Enigne bracking on a yz 426f

Hi all,

Im new to a 426 off of a 100, love the bike it's easy to ride and all, but it's geared for motocross. Problems

-the bike has minimal engine bracking in first gear, won't go slow enough to my liking. I primarily ride mountains so I rely on this heavily.

-when you brake at all while the bike is in gear it dies

-you have to give it alot of gas to go up a hill without it killing, so again im going faster than I'd like to.

SO my question to you guys is if there is anyway other than replacing sprokets (i have a smaller front one ready to put on have'nt yet found the time) to make this bike more hill friendly, carb adjust so it doesn't kill maybe. Go easy on me I have minimal knowledege in maintnence. Thanks in advance!

Edited by cbren2494

You will enjoy that one tooth smaller front sprocket. Also make sure your pilot fuel screw is adjusted properly to give u the highest idle, you can also adjust the idle slightly higher if u want. A flywheel weight or heavier flywheel will reduce low speed stalling.

You should have plenty of engine braking if it has a good top end with plenty of compression. Do a compression and leak down test and let us know what the results are.

Some of this is just the nature of the bike. When I first started riding my 426 a few years ago I had the same complaints Running a different sprocket set up will help a bit, but its not going to make a huge difference for what your trying to accomplish. I was also riding an XR100 before and rode an XR250 for a bit too. Most of it comes down to changing your riding style. There really isn't a "one fix all" for what your trying to accomplish. Don't let it discourage you though, I love my bike for woods riding, but it kicked my ass for awhile.

Here is what I did to make things a little easier-

JD Jetting kit (in my opinion its essential if you trail ride so you can ride at different altitudes/temperatures)

Sprocket set up to your liking

REKLUSE CLUTCH (amazing difference)

I just installed a Z Start Pro Rekluse clutch on my bike about 5 rides ago and it was by far the best thing I have done to this bike or any of my other bikes for woods riding. It eliminates a vast majority of your difficulties with this bike for trail/woods style riding . It does not, however, help with downhill engine braking that much. You'll find that if you want to get any compression going down hill in first gear your going to have to be moving pretty fast. Oh and if you are thinking about getting a rekluse clutch don't bother touching your stock flywheel. With the Rekulse you won't need to worry about it. The only con is that it is a bit expensive. If you install it yourself (its easy if you follow the directions) your looking at about $640 bucks.

As an owner of a YZ450 with a Rekluse clutch, I categorically disagree on the matter of the flywheel. If you're doing almost anything that marginally resembles off-road, woods, or desert racing, or even MX on loose tracks, add as much weight to the flywheel as you can get your hands on. The engine will pull smoother and harder at low RPM than it ever did, and won't loose anything on top or under acceleration, either.

First off, thanks for the help everyone.

Tonight I replaced the front sprocket it's a 13 down from a 14. there is too much slack in the chain so it needs a bigger back sprocket so gearing it down is taken care of. It's jetted for north carolina still so that wil change soon too. rekulse clutch sounds nice but outta my price range. I spent my life savings on the bike and I'm sixteen. Thanks though.

I'm interested in the weighting the flywheel, can I do it myself altough I have minimal experience? are the weights expensive to buy? what role does the weighting the flywheel play?

Thanks

Also before I bought this bike three weeks ago, I took it to a shop and did the leak down test it got under 5% overall and did outstanding that is the only reason I bought the bike, I almost got screwed in the past.

You will enjoy that one tooth smaller front sprocket. Also make sure your pilot fuel screw is adjusted properly to give u the highest idle, you can also adjust the idle slightly higher if u want. A flywheel weight or heavier flywheel will reduce low speed stalling.

You should have plenty of engine braking if it has a good top end with plenty of compression. Do a compression and leak down test and let us know what the results are.

Thank you for the tipe on the idle. I had it jetted for altitude today as well as a bigger back and smaller front sprockets. It doesn't kill thanks to the jetting and Idle adjustment, plus the gearing slows it down by default.

Thanks,

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