2010 YZ450F mushy front brakes

Yamaha offers only one pad set for the front, 5XC-W0045-00-00, which covers YZ450's from '08 onward. Not sure how you get them to provide a choice between compounds.

The pads, of course are not manufactured by either Honda or Yamaha, but are sourced from Aisin or their sub-vendors.

Anybody know what year Honda front brake pads fit a 2010 YZ450F? These are thinner than the older YZ's

I've put 2006 CRF450 pads in my 08 caliper, which should be the same as your 2010.

Yamaha offers only one pad set for the front, 5XC-W0045-00-00, which covers YZ450's from '08 onward. Not sure how you get them to provide a choice between compounds.

The pads, of course are not manufactured by either Honda or Yamaha, but are sourced from Aisin or their sub-vendors.

When I was a Yamaha mech I X referenced them and sized them with other Yamaha options = compound choice.

Came in handy when I needed new pads for my GG EC300 as well , I run genuine Yamaha pads in that as well.

Works for me

...and what application were the blue dot pads listed for?

...and what application were the blue dot pads listed for?

I do not work at a Yamaha dealership any longer but it worked out from memory something like this:

At a certain year the front current YZ spec changed from blue dot to yellow dot - the patterns the same, compound changed. Earlier model pattern - match pattern and check pads for blue or yellow dot.

Rears , Late YZ yellow dot , WR blue dot - same pattern, different compounds. As well as the WR250/450F We get the WR250R here, does the US? Helps with sourcing the options.

I will see if I can get P/N's etc from old work if you want, we documented it all for the parts dept' . I doubt the options are specific to NZ, surely?

Part numbers would probably help someone if you can find them. WR250R ships here, too.

ALAS ITS FIXED!!!! I reverse bleed my front brakes and they feel rock solid and perfect. I tried vacuum bleeding and tradition for hours upon hours and nothing worked. They were mushy and useless. Finally I c clamped my calipers all the way in and hooked up a hose and a syringe to my bleeder nipple. I opened up my reservoir and hung a bucket from my handle bar under the reservoir. I filled the syringe all the way and as I put it on the nipple I made sure no air was in the line and kept a slow bleed drizzle going to make sure air would stay out as i attached the line to the nipple. Then I used a zip tie around the nipple and line to make sure the line was tight. Then I opened the nipple and squeezed brake fluid up my system until I used all 100 cc of fluid in the syringe. Brake fluid over flowed out my reservoir and so did a few bubbles I thought could have never been in there. Then I said here goes nothing, I put my caliber back on my forks and pumped the brakes, BOOOM perfect brake feel, I love my life.

back bled it with a 60cc syringe. not really much better. I was careful so I think I got the air out but I would hardly say it's rock hard. it's somewhat firm but then when you squeeze the lever still moves. My other bikes are similar with one being quite a bit better. I put in new pads but again not much difference. haven't ridden it yet so we'll see how it goes. Eventually I'll get a braided brake line.

How does ziptying the front brake lever to the bar overnight help? I have heard of this before but in my mind I am not putting together how this would solve anything...

Edited by Wiz636

well it didn't work for me so who knows. maybe it somehow gets trapped air up into the master?

OK, I think I've headed into the YZ brake twilight zone. After reverse bleeding things were a bit better but not as good as my 01 250. I had remembered reading a review on the Sunline lever I'm using and someone said they hated it cause it made the brakes mushy. I had good luck or so I thought with my Sunline on my 03 450. I had swapped my 03 master onto the 10 450 with the sunline. well, my brakes on my 03 were decent - at least I had no complaints - felt reasonably firm, not any worse than with the stock lever. So I decided to try a stock lever off the 01 250 which felt pretty good. Instantly, my 10 brakes are very good. Some springiness but good for stock. I put the sunline on the 01 and what was very good became very spongy. Go figure. After looking at the sunline it doesn't seem to come out as far as stock so it doesn't actuated the master as quickly. why was it ok on my 03? so now my brake feels good but I'll probably tip over and snap my lever or master. I don't dare put my 10 master cylinder back on. well at least not until after I ride it this way at least once. thanks for all the suggestions

Alright here's what I just did that may have cured the spongy feeling. Like all of you I was disappointed and bleeding the brakes and getting nowhere. I hated the idea of putting Honda parts on my bike. On the last ride I was complaining to my KTM riding friends about it. One grabbed my lever and said "it's just like the KTM brake, it's fine." Another recommended pulling the brake lever and putting a strap around the brake lever and grip to keep pressure on it overnight. I had mine strapped for about 36 hours, but now it's rock solid. I can't believe the difference. Try it before buying unnecessary parts. I'll update with how long it lasts, but right now I'm amazed at the difference.

It's been almost a month and a half since clamping my front brake lever to the bars overnight and I can report the front brake is still solid and works great. No complaints from me.

How does ziptying the front brake lever to the bar overnight help? I have heard of this before but in my mind I am not putting together how this would solve anything...

A lot of the time, where people have employed typical squeeze-and-bleed methods, an air bubble will take up semi-permanent residence in the banjo bolt at the top of the brake line. Fluid will flow right around this bubble without dislodging it. Conventional methods that draw fluid from the top down don't work very well, because any progress that the air makes in going down the line is reversed when the bleeder is closed to reload the master cylinder. Applying pressure to the lever does two things to the bubble; moves it down the line a little, and compresses it into a smaller space. When the lever is tied down in that position, it gives the bubble time to rise back to the top again, especially if the bars are turned so that the master cylinder bore is angled upward from the banjo bolt. If it does rise, and the pressure is then released from the lever, the bubble may roll backward through the fitting with the returning fluid before it gets a chance to expand and "stick" again.

At least, that's the theory. I have never found the method to be necessary. The brake fluid at either end can be purged of air without that, and with no special tools.

Finally rode it and the brakes are good. I put Renthal pads in because I couldn't get to the Honda dealer and wanted to replace them ASAP. Lever is nice and firm and the bike stops fine although the track was soft and thus slower than usual so I didn't use the brakes that hard.

Going off of what gray racer said that is very true. The only way i ever successfully have bleed front brakes is with reverse bleeding them. I have a syringe with a vinyl line that i fit on the bleed nipple being careful not to get any air in the line. I hang a bucket on the handle bars and i open the reservoir and nipple and squeeze the syringe. I squeeze about 100cc of fluid up typically. That is the only way i have ever had good front brakes that stop at a finger tap. Ive been doing that ever since i had a problem on my very first 98 kx125

Going off of what gray racer said that is very true. The only way i ever successfully have bleed front brakes is with reverse bleeding them. I have a syringe with a vinyl line that i fit on the bleed nipple being careful not to get any air in the line. I hang a bucket on the handle bars and i open the reservoir and nipple and squeeze the syringe. I squeeze about 100cc of fluid up typically. That is the only way i have ever had good front brakes that stop at a finger tap. Ive been doing that ever since i had a problem on my very first 98 kx125

that awkward moment when you realize your an idiot and already posted on this issue

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