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big t

Is uncorking easy?

7 posts in this topic

It sounds easy enough. How do you change the needle position? Do you take the carb apart? Is it worth getting the carb manifold or just cut the stock bigger to open it up. I will just drill the exhuast tip out for now. All my riding will be between sea level and 4000 feet. Is 175 main and 68s pilot going to work good? I have never been into a carb before so I want to know what to look for when I take it apart.

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I would replace the needle but you can use the stock one. I think you need to move to the 4 clip position. As far as the intake goes you can also get away with the stock one if you cut all the extra crap out of the center. Make it as clean as posiable and you should be alright. The whole uncorking thing is not to bad you just have to take a lot of parts off the bike. Just take your time and do it right. By the way if you change the needle don't do as I did. Keep all the new parts in the bag until you remove the old seat and needle. I had everything on the bench and had a heck of a time putting it back together. The old parts looked the same as the replacment parts. :)

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You gotta do it! This bike was designed for wide open runing and it needs to breathe. The carb changes were so straight foward - I didn't have a manual, but take your time and watch the screws. I've heard that switching them to socket caps is the hot ticket instead of the phillips heads. Depends on how often you need to open it up.

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Depending on the temperatures and altitudes you'll be riding at, a 175 will likley be too rich if you plan to spend most of your time at 1,000+ ft, unless you'll be riding in 50F or colder temperatures. A 172 might be a better choice, but if I spent most of my time at ~2,000 to 3,000 ft, I'd probably consider a 170 as an even better choice when riding in 60F to 70F temperatures. The stock 65 pilot jet will work better for you at 4,000 feet in 60F to 90F temps where as the 68s may be a better choice at altitudes lower than 2,000 depending on air temperatures. If you're using the stock needle, then the 4th clip is a good choice when riding at 2,000 feet and below in temperatures of 60F to 80F. At 3,000 to 4,000 feet iun 60F to 80F temperatures, then using the 4rd clip on the needle.

Changing the needle clip position isn't too hard, but the first time when doing something like can be intimidating. After you've done it once, it will be a piece of cake to do. Cutting out the intake manifold is fine, but you can buy a the new one already made that way for $10 or something like that if you don't feel comfortable cutting it out.

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I just cut the manifold, works well. I suppose the ragged edges might induce some turbulence - whether this is good or bad, I don't know. To set the needle position requires taking the top of the carb off (easy), what is a bit trickier is getting it back on (the o-ring wants to wander). I topped this off with larger pilot and main jets, and used a hole saw to cut out the center of the baffle (per instructions elsewhere on the site - this leaves the screen in place for spark arresting). Since all was a bit loud, I added stainless-steel scrubbers to the area around the baffle. This area is behind the screen (don't add in front of the screen - blazing chunks of metal aren't good for the woods eh?)

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I just ordered a 170 main, 68s pilot, carb manifold, and the Honda shop manual. I can't wait for it to get here. :)

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