Floating a WR426 ground w/o modding the stator!

I am in the midst of converting an '01 WR426F to street legal and found that while floating the ground is necessary a modification to the stator is not.

I know otheres must have figured this out (it's burried in Baja tech info BajaDesigns) and it will work on other bikes as well.

The stator is grounded so you just ground one of the yellow wires on your voltage reg (I used the ground {black wire} coming from the stator going to the CDI maintaining the connect w/ the CDI {because it's located in the same place you plug the other and it's the most direct route}), the other goes to yellow, red goes to positive battery terminal and black to negative terminal. All DC items are then grounded to the battery and not the frame (frame is ac grounded but not dc) and voila, a floating grounded circuit! If anything DC is grounded to the frame the battery won't charge.

Works like a charm and best of all no modification is necessary! In fact Yamaha has even outdone themselves w/ their awesome electrical connects that easily assemble and disassemble so that snipping wires is rarely, if ever, necessary and all stock connects and switches can be retained to reverse the conversion back to stock at any time.

The stock stator is 130 watts so I've put LED's in the head and tail light (direct replacements ordered online at no additional expense over conventional bulbs) and am using LED t/s's for a total wattage less than the original headlight bulb. Theoretically, I still have a 100 watts of extra power and my lights are super bright!

Cheers!

Awesome news. I am in the process of doing this after many years of blowing it off. Need my bike to be as legal as poss this year. Im piecing my kit together and only need a few more things. You know where can I get a battery / regulator combo?

Here is the Regulator and Battery that I used. The regulator is for scooters, go karts etc I can post the configuration if necessary. The battery I fixed to the top underside of the rear fender w/ double sided tape and safety wire (for safety). Cheers! and good luck!

Awesome job UpCycler. Ordering those items today. I will gladly take any config tips, diagrams, etc! Feel free to email or pm me. Hey while your at it, do you have a link for some rubber mounted LED t/s'?

Edited by Wayneo426F

Again I have to say, great post. Im 90% ready with all parts, etc. Bought the SLA battery, rectifier, bar switch. About to get this electrical job started. A few final questions before I get going.

1) Do I need a WAGO box to connect everything under the seat and to the battery?

2) Will I need a relay for the LED t/s's? Or will they work at full strength and flash properly?

Thanks again, this post has really helped me in a HUGE way.

Im pretty sure I saw his bike on local CL a few weeks ago, didnt stay up there long. I cant help with the WAGO box but I can confirm you do need a LED blinker relay. So far im running LED head/tailights and rear turn signals, they work great but still blink chaotically at low RPM.

Hey upcycler, can you show a pic of the wire you grounded? I just got a 99 wr400 that the previous owner installed a baja designs dc kit on. I'm assuming he didn't do the stator mod since the battery does super fast if I try to use an h4 55w bulb.

So I really like this idea but the instructions are extremely unclear. Does anyone have a link to a write up or some pictures?

So this is what I did... We shall see soon if it charges or not!

IMG_20150523_144731445.jpg

Well it could be because my battery got too low and won't charge but what I did doesn't seem to work. Help!

Hey Guys,

Has anyone else tired this successsfully?

I just got a WR450F (06) a couple days ago...

Im thinking i have a big issue with my electricals, when i put my headlight on the bike nearly dies after riding it a bit( and loses all power) im thinking the batery drains and the bike just doesnt have electrical power to run properly...

 

Or should i just look at the normal stator mod?

WillieV, my WR had lighting converted to DC without changing the charging system so it would drain the battery and then die like yours. High RPM cut out first. Turning off the lighting makes it run fine. 

 

I bought the R/R and a gasket but haven't gotten around to doing the mod yet, this would make it easier...

 

edit: looking at the diagram I don't think this can be done to the bikes that have a magic button as I believe they have 3 wires off the stator.

Edited by toten

Thanks toten,

Ok so will do the normal stator mod, i hope i dont mess up as id hate to have to send the stator to the US from Zambia coz i made a small mistake!!! Thanks for the advice!!

 

Willie

Here's my take on this mod. If anyone's done this same thing before & had success (or failure), then please chime in!

Once confirmed, I'll change the should-do to will-do. I've been running the setup in Fig 2, and have done part of Fig 3 where I've removed the stock AC Reg, and wired up the Reg/Rect & have DC current flowing out of it with no load (~13.8v @ idle, and ~17.8v @ high revs). I haven't connected the DC wiring harness and battery yet, but the bike seems to run just fine.

I've installed the Tusk dual sport kit on my WR426 & WR400. Same wiring on both, so this should work for both.

Fig 1: Original Wiring Diagram

Fig 1.png

 

Fig 2: This system works fine, but does not charge the battery. It'll last almost 5 days with minimal turn signal use & no horn use.
>Added the Tusk wiring harness w/ battery, horn, tail, turn, brake lights. All isolated on their own DC Circuit with an on/off switch.
>Replaced the stock headlight on/off switch with the Tusk Off/Low/High switch on the stock AC circuit (this is how it's designed to work & gives you hi/low beam).

Fig 2.png

 

Fig 3 (proposed): >Disconnect the stock AC regulator, and wire the Yellow & Black wires to the Rectifier/Regulator's 2 yellow wires.
                         >Tie the R/R's Red & Black wires in to the Tusk Battery's Red & Black wires.
                         >Move the Tusk headlight switch over to the DC wiring (& replace with LED headlight...optional, but optimal).
The metal casing on the Rectifier/Regulator must be isolated from the frame (AC) ground, and none of the DC components can be grounded to the frame. This *should* provide a DC/charging system.

Fig 3.png

Edited by exe
reorg & clarification

I appologize if I am going off the intended topic but I have some questions that most of you can probably answer. 

 

I bought a 2007 WR450 recently that already had a street legal kit installed. I have done a lot of research and I cannot figure out what was done. I'm not sure what kit was installed (it looks pieced together) so I don't know what the status of the electrical system is. I have no charging issues but I want to upgrade my headlight. 

How can I tell if the system had the ground wire floated? I've posted pictures of the stator wires and R/R if that helps.

I want to generate enough power to run lights without then dimming (looking at LED headlights). I also just upgraded the wiring and reg/rec on my FZ1 and noticed an improvent in power and smoother revs. I would like to upgrade the WR as well.

What upgrades do I need, if any, to ensure I have more than adequate electrical power?

Also, any recommendations on upgrading the stock bulb to a brighter bulb?

If this is an inappropriate place to post this I can start a new thread. Many thanks!

 

20170328_204436.jpg

20170328_204402.jpg

3 hours ago, Nixinus said:

I appologize if I am going off the intended topic but I have some questions that most of you can probably answer. 

 

I bought a 2007 WR450 recently that already had a street legal kit installed. I have done a lot of research and I cannot figure out what was done. I'm not sure what kit was installed (it looks pieced together) so I don't know what the status of the electrical system is. I have no charging issues but I want to upgrade my headlight. 

How can I tell if the system had the ground wire floated? I've posted pictures of the stator wires and R/R if that helps.

I want to generate enough power to run lights without then dimming (looking at LED headlights). I also just upgraded the wiring and reg/rec on my FZ1 and noticed an improvent in power and smoother revs. I would like to upgrade the WR as well.

What upgrades do I need, if any, to ensure I have more than adequate electrical power?

Also, any recommendations on upgrading the stock bulb to a brighter bulb?

If this is an inappropriate place to post this I can start a new thread. Many thanks!

 

 

 

Looks unmolested to me...   At least as far as the regulator and stator goes.   Looks like the original

regulator Yamaha put on it.  

 

If you want good power and still have it charge the battery you should look at the aftermarket

stator/regulator kits.    Or, on a budget you can do the stator mods and change the regulator.

Either way gives you the maximum power the WR stator can deliver, 100-120 watts.

 

LED lights use less power than normal bulbs but some don't like to run on AC which is what the

headlight power is on a unmodified WR.  

 

7 hours ago, DeepPurplishBlue said:

 

Looks unmolested to me...   At least as far as the regulator and stator goes.   Looks like the original

regulator Yamaha put on it.  

 

If you want good power and still have it charge the battery you should look at the aftermarket

stator/regulator kits.    Or, on a budget you can do the stator mods and change the regulator.

Either way gives you the maximum power the WR stator can deliver, 100-120 watts.

 

LED lights use less power than normal bulbs but some don't like to run on AC which is what the

headlight power is on a unmodified WR.  

 

Thanks!

Could the previous owner have converted the system to DC with stock regulator? If not, am I going to run in to problems with the lights and signals? I figure it comes with a headlight and taillight so it can't be that big of a strain to add turn signals. 

5 hours ago, Nixinus said:

Thanks!

Could the previous owner have converted the system to DC with stock regulator? If not, am I going to run in to problems with the lights and signals? I figure it comes with a headlight and taillight so it can't be that big of a strain to add turn signals. 

 

Not possible for it to be DC with the stock regulator.

The problems you will run into with the stock setup is the light circuit is AC, and at idle you will not have much power available.   The lights will be dim and your turn signals will blink slowly or not at all.  

Well, my idea worked!

I went from a battery @ ~10v to a fully charged one with the mods I posted above.

I'll be sure to post if any long term effects, but 2 commuting days under my belt and everything's grand.

 

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