of aviation. I fly a Cessna 182 that has an air cooled, high compression 4stroke engine. We takeoff and climbout at full power with little cooling from ram air, then we descend with reduced power without trying to shock cool the engine.

We have been using semi-synthetics for years now. The synthetic part doesn't break down under stress, the mineral side holds the byproducts of combustion and keeps the motor clean.

Every mechanic and overhaul shop wants you to use straight mineral oil for break-in!!!

I've got 10 hours on my bike, and after another 10-20 hours I'll probably switch to the Yamaha semi-synthetic.

'01 YZ426F Holding on for Dear Life! :)

Delvac and Rotella are "diesel" oils aren't they?Who or what would prompt you to use these? I can understand that they probably would have massive shear strengths to withstand detonation as required by a diesel engines but how about flow characteristics and gasoline pollution resistance? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now