Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
tomjoens

How often to change oil? What kind to run mobile 1 delvac, rotella, maxima, yamalube, honda oil and etc.

44 posts in this topic

How often do you need to change oil? Also what about synthetic maxima compared to rotella 15-40 convential what is your opinions?

I would like not to spend $16 an oil change with maxima but the synthetic oil gives you more power and runs smoother. I heard there is nothing wrong with running a mobile 1 delvac synthetic or rotella conventional either. PLEASE COMMMENT!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of machine are you putting this oil in? It would be helpful to know. I get the gallon containers of Maxima 15W50 full synthetic and I think its worth the money but you will find a huge gamut of opinions of what people like to run in their bikes on Thumpertalk. I like to run a full ester synthetic personally but there are many fine oils out there. I used to run Golden Spectro synthetic blend and would not hesitate to put it in one of my bikes.

Just make sure your oil is labeled as O.K. for motorcycle use-JASO MA if you run it in a bike that shares engine oil with the transmission(this is so your clutch won't slip) and JASO MB in bikes such as the Honda CRF450 which has separate oil for engine and trannny. You would then run the friction modified MB in the engine and the JASO MA in the transmission in a bike such as the CRF450.

As far as changing oil-depends on if its dino oil,synthetic blend or full synthetic with full synthetic lasting longest. Pretty safe to stay with what the manual recommends as far as hours or mileage but I change mine about every 750 miles on my dualsport and about 4- 5 major rides on my dirtbike all subject to conditions encountered. Probably too often but I have gotten a lot of miles out of the bikes and still have good compression.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:lame:

Not one of these again.

I think you need to do research before you post something like this. This topic has been beat to death. And if synthetic oil makes your bike run smoother and give you more power that is news to me.

Edited by 79yamdt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Synthetic all the way!!!! Adds a solid 20hp to the bike, and since yours is a 2012 yz450 maybe even more. How much power you'll get depends on how your carb is set-up on that bike, and what position you have your gongilator plate in.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

shell rotella club member right here. full syn, 5 gallon pales at walmart.

I think syn has its benefits. but in a bike its more how often you change it, not what you change it with

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never seen an oil-related failure in a bike that was serviced at the correct intervals. Run whatever you want.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use the recommended oil weight that is listed in your manual. Pretty simple. I like to run Vavoline 4stroke motorcycle oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I were to give a recommendation which covered all bikes, in all temperature ranges, I would say to change your oil every 2 rides, and put rotella 15W40 into it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also am a supporter of the change it early and change it often as opposed to worrying overly about what brand. I run rotella as well. If I could find a comparable priced in a gallon I would consider it but rotella for the price is hard to beat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an 11 yz450 and I run the spectro blue cap( think its the regular non synthetic) and change oil and filter once its black its a good rule if thumb. About 1-2 hrs of ride time. I probably change it way more than needed but its good piece of mind and using the regular oil it's a little cheaper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another vote for the Shell Rotella. I run the 15-40 in my XR400 (which is basically a tractor....nothing like your bike which is a high performance machine ). Just follow what your manual says and you'll be fine.

I run Chevron 10-40 non energy conserving in my FZ1 and Rotella full synth in my track bike. 30,000 miles on the FZ1 with no problems and about 10,000 race track miles on the gsxr. I picked up the XR in a trade not even knowing the maint history....all three bikes run great.

Numerous oil threads on every motorcycle forum. The bottom line: change it regularly and run whatever oil gives you piece of mind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never seen an oil-related failure in a bike that was serviced at the correct intervals. Run whatever you want.

Me either. The only thing I've seen is some clutch slippage with certain oils in certain bikes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Over 200k using Rotella T6- ZERO ISSUES, ZERO PROBLEMS

used in

Victory- variety of models

Suzuki -turbo hayabusa and regular slow busa's

Kawasaki -zx14

Triumph Rocket

Gsxr1000

Big Dog's

Yz250f's

yz450f's

suzuki intruders

honda xx's

ktm 950 smr

and a few more makes/models over the past

T6 works, until someone can PROVE to me it wont, it will go into all my bikes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sprays some WD-40 in the oil hole once a day, keeps 'er topped up and running smoove.

She purr like a kitten.

don't forget to add bath salt and sand !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run Amsoil 10w40 Motorcycle oil in my 2006. Changed every 2-3 hours.

Bike has 300+ hours with no issues and no valve adjustments. I race 450B and 35+ also some trail riding.

Edited by souliog

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was running Mobile 1 Racing 4t 10w40, but my Rekluse EXP would slip a little under heavy load. Rekluse recommended going to Rotella T 15w40. It no longer slips, but I do change the oil more often than I would with the Mobile 1. Rotella T and T6 are both JASO-MA compliant. One of the most important issues when dealing with motorcycle oil is the shear stability. Motorcycle transmissions are very hard on oil, and can shear a 40 weight into a 30 weight pretty quickly. Motorcycle specific oil is usually blended to help shear stability. Some HD Diesel injectors are also hard on oil as far as shear stability. This is why HD diesel oils can make a good alternative.

Edited by luckyguy19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run Mobil1 Racing 4T in my Rekluse Z-Start Pro equipped '06, and I have no clutch problems with it. No problems with Amsoil MCF, either. Both of these oils are JASO MA/MA2 compliant, also.

Diesel injectors are not generally lubricated by engine oil (the fuel does that), so it has nothing to do with the matter. Rotella, point of fact, was one of the weakest popular oils used in YZF's for a long time until it was upgraded. It would fall out of grade within 2 hours time in a YZ250F (by actual oil analysis) and failed the standard ASTM D-6278 viscosity shear stability test (done with diesel injectors, interestingly) miserably. The current info I have is that both Rotellas have now been improved in this regard, but the point is that just being a Diesel ("C", or Commercial grade) oil means nothing at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run Mobil1 Racing 4T in my Rekluse Z-Start Pro equipped '06, and I have no clutch problems with it. No problems with Amsoil MCF, either. Both of these oils are JASO MA/MA2 compliant, also.

Diesel injectors are not generally lubricated by engine oil (the fuel does that), so it has nothing to do with the matter. Rotella, point of fact, was one of the weakest popular oils used in YZF's for a long time until it was upgraded. It would fall out of grade within 2 hours time in a YZ250F (by actual oil analysis) and failed the standard ASTM D-6278 viscosity shear stability test (done with diesel injectors, interestingly) miserably. The current info I have is that both Rotellas have now been improved in this regard, but the point is that just being a Diesel ("C", or Commercial grade) oil means nothing at all.

Many Diesels, including the Ford 6.0L have HEUI (Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector). This uses high pressure oil, and is also what shears down the oil in these engines.

My clutch does slip with Mobile 1, and it does not with Rotella T, that is fact.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0