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rmxmitch

01 WR 426 Stator Problem - Floating the ground

10 posts in this topic

I realize this topic has been exhausted, but a clear write up seems impossible to find for these bikes.

I thought I did it correctly, as shown in the pictures below, but here are my results.

So, after removing the factory soldered ground wire, I soldered a new wire to that copper wire from the coil.

I heat-shrunk this connection, and routed it with the OEM wires so it would not touch the flywheel.

My issue is now, while the bike is running, I am only showing 2.3v AC between my original yellow wire, and my newly added floated ground wire.

What is even more interesting is I show 2.3v AC on my voltmeter when I only connect one probe to the yellow wire and the other is connected to nothing.

Touching the other probe to my new floated ground wire does nothing to my voltage reading.

Now I have trouble-shooted this with trail-tech's guide linked here, starting at step 1.

http://www.trailtech...rt_stators.html

According to this guide, I have a bad stator. Which is odd because my original lights worked fine on AC originally, and the bike still starts fine.

It seems I should be getting about 10 volts at idle and it should increase as I rev.

I am getting 2.3 constantly and it does not move.

Here is what I did:

This is the unmodified coil right after pulling the flywheel.

IMAG0758_zps67da3bd0.jpg

This is after I unsoldered the original ground, and added my new wire. with heatshrink.

IMAG0759_zps208d0fe9.jpg

Then finally, the wire is routed out, using jb weld to help hold the wire in place so it does not touch the flywheel.

IMAG0760_zps6a4866bd.jpg

Does anyone see something that I am missing, or where I could have gone wrong?

I have the trail tech regulator/rectifier http://www.trailtech...7004-RR150.html and am hesitant to wire it up in the current state.

I appreciate any help you may have. Thanks.

Edited by rmxmitch

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I just floated the ground on my 2000 400 and so far everything seems fine. The only different thing I can see is that you ran your new wire over the coils instead of straight down into the original wiring location.

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I failed to realize that these 'copper' coil wires are not actually bare copper.

Thus, I did not strip the insulation off of the wire before soldering.

Hopefully I can get back in there and fix it somewhat easily, I will report back if this solves my problem sometime later on this week.

Thank you very much Ricky Stator , you have gone out of your way to help.

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Well sure enough.. cleaning the magnetic coil wire did the trick.

I cannot believe I have not read about this before... I always assumed coils were wrapped in bare copper.

I suppose that would not make much sense.

Big thanks again to Mike @ RickyStator, I owe you a beer or something.

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Wow, Im glad I found this thread at random. I was unaware and full assuming the copper wire was bare copper as well. So when I unsolder the connection at the current ground at the ground tab on the stator, this solid looking copper wire will have to be stripped like any other insulated wire? seems odd. I cant wait to get in there and do this.

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You have to strip the wire with something like an exacto knife, the insulation must be scraped off. If the wire was bare you would have hundreds of turns of bare wire laying on top of itself creating one big short.

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Just like rickystator suggested... scrape the bronze wire off and you will see the copper color difference.

I then ran over the wire with a tiny piece of emery cloth to get any spots i missed.

I have several hours on this now without any issues, running a hid, turn signals, horn, and tail/brake.

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