Grey wire help! Please

I have a WR450 2008. I planned to do the free mods only to find the AIS removed and blanked, the baffle removed from the exhaust and a throttle stop screw approx 30mm long in the bag of spares I got when I bought the bike second hand. So, I checked and can see the grey wire is still attached . If I disconnect the grey wire do you think I will need to re jet etc or do you think I can take a chance and figure it's been done by superior powers of deduction? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

pull that thing now.

The gray wire does not affect fuel/air mixture, only the ignition timing curve.

Thanks Guys. I'll pull it and let you know how it goes!

Pulled the grey wire. Can't say I noticed any thing significant. So I'll take that as a good thing and trust everyone's good advice.

Thanks gus

Pulled the grey wire. Can't say I noticed any thing significant. So I'll take that as a good thing and trust everyone's good advice.

Thanks gus

I appreciate the feedback.  I've been debating whether to disconnect the grey wire on my bike, but it runs great as it is so I haven't bothered to mess with it.  Now I might never pull it.

I'm probably not ridding hard enough yet to notice the difference. I'm sure those that do can appreciate the advantages better than I can. Anyway it's off and there' s no need to reconnect it. It's a matter of choice.

I have and 07 wr450. That I put the yz450 carb kit on. It gets rid of the grey wire and if yours has it all the smog stuff on it.. Kit comes with everything new jets/seals. Now it runs great and is a lot more responsive

stupid question probably, but does pulling the gray wire help keep the engine running while i powerslide the rear in turns.  my '09 450 will stall even when i pull the clutch in and lock up the rear brake....killed me in my last enduro race...

stupid question probably, but does pulling the gray wire help keep the engine running while i powerslide the rear in turns.  my '09 450 will stall even when i pull the clutch in and lock up the rear brake....killed me in my last enduro race...

 

 

That's because all WR clutches drag. 

You can fix your clutch drag, or just change your riding style...

Don't ride it like a KTM (heavy rear brake to turn with the rear wheel).

I have a on/off switch connected to my handlebars routed to the grey wire. When on YZ mode it has more power at higher revs but tends to choke off when rock crawling in first gear. That's when I swith it to WR mode it goes like a tracktor without stalling so easily but as I hit the straights the power fades quicker into the revs. You really have to be in 'race' mode and give it full throttle to feel the YZ power above the WR power. I just flick the swith on the go and can't realy say I can feel an adjustment in the cdi mapping change-over. Best of both worlds.

Alex

I have a on/off switch connected to my handlebars routed to the grey wire. When on YZ mode it has more power at higher revs but tends to choke off when rock crawling in first gear. That's when I swith it to WR mode it goes like a tracktor without stalling so easily but as I hit the straights the power fades quicker into the revs. You really have to be in 'race' mode and give it full throttle to feel the YZ power above the WR power. I just flick the swith on the go and can't realy say I can feel an adjustment in the cdi mapping change-over. Best of both worlds.

Alex

Cool idea!!

Until your jetting is correct, and your TPS is adjusted correctly, you will not feel the gray wire change.

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