I"m in.....

Did you replace both cams or just the exhaust cam?

Did you replace both cams or just the exhaust cam?

Both

The new OEM valves and gaskets came today, as did the thread-in hand-guard inserts and the H4-HID lamp/ballast for the headlight.

HIDbulbandballast_200x200_zpscc67777f.jpginserts_zps9575fc9e.jpgdscn1911_zps99732020.jpg

Krannie, Where can I get those thread in hand guard inserts? They are exactly what I'm looking for! Thanks!

Pro Moto billet also lnown as Fastway.

Got a set sitting on my bench just waiting to go in.

Krannie, Where can I get those thread in hand guard inserts? They are exactly what I'm looking for! Thanks!

As JDL said, Promoto Billet/Fastway.

There are several companies that make Nylon ones too.

Oh, and I cheated.

Those are YZ250F parts shown there......

Don't those springs look a little small to you.....?

If the piston really is that small, then odds on the cylinder is gonna be oversize (and you've already noted the marks where the rings stop at TDC & BDC) so a hone will do nothing to improve the clearance issue, and you need a re-plate and hone back into service limits

All of the cross hatching is still visible, everywhere.

Me like em build threads ! :thumbsup:

OK, the wrong valve springs came, so while I wait for those, it's time to re-grease the pivoty-stuff....

100_48181_zpsd2bcc2ea.jpg100_4816_zpsc1b6a148.jpg100_4819_zps401f2a86.jpg

Any tricks to getting out the swing arm axle that goes thru the frame? Mine would not budge and I did not want to ruin the threads on the end.

Thanks.

Any tricks to getting out the swing arm axle that goes thru the frame? Mine would not budge and I did not want to ruin the threads on the end.

Thanks.

If you have never removed it before, it might be tough to get out, with all that corrosion.

I always re-grease everything when I buy it, new or used, so I don't usually have a problem.

Unfortunately, brute force and a torch might be your only solution.

Double nut the end of the swingarm axle before pounding on it.

Thanks for the info. will try the double nut. good idea.

Also, using a good penetrating oil the night before removal might help loosen things up. I prefer PB Blaster.

Also, using a good penetrating oil the night before removal might help loosen things up. I prefer PB Blaster.

Oh yeah, that stuff is good. Don't get it on paint or your hands. It will melt a finger....

Cylinder is ready to go....CYL002_zps4c7185b0.jpg

Re-sprung and Re-valved forks, with full covers

forks_zpsf3ffa6a8.jpg

Tension er

CYL003_zpsbd03d269.jpg

Head, after glass beading and before seat grinding

CYL006_zps4d2190a2.jpg

New piston, rings, wristpin

CYL004_zps5cd33bca.jpg

Edited by Krannie

Well, not good news.

The oil that was drained from the crankcase was highly contiminated, very low on oil, and full of metal...........

We got less than 17oz of oil from the motor........

This would explain A LOT about the pre-mature wear of the piston, the near-siezing of the wrist pin, and the very stiff shifting.

Hopefully , the crank, shift drum and shift forks are not in too bad of shape.

:thumbsdn:

shavings_zpse3e928fb.jpg

What an A** hole...........

Obviously maintained by a blind paraplegic...

Ooooh, the 2007 YZ suspension is now installed. Re-sprung (6.4/.49) and re-valved (AS Racing).

wr001_zpse5f38dac.jpg

The skid plate was removed so the timing chain could be accessed, and replaced; then the motor goes back together.

YZ fork with the very trick triple clamps!

wr004_zps8b082c29.jpg

Diverse Racing rear spring

wr002_zps6f6af63b.jpg

Oh, and the part I kind of forgot about since I bought the bike: Tagasako Excel Pro hubs, and Exel HD spokes, front and rear (they need a bath, huh...)

wr003_zpsc39f6ff9.jpg

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